Until my recent meal at an astoundingly good Greek restaurant in NY, I wasn't sure I knew how good Greek food could be. I've been disappointed in meal after meal in Chicago's Greektown places, so I was thrilled when that little place in Astoria, Queens showed me the light of fresh, pungent, exciting Greek flavor. So it was with enthusiasm, after having read such wonderful praise here and in the Chicago Reader, that I entered this evening's meal at Taxim. When I left, my enthusiasm balloon had pretty much completely deflated. Taxim bored me to tears.

The roast chicken was like something one might find in a French bistro. Crisp skin, decent chickenny flavor, just a little overcooked - not as bad as most places. But where o where was that wonderful, burst-in-your-mouth Greek flavor I had in Astoria? Where were the strong garlic, bright lemon, and earthy oregano flavors? Where was that mix of flavors so fresh, exciting and strong that you're amazed at how even through their intensity they can balance each other out so well? Taxim's $24 roast chicken was just plain boring. Is this really what Greek food is supposed to be?

We also ordered the Revithia, and as soon as we did, our server said, "OK, you'd like the hummus?" Why do they bother with the gimmick of using authentic sounding Greek names for dishes if their going to correct you when you use those names? The hummus was good. It had some especially outstanding olive oil - pungent, green-tasting, and pleasantly bitter with a hint of fruit. The olive oil was so good, in fact, that other flavors were pretty much completely lost. Except salt. There was plenty of salt.

With the "hummus" we ordered a bowl of Faki. "Oh, the lentils? OK, coming right up." Nicely cooked lentils served with "barrel-fermented sheeps feta" that tasted like, well, feta, and an undetectable balsamic reduction. This dish tasted just like the hummus: excellent olive oil.

For dessert, I was thrilled to see the exotic-sounding orchid root ice cream, and when I ordered it, the server said "I'd actually recommend against that." When I asked her why, she said something about it not being like regular ice cream - very floral and kinda chewy, or something like that. Sounds good to me, I'll give it a try anyway, and I promise not to blame you if I don't like it. Then the truth came out: they were out of the ice cream. So we ordered a dessert I'd never heard of, with a Greek name I had trouble pronouncing - it was described on the menu as having pistacchio, walnuts, honey, and other ingredients. "Oh, the baklava," our server said. It arrived, and I determined that the finely ground "baklava" at Taxim would make a fine potting soil.

I'll take the "hummus," "baklava," "lentils," and chicken from about 12 places I can easily think of offhand before I consider returning to Taxim.

Kennyz wrote:Until my recent meal at an astoundingly good Greek restaurant in NY, I wasn't sure I knew how good Greek food could be. I've been disappointed in meal after meal in Chicago's Greektown places, so I was thrilled when showed me the light of fresh, pungent, exciting Greek flavor.

Kenny,

Along with dampening my interest in Taxim your nicely detailed post has me curious about "that little place in Astoria, Queens" I have no immediate plans to visit Queens, but would like the name as an additional arrow in the quiver for future use.

Thanks,
Gary

G Wiv wrote:

Kennyz wrote:Until my recent meal at an astoundingly good Greek restaurant in NY, I wasn't sure I knew how good Greek food could be. I've been disappointed in meal after meal in Chicago's Greektown places, so I was thrilled when that little place in Astoria, Queens showed me the light of fresh, pungent, exciting Greek flavor.

Kenny,

Along with dampening my interest in Taxim your nicely detailed post has me curious about "that little place in Astoria, Queens" I have no immediate plans to visit Queens, but would like the name as an additional arrow in the quiver for future use.

Thanks,
Gary

Taverna Kyclades (discussed a bit this thread)
33-07 Ditmars Blvd.
Astoria, NY

Kennyz wrote:Until my recent meal at an astoundingly good Greek restaurant in NY, I wasn't sure I knew how good Greek food could be. I've been disappointed in meal after meal in Chicago's Greektown places, so I was thrilled when that little place in Astoria, Queens showed me the light of fresh, pungent, exciting Greek flavor.

Interesting that you say this because I had the same experience about 10 years ago. Someone turned me on to an amazing Greek seafood restaurant in Astoria called Elias Corner. This is the quintessential GNR if there ever was one. They don't take reservations and they don't have a menu. There is generally a line outside the door to get in (at the time, I thought it was a long line. Hot Doug's has taught me otherwise). When you finally get in, you walk past a large refrigerated case, much like what you'd see at the grocery store. In the case are a variety of whole fish, a few types of fillets, and perhaps some seafood kebobs. I understand that they get fresh fish every day from the Fulton Fish Market. As far as I can tell, just about every dish is grilled (though, since there aren't menus, I'm not entirely sure I know everything they serve) and everything is served family style. I generally had whole roasted fish and a grilled zuccini, eggplant, or other vegetables. I would describe each dish exactly as Kennyz did, fresh and exciting. The fish was always cooked perfectly - crispy skin and tender meat. The only adornments on a plate would be some lemon slices; each table has salt, pepper, and a bottle of olive oil. They also have a large outdoor seating area.

Another place I liked is Stamatis, which is a few blocks from Elias. Stamatis has a wider variety of offerings - not just seafood. Both of these places struck me as so different (and much better) than the Greek food I was used to in Chicago. While I'm certainly no expert on Greek cuisine, the differences between these places and the big places in Chicago weren't the type of foods, but the quality and execution.

Another note for travelers: Astoria is very close to LaGuardia airport. Google maps reports that the drive from LaGuardia to Elias Corner should take 5 minutes (up to 10 minutes in traffic, which could be a large underestimate).

Elias Corner
24-02 31st St., Queens, NY 11102
718-932-1510

Stamatis Restaurant
2909 23RD Ave
Astoria, NY 11105-2709
(718) 932-8596

Astoria is the center of Greece outside Greece. My college roommate was Greek, and back in the day, her Dad operated this fantastic hole-in-the-wall gyros stand in a flea market in NJ. Anyhow, my visits to her in summer breaks included, on many occasions, side trips to Astoria. You could eat very well there.

