Chicken Vesuvio

Hi,

I am not baiting. I am reporting.

I was just settling in watch Twilight Zone and flipping through the newspaper, when I started to read Phil Vettel's 2-star review of the Grotto:

Chicago Tribune's Phil Vettel review of The Grotto wrote:... Chef Abraham Aguirre, who has been running the kitchen since The Grotto opened two years ago. Aguirre logged considerable time at Giannotti's (the Forest Park original) and at Harry Caray's.

Aguirre's previous work is apparent in his current menu. As he did at Harry Caray's, Aguirre offers his steaks broiled or done in peppercorn, Vesuvio and Italian treatments (though to me adding sauce to a prime steak is a shame).

Aguirre also re-creates his chicken Vesuvio at The Grotto, and if Harry Caray's has the No. 1 chicken Vesuvio in town (and it does), Grotto has No. 1-A. The dish features a roasted, disjointed half-chicken (none of that wimpy Vesuvio-style skinless breast here) along with sweet peas and nuclear-hot roasted potatoes, virtually swimming in a garlic-lemon sauce. People who dismiss chicken Vesuvio for its lack of Italian pedigree (the dish was invented in Chicago) forget how good it tastes when you do it right.

In the last year or so, I have come to the conclusion the only decent Chicken Vesuvio would have to be made by me.

This moment I have seen a light at the tunnel where there are two opportunities to try someone else's Chicken Vesuvio: 1) Harry Caray's and 1-A) The Grotto's. And yes, I cannot totally ignore the latest reiteration to the claim of Vesuvio's origins. The line in the sand was drawn long ago and neither side is budging.

So whose tried Chicken Vesuvio at either establishment, is it as good as Phil states?

The Grotto
1030 N. State St.
312-280-1005
Open: Dinner Mon.-Sun.

Harry Caray's Restaurant

Here's my vote for Harry's Chicken Vesuvio. Good stuff, worth the trip to touristvile. I first tried Harry's CV 12 years ago (at the now-defunct Wheeling operation), and it was my first encounter with the dish. I've not exactly been looking around for rivals or doing comprehensive taste-offs, but the several versions I've tried elswhere always fall down on one or more of the following, at which Harry's NEVER seems to fail: (1) chicken is too dry or tough; (2) potatoes are just boiled lumps, not beautifully roasted specimens a la Harry C.; and/or (3) the sauce is too much like brown chicken/turkey gravy with a lot of garlic salt added, not the fresh garlic/lemon juice dressing that I associate with this dish.

Cathy2 wrote:So whose tried Chicken Vesuvio at either establishment, is it as good as Phil states?

C2,

About 6-7 months ago, maybe slightly more, I did a C-V taste-off between 6-7 spots. I will publish my findings in the next week or two. I still need to hit 1 or 2 additional spots to have a fair representation.

Enjoy,
Gary

Many years ago I had the sirloin vesuvio at Harry Caray's and it was excellent. Even though it was at least 10 years ago, I remember it well only because of how good it was...the potatoes were crisp on the outside, tender on the inside, the sauce was delicious, the peas (fresh, IIRC) were perfectly cooked--not mushy at all, etc.

=R=

Can someone post a picture of GOOD chicken vesuvio? I have not had it much and I am not sure what I should be looking for!

I anxiously await Gary's results.

I've tried many, including Harry's (but not the Grotto) and for me, the clear winner is Francesco's Hole in the Wall.

I used to swear by Villa Palermo on Devon, but they've disappointed lately:

http://www.lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=956

Sorry, no pics.

Best,
Michael / EC

This is digressing, but whether it is the best chicken vesuvio or not, I really like Harry Carey's as a restaurant. In fact every time I go, I wonder why I do not go more often--OK, I know why, it aint cheap.

But I like the decor, the service, the appetizers, especially the salads, the fried calamari, and the toasted ravioli, and a few other dishes that make it a very fun place.

Rob

Given that this thread in "Eating Out in Chicagoland" should be primarily about versions of the dish to be found in local restaurants, I have posted a long piece regarding the origins of this dish in Non-food Chat.

Antonius

jlawrence01 wrote:Can someone post a picture of GOOD chicken vesuvio? I have not had it much and I am not sure what I should be looking for!

if i knew how to post photos, i could certainly post a good photo of Grotto's Chicken Vesuvio.

a not tech savvy leesh

Bella Notte makes a wonderful Chicken Vesuvio- on the bone.

If we must have two threads on the same thing, let's at least cross-link.

