You hit them at a rare off moment.
I had come to think that Salam's "rare off moment" was better described as "the second half of 2008 and most of 2009." Certainly at the time I was investigating middle eastern places in Bridgeview, Salam's decline was obvious to me, its food flat and colorless next to the mouth fireworks I kept discovering down there, its staff listless and forgetful. Nor was I the only one who felt this way, a number of people commenting on the board or in private that Salam didn't have the sparkle it once had. It seemed likely to be the next entry on my mental list of "GNRs which nobody would vote to make a GNR now."
Some changes happened, and among them was that Salam expanded into much nicer surroundings. First reports were not so great— Monica Eng, in the Trib, had
a pretty terrible experience that suggested at the least severe growing pains, and at worst that Salam as we knew it had simply ceased to be in favor of a slicker, emptier Falafelteria.
Well, I went there today with skepticism in hand, expecting to take one for the team hammering the last nail in the coffin, to mix a metaphor or two.
And instead I'm happy to report that Salam is much, much improved over its wan last year, maybe as good as it's been. I hesitate to declare it fine top to bottom, because I had a lunch special combo plate, which I have to guess by the way they're pushing it (and the fact that it's by far the best deal for a solo diner at lunch) is what most are ordering at lunch, so if they're going to get any dish right, that better be it. On the other hand, since it's a dish that consists of the top 5 or 6 things on the menu, the fact that they got them
all right is a pretty good endorsement. Shawerma, shish taouk, kefta, falafel, all had the bright juicy flavors you associate with this food at its best, served right off the grill or fryer. Baba ghanouj was lively (though not, as noted above, smoky) and had some real heat from the pepper relish on top. Even the olives served gratis seemed better than the harsh version I remember, with subtle orange notes.
The renovation is not only pretty but there's a real liveliness there that Salam never had before. It used to be kind of like Mayberry UAE in there, a country cafe with a few old-timers sitting around. Now Salam is full of young people, it's hip. Okay, that's not necessarily a food recommendation (most of the worst falafel joints in town are full of young people in hip Wicker Park), but there's an energy that Salam never had, it's cheery to see three shawerma-gyros thing side by side on and working at a full clip, and the big guy with the Inspector Clouseau mustache obviously invigorated by being busy and having lots of customers to interact with.
I'm sure Salam still has some growing pains ahead but it was very happy for me to see a place that seemed on the slow slide to oblivion do such a 180 and, maybe, be better than it was before. The only downside is that the parking lot is now absurdly inadequate and was a clusterfarouk in entirely different ways upon both entering and leaving. A minor note in otherwise good news.