Going to Taxim tonight and still looking forward to it. I respect Kenny's opinion immensely but he's the only person I know of who's had any serious complaints, so I'm hoping he caught their worst server, on a bad night.

=R=

It's one of the best openings of the year. You won't be disappointed. Anyone staying away because of one post, no matter how savvy the one poster, is depriving themselves... of at least the chance to weigh in for themselves.

Ronnie:

Skip the duck gyro and the chicken; go with the lamb or fish.

Actually, I plan on doing just mezes the next time I'm there, given that they were the highlight of the meal.

chezbrad wrote:Ronnie:

Skip the duck gyro and the chicken; go with the lamb or fish.

Actually, I plan on doing just mezes the next time I'm there, given that they were the highlight of the meal.

Thanks, for the guidance. It's much appreciated.

=R=

I was there last month for dinner and while we enjoyed our apps (the fava beans w/lamb were the favorite of the table) we were slightly disappointed with our mains. The whole roasted sea bass was fairly bland and even worse, the waiter did a poor job in filleting it. Bones throughout. This is something I normally would do myself, but as I wasn't @ the table when it was served (bad move, serving hot food to an empty chair, a pet peeve of mine) my dining companions opted for him to do it. This is the same guy that had argued with me as to what I'd ordered earlier, which was the eggplant puree (excellent) as opposed to the grilled eggplant (near dismal). I'd pointed to it on the menu. He mistakenly gave us the grilled first, and when I pointed it out, let's just say he won't be winning any Miss Congeniality awards. As for the duck gyros, one of the main reasons I wanted to go there, we found it to be a fairly small portion, one gyros cut in 1/3 for $21 with the pomegranate sauce described elegantly by my sister as "sweet and gloppy".

While I'd go back, it certainly wasn't a revelation and must say, I've probably enjoyed a couple Greek meals shared w/Ronnie Suburban (Keith's country cousin) @ least as much if not more. A few new things? Yes. When they were good, they were very good. But my overall impression factoring in service and the two mains we ordered, I'd say worth a try but good-decent.

I had dinner with some friends and I kept meaning to post my thoughts, but... at any rate, we were generally happy but I don't know if I would be in a hurry to go back.

We were amazed at the Revithia because, as Kennyz said, the olive oil used was incredible. Unfortunately, we got a relatively small amount of bread for the amount served. We asked for more and only when we got the bill, found out there was a $2 charge for additional bread (as someone else experienced upthread). Not that $2 is significant in a place with $20 entrees and you're splitting it 3-ways, but... I don't know, it bugs me when the restaurant doesn't give you enough bread to actually enjoy the dish in the first place.

The lamb shanks were incredible, I thought. One of the only times in my recent memory when my lamb really tasted of, well, lamb, and not just 'kinda/sorta like beef not quite'. The mixed grill of lamb I had at the Publican a few months back is the only comparable dish, I think, in terms of lamb flavor.

The room itself is gorgeous -- I can't imagine how much work it took to transform it from the former Big Horse space. My party of 3, though, was sat at a 2-top even though the restaurant was hardly full. That I don't mind as much as this particular 2-top was adjacent to a structural post. It's annoying to look to your dining companion on the right and instead see a huge white post. We just moved the table a bit and it was fine, but still... I was a little put off (fwiw, I know we could have said something to our hostess, but, well, we're not ones to do that, what can I say?). Our server also went MIA towards the end of the meal, but my friends and I weren't really in a rush to leave and we didn't mind.

I understand why many people like the room, but when I took a look at the full wall of banquette seatings with throw pillows on a hard bench, my primary thought was "looks uncomfortable". Gentleman that I am not, I took a regular chair which was fine, but my companion confirmed that the banquette felt the way it looked.

We enjoyed our meal at Taxim last Friday but I cannot say that I found it particularly exciting. Certainly, nothing was bad but nothing blew me away, either. I will posit that several rounds at The Violet Hour before our meal probably dinged my ability to appreciate some of the nuances. Still, there was a lot to enjoy about our dinner.

It was very dark at our table, so shooting without a flash was fairly challenging (thanks, to the lovely REB for being such a great candle holder) but what follows are some pics of our meal, tagged with descriptions lifted directly off the menu . . .


Revithia - Pureed chickpeas with garlic, lemon and sauteed fresh green chickpeas
Just as Kenny described above, we ordered this and our server replied by saying 'ok, the hummus.' I enjoyed the dish but didn't find it revelatory, in spite of the inclusion of fresh chickpeas. I wished the entire dish had been made from fresh chickpeas because that would have been a completely new variation for me. With this dish and a few others, I'd hoped for something a little more distinctive with the pita. This seemed like pretty standard, store-bought stuff and it didn't seem to have been grilled, griddled, toasted or prepared in any other way than being sliced into wedges and placed on the plate.



Melitzanosalata - Charcoal-roasted eggplant with tahini and pine nuts
To me, this was essentially babaganoush, especially because of the noticably smokey flavor, and the inclusion of tahini. It was tasty and I enjoyed the subtle crunch provided by the pine nuts.



Koukia Me Kavourma - Fresh whole fava beans with lamb confit and house-made yogurt
Definitely my favorite of the first round and also the favorite of our table, overall. I loved the tender favas and the fatty, slighly-crispy crumbles of lamb atop it. The tangyness of the yogurt tied everything together quite nicely.



Bamies Laderes - Baby okra with sun-dried tomatoes, fresh coriander and olive oil
Clean flavors here and the okra was tender without being slimy at all. Very nicely prepared.



Kebap Batsikisio Me Pilafi Krokos Kozanis - Minced goat kebap with Greek saffron basmati pilaf, sheep's milk butter and house-made yogurt
Here was a case where I couldn't discern that I was eating goat. It very well could have been lamb. It was a very manipulated dish (not that I don't appreciate that, because I really do) and, as such, the goat was obscured a bit. Also, while I found Taxim an overall decent value, this dish seemed somewhat overpriced at $20.



