I can say without qualification that last night's dinner at the new Tipsy Parson in Chelsea was one of my all-time favorite meals in New York. My companion and I began with crisp, almost etherial hush-puppies and delicious fig rumaki, each dried fig stuffed with a water chestnut and wrapped in smoky bacon.
Fully appetized, we split an entree plus 3 side dishes: crusty seared catfish, served with a tarragon-scented salad of potatoes and celeriac; sauteed spinach with lemon and garlic; cheesy grits; mac and cheese with bacon (I can't get enough cheese and bacon!). Although the place was Friday-night crazy, everything was perfectly prepared, deftly seasoned and served piping hot.
As excellent as our dinner was, the entire meal was nearly eclipsed by the restaurant's namesake dessert, the Tipsy Parson. Reminiscent of an English trifle, this incredible concoction combined dense, amaretto-soaked pound cake squares, macerated fruit, thick whipped cream and sliced almonds into a treat of nearly orgasmic dimension. Although we were barely able to finish one, for a moment I rashly considered ordering another. It was that good.
With cocktails and a glass each of wine, the bill was $123 before tip. Quite reasonable, I think, considering the excellent food and service.
This is not the cooking I remember growing up in the South. This is a fresh, loving interpretation of an important American cuisine by a truly gifted chef. I strongly recommend you give it a try.
Tipsy Parson
156 9th Avenue
(212) 620-4545