I come to you more than a little ashamed. A year or so ago, they began to renovate what is now the Crown Plaza Hotel in Glen Ellyn (previously it was a slightly sad Holiday Inn). Not of great interest to me, but it was on a route I travel every couple of weeks, and the restaurant that emerged actually caught my eye, both in terms of the look of the interior, as well as the logo. To the point that I actually pointed it out to my wife, saying simply that it attracted me, but my deep bias against hotel restaurants (overpriced and rarely any good) prevented me from going.
Then I was perusing the current Chicago Mag's bit on dining bargains, and there it was, a great deal, seasonal, local ingredients, strong cooking. So we went, based on a Chicago Magazine article, to a place I have passed and noticed at least 50 times. Embarrassing, but thank you Chicago.
The short report is that the food is quite good, the $20 3-course menu a crazy bargain, and I wish them the best. The room is warm and welcoming, nice bar and banquettes, perfect place to enjoy a good cocktail followed by a warming winter repast. I will be back soon.
They do, in fact, pursue a locavore approach to food sources, as our hostess explained, sourcing as much as they can from within a 100 mile radius. The suppliers are first rate, as are the ingredients. My salad was a beautiful combination of cherry tomatoes, perfect greens, turnip shavings and more, so lightly dressed you could almost miss the dressing (Champagne Vinaigrette, so it was supposed to be light), but that was fine with such pristine ingredients.
My Miller Farms Roasted Chicken was interesting - the appearance of the skin, bubbling, golden brown and crispy, suggested it had been deep fried rather than roasted, but I did not ask. It was flavorful, herb marinated, though the white meat was a wee bit dry. The caramelized Brussel Sprouts were undercooked, and the caramelization was not as marked as I expect. Still tasty, as I enjoy crispy vegetables, but the execution was not what it could be.
The Bride's meat loaf was an interesting concept - three layers, piled up in thin bricks - first a layer of mashed potatoes with a touch of mushroom gravy, then a reddish beige interior slice of meat loaf that most resembled salmon loaf, topped with another slice of meatloaf, glazed with a pretty coating of mushroom gravy. Tasty and moist, but visually a bit different.
While there we also learned of another dish that I will go back and try - a riff on chicken and waffles - "seared chicken breast, butternut squash waffles, maple syrup gastrique." I was told the Chef actually grew up near Roscoe's and this is his tribute to the comfort food of his youth. Amen to that.
If one orders a la carte, the same three courses would be $28, so it is a deal even without the prix fixe menu (available every night after 5).
Given the price, the quality of the ingredients, the approach (basically little riffs on traditional comfort foods with good, but not perfect technique) and the simple fact that there were no major flaws in my $20 3 course meal - I am thrilled. The main attraction of the wine list was a large section on American sustainably, organically and or biodynamically raised wines. The rest of it was not too interesting. But the food is very wine friendly, and corkage is $10, so it might as well be BYO the way I see it.
Another nice touch is that dessert is offered in regular servings at around $6 per, or in small servings for $2, allowing one to have a light dessert (I had an egg cup sized serving of Cappucino Gelato, while the Bride enjoyed the same size Brownie Sundae), or to create your own dessert sampler.
Comparisons to Prairie Grass and Vie come to mind, though the chef, whoever he or she (I believe it is a he) may be is not anywhere near the skill and palate of Paul or Sarah. Nor is he quite as ambitious. But I wish him every opportunity to improve, because his approach is very sound.
Service was attentive and responsive, though it reminded me more than a bit of the early days of Vie - a bit like being waited on by a very enthusiastic college theater troupe. Dedicated to the concept of the restaurant and genuinely friendly and interested, but not quite the smooth professionals, yet.
Should have tried it before now, but color me happy now. I suppose one of the shared sentiments around here is that we wish every meal to be delectable, every restaurant to thrive, or at least I do. Glen Prairie is a work in process, and I will happily track the progress.
Will take pictures at my next visit, too.
Glen Prairie RestaurantCrowne Plaza Glen Ellyn-Lombard
1250 Roosevelt Road
Glen Ellyn, IL 60137
630-629-6000
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Feeling (south) loopy