Tsipoura Me Radikia - Oven-roasted whole Cretan sea bream with lemon, olive oil and dandelion salad
Fresh, nicely cooked with moist, tender flesh but fairly unexciting. Our server filleted this at the table and warned us to check for bones. There were a few. I appreciate that after filleting it, we were left the head (which I think one person in our party requested).



Duck Gryos - Spit-roasted duck marinated with pastourma spices with yogurt sauce Pontian satz bread and cucumber salad
To me, this was not really gyros, mainly because it possessed the pastourma spices; a completely different seasoning set than what is typically found in gyros. This was more of a duck fajita wrap, with those spices from the sweeter side of the spectrum. I enjoyed it but thought that the meat was a little on the tough/dry side, even though you can see in the picture that it does not appear to be overcooked.



Yemista Me Pligouri - Braised, goat-stuffed baby zucchini and eggplant with bulgur wheat pilaf, barberries, pomegranate reduction and house-made yogurt
Definitely my favorite entree. I thought the meat and roasted eggplant complemented each other very well (didn't try the zucchini side). I really enjoyed the light earthiness of the tender bulgur, too.



Arnaki Me Kapnisto Pligouri - Lamb shank braised in white wine with smoked green cracked wheat, toasted almonds and fennel salad
Tender, flavorful and moist lamb, which was interestingly seasoned. I think the white wine played a part in the distinctive flavor of this dish. But, while I appreciated the flavors and the fact that it wasn't drowning in a pool of sauce, I wished for maybe a bit more sauce.



Boughatsa - Thessaloniki classic custard, phyllo pastry, lemon and powdered sugar
I really enjoyed this dish. The phyllo was crispy, buttery and delicious. The custard inside was rich and satisfying. Our server advised us to squeeze the lemon over the entire dish, which imparted a pleasant, acidic note.



Greek Yogurt - House-made Greek-style yogurt with Peloponnnese fir tree honey and walnuts
Wonderfully tangy, rich and creamy. I really enjoyed this yogurt but maybe wished for a bit more honey. Still, in spite of the fact that we'd seen this yogurt several times thoughout our meal, it was great to have it showcased in such an unadorned state to finish our meal.

I'm not entirely sure what to think of Taxim. It certainly didn't exceed my expectations but still, I appreciate what they're doing. It was a bit of a crazy scene at our table (loud, dark, many plates arriving at once) and I'm not sure that I was able to give the dishes the undivided attention they deserved. That's often how it goes when I am eating somewhere for the first time. I am a big fan of Greektown (the opposite side of the dining universe from Taxim) and have learned over the years how to order for maximum satisfaction when I'm in that part of town. What I'm used to with Greek food is gigantic bold flavors, immaculate freshness and not a hint of daintiness. When I was in Seattle last year, I had a really great meal at Lola (Tom Douglas' contemporary Greek cafe), so I know I can appreciate this cuisine on a more refined basis. But upon first glance, perhaps Taxim is too distilled for me.

The main thing is this: I want to go back, but not for dinner on a Friday. Instead, maybe for an early dinner on a weeknight or a late afternoon nosh. I get the feeling that there's more here than I got a sense of the first time around. I'd like to give Taxim more careful consideration because there's a clearly a creative thoughtfulness driving it. It's just that my first and only meal here so far wasn't quite enough to access it.

=R=

Taxim
1558 N Milwaukee Ave
Chicago, IL 60622-2008
(773) 252-1558

Just to follow up on my own post, I had a pre-concert dinner at Greek Islands last night and dish over dish, I think the meal exemplified where Taxim still has a ways to go. Whole-roasted Mediterranean sea bass at GI was superior to Taxim's Cretan bream in just about every way. The flesh was moister, the skin was crispy, and the rich olive oil and heady Greek oregano with which it was dressed sent it to another level. I could smell how great it was going to be before I even tasted it. On the minimally-prepared fish/seafood front, grilled Octopus was, as usual, brilliant in its simplicity -- tender with crispy charred edges and a perfectly balanced 'sauce' of olive oil and vinegar on the plate. Grilled, 2-bone lamb chops were utterly phenomenal. They were juicy, fatty, tender, and cooked perfectly. I've never been to Greece but I imagine that simple preparations like these are common there and I cannot imagine any restaurant kitchen, no matter how skilled or inspired, improving upon them.

Cold dips like skordalia and taramosalata delivered bold, intense flavors that were utterly compelling and which, for me, easily trumped the revithia and melitzanosalata at Taxim. Roasted red peppers (served cold) were fantastic, with a pronounced sweetness and a satisfying hit of light acidity. Cold salad of giant lima beans was perfectly executed -- the beans were tender but not mushy and the vinaigrette in which they were dressed highlighted them without obscuring them. Revithosoupa was fantastic. It was loaded with tender chickpeas and intensely flavored with fresh dill and lemon. Breads served with these dishes were excellent, especially compared to the perfuntory pita we received at Taxim.

I don't want to derail the thread any further but I wanted to respond a bit to some posts upthread which lamented the state of Greek food in Chicago and which hoped that Taxim would be the driving force to 'deliver' us to the elusive promised land. Of course, Taxim's laudable mission is not the same at Greek Islands' mission but the state of Greek food in Chicago is hardly lamentable. And I think it's clear that in a city this size, there's room for myriad levels and variations of Greek cuisine. I hope that Taxim continues down its chosen path and distinguishes itself as a temple of great food, and a dining destination. But to dismiss Greektown restaurants by default, for whatever reason, seems more than a bit short-sighted to me.

=R=

So I went to Taxim for lunch the other day with an LTHer (who can chime in if he wants) and it was interesting that we came down again on the same two sides of the divide as this thread. What I found the subtle complexity of down to earth Greek ingredients, he found boring next to the mouth fireworks of Greektown. What's odd about that is that we're each usually a bit toward the other camp-- he's big on the quality of underlying local ingredients, I'm more likely to ding a place for failing to put enough pizzazz into a dish. But in this case he was the one underwhelmed as I often am, and I was the one admiring the simplicity of earthy cooked lentils and bits of tart Greek cheese, say.