You guys have missed the boat on this one. I've been looking for the perfect chicken vesuvio for years. I'm old enough to remember the great chicken vesuvio at New Capri on Diversey just west of Clark many years ago. Perfectly crisp skin, on the bone, slightly oily and plenty garlicky, with vesuvio potatoes crisp on the outside and pleasantly soft on the inside. Candelite on Western near Howard, often deservedly mentioned on this site as having a fabulous pizza, used to have absolutely topnotch chicken vesuvio. But that was years ago, and you had to be sure "Bobby" was doing the cooking. I haven't tried it there for years, because once I'm there, I can't resist the pizza. BUT, there is great chicken vesuvio still available in Chicago today, and it blows the socks off of Harry Carry or Grotto or anyone else. Trust me. Go try the chicken vesuvio at: Cannella's on Grand, 1132 W. Grand, 312-433-9400. Let me know how many times you go back the first week after you've discovered the sensual pleasure of this "best in class" rendition. I went 4 times. Really, let me know. The Donald

The Donald!

Welcome to LTH.

Twenty-thirty years ago, it seemed to be much easier to get a Chicken Vesuvio which matched my expectations. One problem, which I have identified before on another board, is the need to provide variety by accessorizing. You cook a chicken breast, then the dish morphs into several menu items by the addition of a sauce, a starch and a vegetable.

Unfortunately, Chicken Vesuvio isn't quite a comfortable fit in the restaurant kitchen of today. It is high maintenance requiring pan roasting and finishing in the oven. However, streamlined for expediency and perceived menu variety, it just isn't the same.

Now that you have added Cannella's to the conversation, have you tried the Chicken Vesuvio at Harry Caray's or The Grotto? I know I haven't, I know I want to and will add Cannella onto the list.

I very much appreciate your comments on The Candlelite and having the CV if Bobby was in the kitchen. From reading between the lines, that seems to be a bygone era. Yet those are the tips which make reading this board worthwhile.

YourPalWill wrote:Bella Notte makes a wonderful Chicken Vesuvio- on the bone.

just fyi - the owner/chef of bella notte is Grotto's Chef Abraham's brother (ramone Aguirre)

leesh

leesh wrote:if i knew how to post photos, i could certainly post a good photo of Grotto's Chicken Vesuvio.

Leesh,

Just so happens I have a picture of Grotto on State's Chicken V.


You'll have to wait for my Chicken V post for specifics, but, not to worry, Grotto's Chicken V was quite good. Moist throughout, including the breast, a few roasted cloves of garlic and an ever so slightly sweet note to the sauce.

Enjoy,
Gary

I went to Sabatino's for dinner last night. One of the specials was veal vesuvio, so in deference to this thread I ordered it. It was something that I would probably not order again. The vesuvio treatment on veal just didn't work for me, however the potatoes were some of the best of the vesuvio style I have ever had. One of these days, I'll try the CV.

An interesting thing happened while I was there. There was a table full of Asian diners who were celebrating dual birthdays. It appeared that American-Italian was a style with which they were more or less unfamiliar. One of the diners asked about the origins of veal vesuvio (or more specifically vesuvio in general). The waiter had no answer for him and went off saying "I'll ask one of the Italians for you." After a lengthy absence, he returned with the simple explaination, "Sir, it's a mountain in Italy."

P.S. No peas were present in the Sabitino's version.

Cathy2 wrote:
This moment I have seen a light at the tunnel where there are two opportunities to try someone else's Chicken Vesuvio: 1) Harry Caray's and 1-A) The Grotto's. And yes, I cannot totally ignore the latest reiteration to the claim of Vesuvio's origins. The line in the sand was drawn long ago and neither side is budging.

So whose tried Chicken Vesuvio at either establishment, is it as good as Phil states?

Harry Caray's Restaurant

Not last night, not by a long shot. I had the opportunity for a big expense account dinner, rare since my days with the Big Six, and Harry Caray's was the chosen venue. I actually passed on a steak because I thought I was gonna go to the Palm's family style adventure of Friday (thanks for the tip George)*. Instead, I went for the CV.

Not good. Amazingly not good for a signature dish. The chicken was tough and soggy, evident it seemed, of being held way long before serving. Worse, the dish had nearly zero flavor, no garlic ooph, no bright winey sauce that I argue is the difference between CV and Antonious's pollo con patate. Perhaps an off-night, a Monday night special.

*This morning I awoke to remember that the Palm's deal is Sun-Thursday. Maybe I should have had a steak last night.

Sorry to hear about the disappointing CV, VI. In MCMLXXXVIII, I had my first CV at Papa Milano's on Oak. It was a revelation! Crisp skin, perfectly moist meat -- even the breast, and the sublime combination of garlic and some acidic element (wine?) with the pan juices. I think Papa Milano's is still there. I wonder if they are still good. Has anyone been?