I joked to another food writer that as Greek restaurants go, Taxim was the best Turkish restaurant in town. I think that's not so much a joke because chef David Schneider frankly admits the strong Turkish influence (not to mention that Taxim is a district in Istanbul), or the hearkening back to a pre-French-influenced Greek cuisine more like other Mediterranean cuisines. I've always liked Turkish cuisine, but part of what I like about it is that it is mostly comfort food, it's not aiming for the spice of other cuisines even in the nearby middle east (not to mention a little to the east like Indian). A really good Turkish dish is usually just simple and clean-tasting-- like the spinach and yogurt dish at Cafe Orchid-- and I find that really satisfying; I loved the "hummus," for instance, with its flavors of fresh chickpeas and bright, good quality olive oil, and found both it and the pita a cut above the norm. But if you're expecting your dish to come flaming to your table, either actually or metaphorically, Taxim is going to seem muted and quite possibly dull by comparison.

Just dined at Taxim last night for the first time and had a really positive experience. I understand the remarks about some more muted flavors, comparably, but the earthiness and freshness of the vegetables packs its own punch. I especially enjoyed the fresh favas and yogurt, if the lamb confit was slightly sparse for my taste. Delicate and soulful is how I'd describe the experience. And, nice wine offerings for a summer meal.

Darren72 wrote:

Kennyz wrote:Until my recent meal at an astoundingly good Greek restaurant in NY, I wasn't sure I knew how good Greek food could be. I've been disappointed in meal after meal in Chicago's Greektown places, so I was thrilled when that little place in Astoria, Queens showed me the light of fresh, pungent, exciting Greek flavor.

Interesting that you say this because I had the same experience about 10 years ago. Someone turned me on to an amazing Greek seafood restaurant in Astoria called Elias Corner.

* * *

Elias Corner
24-02 31st St., Queens, NY 11102
718-932-1510

* * *

[NB, maybe this branch of the thread/digression should be moved to Beyond, but I post here as my comments are responsive, concurring, and an update to something already here....]

Ate at Elias' Corner the other day before a LaGuardia flight. It was my kind of place, because eating a whole fish with a glass of beer is my idea of heaven (I was in heaven earlier this year when I had a huachinango sarandeado binge in Nayarit). It was full but no line for Sunday dinner. Service was haphazard and some sides were forgotten. Whole fishes were as descibed above. No menu, no prices. As this was a couple of nights ago, here's what I heard as the menu, which I transcribe for posterity:

Fish, grilled or battered/fried:
Sardines, porgy (2 types, local Atlantic and Greek), red snapper, monkfish, smelts/whitebait, Greek branzino/seabass

Other "protein":
Octopus, mussels, saganaki, loukanika

Vegetables:
Fried zucchini, horta, Greek salad.

Quirky place. Our server, Georgia, explained they do nothing that needs to be, in her words, "cooked." They have a grill and a deep fryer. Indeed, the saganaki is deep fried, which actually turns out pretty well. The horta, which I love and ordered, did not show up, so I have no clue how it might be prepared. I suspect they must keep a pot around somewhere for the horta and the mussels, though I suppose the mussels could be grilled. Why sausage? Who knows. The Greek salad was a poor effort. No anchovies and seriously lousy tomatoes. The fish was abundant, fresh, and perfectly grilled. I had a massive mound of sardines (probably 8 palm-length critters) for less than 20 bucks. The focus is obviousy on the fin fish. I really liked the place and some of the bakeries I visited in the 'hood.

I do not agree that similar quality Greek seafood is unavailable in Chicago. I've had terrific grilled fish at more than one Greektown spot. Much of it comes to Halsted the same way fish gets to Astoria Blvd., on a plane from Europe. But I'd guess the experience in Astoria, particularly Elias, is much more consistent. Eating Greek there is akin to eating Mexican in Pilsen. It's not Greek food, it's neighborhood food. The lack of destination-dining touristness makes it sort of a different thing. Greektown is like eating at a tourist place on the beach in Greece, which can be prefectly delicious. But it's not the same experience.

I really enjoyed Astoria and nearby Jackson Heights, two spots where I had not previously spent much time. Both places reminded me very much of the Chicago neighborhoods that typically are home to GNRs, right down to the L overhead. Much better luck there than in Manhattan this time around. (A sad aside: I have now confirmed through multiple tries that long-time favorite Katz's has pretty midding soups (Manny's are much better), mediocre chopped liver (don't get me wrong, Manny's isn't great, and Langer's in LA is awful, but several in Chicago and NY are tons better), subpar bread (about as good as Manny's(!) this trip, which ain't too good, and well behind Langer's), and pastrami that, while still very good was not nearly what it used to be and, IMO so far behind Langer's it isn't close. I'd love for all of these legendary places to do a good job with the basics, at least. They don't. I have not been, but I'd bet Kenny & Zukes blows them all away. I'll still go to all of them.)

Full disclosure: Taxim chef and owner David Schneider is a friend. Gosh, I am freakin' lucky...

Dr. K wrote:First, let me say that I love Greektown. But it is phenomenon unto itself -- the 'Saganaki Experience' --not a representation of Greek cuisine today. When I've taken friends from Greece to Halsted Street, it feels like a time-warp to them -- the way a 50's cafeteria still serving Salisbury steak and jello might seem to us. It is surprising to me that given the evolution of Greek cooking across the US, exemplified by high-profile chefs like Michael Psilakis, Jimmy Botascos and Kat Cora, that Chicago is stuck in a rut.

I basically agree with Dr. K's comments in this thread. Never have I been excited by Greek food in Chicago, even when the cooking is competent. It's the same kind of Greek food I knew growing up in Montreal--very 1950s cafeteria "Salisbury steak and jello." I've been fortunate to eat in the homes of Greek friends over the years but have never really been taken by the cuisine...until Taxim. (I've not been to Greece.)

David invited me to come in for dinner last night because the restaurant is between summer and fall menus, and they're offering some new dishes. On a quiet Monday night, he sent out a banquet for me and my dining companion. Lighting was tough, and there was so much food--almost no room for picture-taking, unfortunately. It's very possible that I'm forgetting some dishes, but I think this is most of what we ate:

Pantzária me skordaliá (roasted red and chioggia beets, with beet greens, walnut garlic puree) - I hesitated to get this because my dining companion wasn't a beet person, and I have beet fatigue, but David insisted we try it, even if just for the greens. And the greens were spectacular. I've never experienced greens that were clearly cooked but so barely wilted so as to maintain textural integrity. The greens were so lovely that my dining companion even went on to eat the actual beets, granted just the lighter ones (less beety), which were delicious. The entire dish was very lightly dressed, which I appreciated, though I had a hard time detecting walnut or garlic. It was more of just an olive oil dressing, which wasn't a bad thing at all.

Bámes laderés (baby okra, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh coriander, olive oil, semolina bread) - I'm glad David has kept this dish on the menu. It's a simple, satisfying plate, with the okra front and center, no sliminess and served last night at the perfect temperature--soothingly warm.

Kolokithokeftédes me Polítiki saláta (butternut squash, pumpkin and sesame rissoles, yogurt garlic sauce, savoy cabbage salad, roasted pumpkin seeds) - This is a rock star dish and was one of my vegetarian dining companion's favorites. I also have some squash fatigue these days, but the synthesis of the butternut squash and pumpkin was new and surprising to me. The sesame and peppery kick put this dish over the top. I liked also that the cabbage wasn't an afterthought. Again, I think David and the Taxim team are just really respectful of and excel when it comes leafy vegetables.

Melitzánes tiganités (sauteed heirloom eggplants, house-made yogurt, garlic, dried mint) - I love Taxim's yogurt. This dish was otherwise unexceptional, just, as David said, "a nice little snack."

Prassópita (wild leek, fresh dill, goat feta, house-made phyllo) - Taxim also really excels when it comes to phyllo. I don't know how to explain further except that their phyllo seems to have personality in the way that phyllo I've had elsewhere has not--delicate with crunch in strategic places. This dish has a lot of potential, though the leeks were way, way over-salted. David agreed.

Turlú (oven-roasted potatoes, zucchini, eggplant, plum tomatoes, sheep's feta, semolina bread) - This dish, too, was over-salted and nothing special. I wish the potatoes were cut a little thicker, perhaps to help cut the taste of salt.

Htapodáki (wood-grilled octopus, fennel root and tropea onions) - This is the best grilled octopus I've had anywhere--nice cuts, light on the char. Tossed with the fennel and tropea, this dish is brilliant, reason #1 for why I don't ever need to eat octopus in Greektown again and solid proof that David is working in his own league in Chicago.

Lagós stifádo (braised rabbit leg, oven-roasted shallots, parsley and celery root, parsnips, baby carrots) - I got this dish by accident, had meant to get the new rack of lamb preparation, but it turned out to be a very lucky mix-up. The rabbit was cooked perfectly (another dish that got to our table at the perfect temperature), and the root vegetables rounded out this dish beautifully. Perhaps flawless.

Yiaoúrti (house-made Greek-style yogurt, fir tree honey (?), walnuts) - I wish I could get my yogurt at home to be as good as Taxim's. I agree with ronnie_suburban that this dessert is dressed lightly, but I'm happy that there's so little honey. It's very fine honey, but more I think would detract from the exceptional richness, tang and texture of the yogurt. BTW, it may no longer be fir tree honey that's served with the yogurt. I thought that's what I heard, but I'd consumed my share of wine by this point in the meal. I don't remember clearly... It was good honey.

[b]Boughátsa (classic Thessaloníki-style custard and phyllo pastry, lemon, powdered sugar) - This dessert is competently made, just not my type of thing. The squeeze of lemon did help, but I would prefer much more lemon custard like gleam.

Dondurmás me salépi kai víssino (orchid root ice cream, mastiha, pistachios, sour cherry syrup) - Not for everyone, but I love this stuff--thick, with some pull, herbal, almost woody, very subtle sweetness. It's one of my favorite non-pastry desserts in Chicago.

New fall halva - David and crew were experimenting with a new halva last night--semolina base with a layer of Minori (?) goat cheese and topped with pistachios and grapes with verjuice. This halva has a lot of potential. The ratios didn't quite work in the first attempt last night. As we told David, there needs to be less semolina and more goat cheese. However, the grapes and amount of cardamom were just right. David also sent out some of the goat cheese separately, drizzled with honey. I'd happily have that as dessert any time.



I've been thinking a lot lately about food and geography related to local eating and the notion of terrior. One of the reasons I feel Taxim is so special is because of the strong sense of place that David imparts with his food. He's passionate about the land of Greece, which is why I think there's a unique earthiness to his food. I don't mean in flavors though I think the overall quality of his food is better because of it. It's more of a historical awareness, a grounding in family tradition, an homage to Greek and Midwestern terroir that I have very rarely seen in restaurants anywhere and nowhere else in Chicago to the same degree.

If you haven't been to Taxim, go. It's a gem.

A last-minute change in plans led me to Taxim last night. My dining companion and I left the ordering to Chef David who sent out a feast of dishes I didn't have room to enjoy on my last visit. It was another very satisfying meal. David sat down with us toward the end and talked to us at length about regionalism and the history of Greek food in the US. I highly encourage anyone who visits Taxim on a slower night when David is working the front of the house to ask him questions about the food. The ways he thinks about Greek food and culinary traditions are deeply informed by his strong grasp of world history and 15+ years of experience in home and restaurant kitchens (a lot for someone who is barely 30), and he conveys his ideas in highly intelligent and passionate ways. Here's what we ate last night:

Revíthia (pureed chickpeas, garlic, lemon, sautéed fresh green chickpeas, house-made pita)
At first I wasn't super excited about this starter, but I'd forgotten that this is the type of simple dish with which David and his team can really surprise. I'm still thinking about it this morning because it made me realize that when I eat hummos, I usually don't give much thought to the chickpeas. Hummos is a food that, if it has any nuance, is generally largely due to the ratios of garlic, lemon and tahini. Taxim's revíthia foregrounds the flavor of the chickpeas in a way I just don't experience with related dishes. I thought the texture somewhat soupy though.

Piperiés tiganités (fried padron and banana peppers, parsley, kefalograviéra cheese)
This dish was awesome. Very nice heat, silky peppers, tangy cheese.

Fasolákia me kavourmá (fresh borlotti beans, lamb confit, house-made yogurt, semolina bread)
David talked to us some about the preparation of vegetables in Greek food, how there are vegetables that are left raw, but those that are not are generally cooked for longer than one sees in western European traditions. He explained that vegetables are cooked in this way to aid digestion. Since beans are perceived (and perhaps actually) more difficult for the body to digest, they are often cooked in Greek kitchens until they are barely intact. I'm not accustomed to "overcooked" beans so the texture of this dish was too soft for me, but the dish overall was very flavorful, and I loved the texture contrasts provided by the confit and yogurt.

Kidonáki yemistó (goat-stuffed quince, house-made yogurt, toasted almonds, goat milk butter)
This was my favorite dish of the night. Mildly sweet and creamy. Each bite was a pleasure.

Duck gyro (spit-roasted duck rubbed with pastourmá spices, mint yogurt sauce, Pontian satz bread, pomegranate reduction, cucumber salad)
My dining companion and I agreed that the duck was somewhat dry, and I found it bordering on too salty, but I very much liked the density of the thicker cuts. Hearing David talk about Pontian food, I think the use of satz bread here may be brilliant.

Paidákia me pligoúri (wood-grilled rack of lamb, bulgur wheat pilaf, fresh oregano and pine nut skordaliá)
Photos of this meal are forthcoming, but this dish is one of the most beautiful things I've eaten lately. It was both refined and rustic. Even toward the end of a larger meal, looking at it made me hungry. The lamb was cooked to a nice medium-rare, but the the wonderful surprise here was the pilaf-oregano-skordaliá which included lemon peel--lovely, lovely flavors, my second favorite part of our dinner.

Chocolate semolina halvá (Ghirardelli chocolate, candied baby eggplant, almonds, Chantilly cream)
I was bummed to find out that they were out of the candied baby eggplant last night. That would have been a new candied vegetable (fruit?) for me. Instead, there was candied orange peel, which was fine though cut too large. Nothing about this dish was very special (i.e. unusual) except that it reminded me more of a moist chocolate cake than a denser, heavier halvá. I liked that we got it warm, and I enjoyed the almonds and cream.

Sargalí me stáka Krítis (rolled phyllo pastry with pistachios, walnuts, Cretan clotted cream)
This dessert was disappointing. The pastry was somewhat tough and the nut filling too dry. I wished for more cream.

Overall, our meal last night left me feeling very happy. Chef David and his team are rolling out their full fall menu this Saturday, which will include some new offaly and orchid root goodness. I can't wait.

I think this place is very, very interesting. It's also very, very soulful. It's doing something new that's also, apparently, something old. It's not inspiring in the way that temples of gastronomy are inspiring but in a way that's refreshing. Any time a young restaurateur strikes out and develops a concept that's close to his hear I can't help but feel good.

Of course, none of this would really matter if the food wasn't delicious. Thankfully, the food at Taxim is. I've not been a bit fan of my meals in Greektown. They've been fine, but more about the "Oooopahhh!" than well-executed Greek food. I think the best thing I've eaten in that part of town was a simple grilled fish. I think Taxim uses this as a starting point. There is a simplicity and rusticity to this food, but also an undercurrent of complexity and refinement. Simple cold mezze don't taste as if they've been sitting in a walk-in or cold case all day. The dip we were first served was subtly yet startlingly complex. It set the mood for a truly delicious meal.

Sardines with purslane needed a bit of acidity but the juicy purslane worked quite nicely with the oily fish. The peppers dish had some nice heat to it. Loved that. Also, thought the cheese made for a perfect, creamy tangy pairing. The stuffed quince was definitely my favorite dish of the meal. I thought it was stuffed with lamb, but it could've been goat. Like happy_stomach wrote, creamy, sweet, gamey, just delicious. New to me, but also very rustic. The beans were also new to me--the overcooking was very interesting and certainly not unpleasant, just different--and I particularly liked the tangy yogurt.

The lamb dish was another highlight. A nicely grilled rack of lamb is a good place to start. This, however, wasn't what made the dish for me. The inclusion of bits of lemon peel really elevated the dish. And the starch on the plate, bulgar pilaf in this case, wasn't just filler. This was a seriously delicious and soulful dish. I thought the duck gyro was an interesting new spin on a classic, but I, too, found the whole thing a bit dry. Flavors were good, but the duck lacked the unctuous, fattiness that might've made the dish more enjoyable.

I thought both desserts were disappointing in the context of this meal. Not that they were bad, just felt rather flat. A spiced chocolate cake isn't really halva to me. And the baklava was definitely too dry. I'm willing to believe they can do better on the sweet front.

I've not had much experience with this type of Greek food. Haven't made it to the super authentic places out in Flushing, so I've mainly had typical mid-range Greek and Michael Psilakis' take on Greek cooking which is probably just as much French or simply New American. This was a pretty eye-opening meal for me. And the place is right in my 'hood. Looking forward to learning more about Greek cuisine here in the coming months.

We were comped some stuff because happy_stomach is a friend of the house. It was a large and lengthy meal, and I'm very excited to return.

I’m probably not the best person to write up a Greek restaurant as 90% of the Greek food I’ve eaten has been made by my mother, aunts or myself. So I have very personal, nostalgic ideas of what good ___ should taste like. Plus, I don’t much like lamb. (Long story; traumatic experience in my youth…”Can you hear the lambs, Clarice?”) A Greek who doesn’t like lamb? Many have questioned my parentage over that. All of which you might want to take into account in my report on Taxim.

Thanks to happy_stomach, a group of us enjoyed a sampling of much of the Taxim menu last week. In general, I think this thread provides a pretty good picture of the Taxim experience – the current deliciousness, potential deliciousness, and some of the limitations.

I really, really like and respect what Chef David is doing. As I mentioned above, I enjoy Greektown just fine, saganaki, pastichio and all. And as stevez noted above, much of what is served in Greektown is what I ate at home. But there is so much more to Greek food and I love that Taxim is trying to give us a better sense of the range of regional Greek foods.

We had many of the same dishes described above in happy_stomach’s earlier post so I won’t comment on each dish we tried. But some highlights that I recall:

Prassopita – leeks wrapped in housemade phyllo. The filling tasted a bit peppery, just like my mom’s and the phyllo was fantastic. As someone who is struggling to get her homemade phyllo right (chronicled here), I really respect that Taxim is making their own. As others have noted, it is heartier and much more flavorful than the commercial, paper-thin phyllo many places use. (I never order spanakopita in Greektown so I don’t know the answer to this – Is anyone in Greektown making their own phyllo, other than Artopolis??

Fakes – basically, braised lentils. Very simple. I can understand why some might find them boring. But Taxim’s tasted exactly like my mom’s with the addition of the cheese. They made me very happy.

Kokoretsi – described on the menu as “Greek delicacy” they are basically grilled lamb intestines. This was special occasion holiday fare in our house. I did not try this so encourage others to chime in.

Fassoulakia me kavournia – Borlotti beans with lamb confit. Tender beans, lots of great flavors in this dish, I thought.

Manti – dumplings, fava beans, goat myzithra. I didn't much care for this dish. The dumplings were crispy on the outside but had a not too pleasing texture on the inside. And just not a lot of flavor.

There was also a southern Aegean pilaf with prawns, cuttlefish, mussels, inked basmati rice and a tomato cinnamon sauce. I didn’t try this dish, but it looked beautiful. Hopefully others will let us know how it tasted.

As others have noted above, the yogurt is amazing and is highlighted beautifully in the dessert. It is almost mousse-like in texture. Just lovely.

The orchid root ice cream as it was completely new to me, both in texture and flavor. Very woodsy. I don’t think I’ll crave it in the future, but I’m glad I tried it and had several spoonfuls.

Looking back, I recall smiling a lot during dinner at Taxim, due of course to the great company but also to what the dishes were evoking for me: a lot of wonderful, familiar flavors I’ve previously experienced mainly at family tables, but taken in some creative directions – some of which work, some of which is not so interesting. I’m looking forward to trying the rest of the menu and returning to some favorites. And if only my parents were more mobile and could visit me in Chicago, I’d definitely take them to Taxim.

Like many of the posters above, I was pleased with Taxim. I especially enjoyed the execution of several simple dishes. As with the revíthia and fakes, the melitzanosalata is very well executed: they roast the eggplants on a wood fire and achieve a beautiful smoke flavor. I'd go for these dishes alone, and to try out their flight of wines.

Our server recommended the 2006 Domaine Skouras Synoro to drink. It was a fine choice for our dinner (it's a blend of cabernet franc, merlot, and agiorgitiko), but I was mildly surprised to taste an utterly modern Greek wine. I don't know much about Greek wines, but this was smooth, fruit forward, and, well, California merlot-y. I'd certainly drink it again, but will look for a more traditional wine to pair with dinner next time.

I might note that the fasolákia I was served were green beans, as the name would indicate, and not the borlotti described on the menu. As best I can determine, the Greek equivalent of borlotti would be barbounofasola (μπαρμπουνοφάσολα), and I'd be plenty happy to have those, too.

I didn't know much about Taxim when I went last night, but I have to agree with those who saw very strong Turkish influences in the food. Overall I enjoyed all the dishes we had, but while the ingredients were high quality and fresh, the execution seemed to be a little on the safe side. There are so many exciting flavors in Aegean cuisine so it was a little disappointing especially since the two dishes that I had never seen on an American menu before were not available (sahlep ice cream though you can get that at the Turkish festival in Daley plaza every year and the lamb intestine dish that Turks call kokorec). Still we enjoyed a wide variety of well prepared dishes and there were enough unique items on the menu that I'd be willing to go back to try more.

We started off with their roasted eggplant salad, a plate of olives, and the okra dish. I thought the eggplant salad was closer to Turkish patlican salatasi than baba ghanoush because the lemon flavor was stronger than the tahini flavor (was there tahini in it? I didn't pick up any). I like my eggplant smokey and this was good but not great in that department. It was served with pine nuts and good pita bread, but not what I would consider authentic pita. The okra dish was simple and delicious. The olives were middle of the road, nothing compared to the crunchy olives I ate growing up in Detroit or on my recent trip to Spain, but certainly better than most supermarket olives I get in Chicago.

We followed those dishes with the grilled octopus and the leek pie. The octopus was very tender though they didn't serve very much of it on the plate. Grilled octopus is one of my absolute favorite foods, and while this version was good, I kind of prefer the big hunks of charred octopus with vinegar you get at Greek Islands. Also they served it with somewhat large chunks of roasted onions and fennel root that were nice as a complement but there was too high a ratio of roasted roots/bulbs to octopus on the plate. They recommend having the octopus with ouzo, which I really enjoyed. The ouzo was sweet and really warmed up your mouth while you drank it. The phyllo breading on the leek pie was excellent. Crispy on the outside with poppy seeds and chewy on the inside, I think they got this dish pretty much dead on.

For mains we had the roasted lamb and the duck gyros. The lamb was served medium rare with a mild oregano skordalia that really didn't hold up to the meaty lamb flavor. The lamb itself was very tender and juicy, but the sear on the oustide was lacking the traditional lamb flavor I was craving. They cut the lamb into four servings so we could share it easily but that meant that each of us didn't get very much of the seared lamb, which I think was a detriment to the dish overall. The duck gyro didn't taste like duck to me. They say they cooked it with pastirma spices, but I didn't really pick that up. To me pastirma has a strong cumin and hot paprika flavor that really kicks you in mouth, and these duck gyros were nothing like that. Once again the meat was moist and tender, but seemed more mild that what I'm accustomed to in Aegean cuisine (granted duck gyros are something of a fusion dish).

I'm not sure I totally understood the concept of this restaurant. Chicago could definitely use some meze style restaurants, and the menu at Taxim definitely offers a range of authentic and interesting options. Yet they prepared many of the dishes in a way that mutes the flavors that make the cuisine unique and delicious. I have to go back to try the kokorec and the sahlep because those are dishes that are so hard to find, and if the sea bream is anything close to the stuff you can get on the Mediterranean coast that dish alone would be worth the price of admission. But as it stands I enjoyed my meal at Taxim, but it fell short of the lofty expectations I had after reading over the menu.

The menu struck me as more Turkish than Greek, but I am no expert on the differences between the cuisines. I know they are similar, but even the names of the dishes sounded more Turkish than Greek to me. The dishes that stuck out as particularly Turkish were the turlu, kavurma, manti, the pastirma spices, and the sahlep dondurma. I'd be interested to hear more about where the line between traditional Turkish and Greek food is, since I'd never think of the menu at Greek Islands as Turkish.

Taxim...I went about 3 months ago...and was painfully disappointed and embarresed since we took another couple from the burbs...I found nothing inspiring...and duck gyro was yawn....I would Not recommend

We had a good (not great) meal at Taxim last night.

I know that there is a fine line between subtle and bland, but too many things came down on the wrong side of that line last night.

There were highlights though. Small plates of eggplant and octopus were really, really good. The octopus in particular was a standout, well seasoned and perfectly tender. My main course of rack of lamb was outstanding. It was cooked a bit past my requested medium rare but the lamb itself was very tasty. Also, the three meaty chops made the chops I had a Los Moles look like fetuses in comparison.

On the "not so well seasoned" side we had the baby okra (which benefited from a little squeeze of lemon from one of our other dishes) and the much lauded duck gyro. My main criticism of the duck gyro is that the duck meat itself was quite bland (not sure if they've changed the spicing or what after reading the reports from others). When combined with everything else on the plate the dish worked, but this probably isn't something I'd order if I returned to Taxim.

Desserts were all tasty, especially the Greek yogurt and the lemon custard/phyllo thing.

I liked Taxim maybe a bit more than this post would indicate and I'll probably return. Taxim is doing some solid things and is certainly a worthwhile alternative when you're not in the mood for Greektown.

Just stopped in there on Wednesday night for a late light meal. Have never been before but I have to say that i really love the space and the feel of the place.

Had the
Sardéla me nerokárdamo – house-cured sardine, watercress, shallots, lemon vinaigrette

Which was really tasty and well balanced. The sardine had just the perfect taste and the vinaigrette was a proper balance in the dish and didnt overpower it like I see in a lot of places. The gf loved it.

Prassópita – leeks, shallots, fresh dill, goat feta, house-made phyllo

Essentially a greek turnover. This was pretty good although one or two of the bites were a little bitter. Interesting dish and different than what I think of as greek food. Although I will say I am very ignorant of greek food outside of the standard greek fare in your standard diner.

Soudzoúki Kaisareías – Kappadókia-style lamb sausage, kasseri, pickled cayennes and pearl onions

A really tasty dish that I thought was just a little dry on the sausage.

We also had a couple desserts. One is their take on baklava which was really nice and delicate. I'm a huge fan of baklava and after adjusting to how light this really was have to put this up there amongst my favorites. The second was a fried dough dumpling, much akin to a donut hole, with cream and honey. They were good but nothing earth shattering.

My gf definitely wants to go back as she thought it was a great intimate date place. I want to go back to try the duck gyros which they were out of that night.

i can't wait to try their iron chef menu. i wonder what the secret ingredient is? no one does greens and seafood better than chef schneider.
the desserts are a bit wanting, but the food and wine makes up for that.

mcrs wrote:i wonder what the secret ingredient is?

The secret ingredient was a big shocker. Just a huge surprise and a very challenging ingredient for a Greek chef. Leg of lamb!!!!

Yum- makes me happy to think about this.
Greek Easter Dinner at Taxim this Sunday.
- Magiritsa soup or Arugula salad with sheep’s milk kasseri cheese
- Molohopita: Molohes (wild greens) with house made phyllo, sheep’s milk butter and feta
- Kokoretsi: Charcoal-grilled caul-stuffed lamb offal served with housemade yogurt with mint
- Charcoal-Roasted Whole Lamb, basted with thyme, olive oil and lemon, and served whole over a bulgur wheat pilaf with kavourma (lamb confit), almonds and roasted tomatoes
- Manouri cheese with candied mandarins and pistachio

mcrs wrote::D Yum- makes me happy to think about this.
Greek Easter Dinner at Taxim this Sunday.
- Magiritsa soup or Arugula salad with sheep’s milk kasseri cheese
- Molohopita: Molohes (wild greens) with house made phyllo, sheep’s milk butter and feta
- Kokoretsi: Charcoal-grilled caul-stuffed lamb offal served with housemade yogurt with mint
- Charcoal-Roasted Whole Lamb, basted with thyme, olive oil and lemon, and served whole over a bulgur wheat pilaf with kavourma (lamb confit), almonds and roasted tomatoes
- Manouri cheese with candied mandarins and pistachio

Taxim Restaurant wrote:Greek Easter Lamb Roast at Taxim this Sunday!!!

In celebration of Greek Easter we will be roasting whole lambs over an open fire this Sunday, April 24th. The lamb will be served with traditional fixings over 5 courses which will include tsoureki bread, magiritsa soup, kokoretsi skewers, xortopites, the whole lamb roast with potatoes and bulgur, and a dessert of manouri cheese and candied mandarin oranges. The 5-course meal will be $75 per person. It commences at 5pm with the tradition of cracking red eggs!

Other specials available this week will be our 5-course Iron Chef menu which will be served through Thursday with optional wine pairings, and a one time treat of fish gyros available this Friday and Saturday only.

For reservations or more informa tion please call 773-252-1558 or visit us at http://www.taximchicago.com.

Come and join us this week, we'd love to see you!

Thank you and Kalo Pasxa!