Parker's post would not be complete without the quote of the trip from a Felix's shucker:

"Oysters and beer every day of the year." That's a life I could get used to.

The one regret on the po' boy challenge was that Domilise's was closed on the day we tried to go. Other than that, it was a fantastic time. Thanks again for the recs as I continue to try and check them off the list.

ParkerS wrote:Same oysters, people, though i suppose different atmosphere.

Actually, the quality of oysters varies widely from place to place, due to the fact that the better restaurants have built relationships over time with the best purveyors (who, not surprisingly, have the best oyster beds). SeeDrago's Web Site for a discussion of this phenomenon (under the "Our Oysters" section).

Besides Drago's, the other top spots in terms of quality for raw oysters in town in my book are Casamento's and the raw bar at Pascal's Manale (though I cannot recommend the restaurant, the raw bar there is top notch). In fact, when there is a long wait at Dick & Jenny's, we will sometimes put our names in there & head over to Pascal's for oysters in the meantime (it's a short drive, but would be a long walk).

As a counter example, I never order oysters at Cooter Brown'sanymore (though they certainly sell a lot of them), as there is a very noticeable difference in quality between theirs and, say, Pascal's....

Pascal's Manale
1838 Napoleon Ave.
(504) 895-4877

Hours of Operation:
Sun 4-9pm
Mon-Fri 11:30am-10pm
Sat 4-10pm

Cooter Brown's Tavern & Oyster Bar
509 S. Carrollton Ave.
(504) 866-9104

Hi,

I am going to New Orleans for a field trip devoted to Sugar via the Southern Foodways Alliance. For one evening, I have a choice of dining at one of the following restaurants:

Brigsten's
Bayona
Cuvee
Emeril's
Gabrielle
Herbsaint
Jacques-Imo's
New Orleans Grill (at the Windsor Court Hotel)
Ralph's on the Park

Can someone help identify which one to beeline to?

Thanks!

Cathy2 wrote:I am going to New Orleans for a field trip devoted to Sugar via the Southern Foodways Alliance. For one evening, I have a choice of dining at one of the following restaurants:

Brigsten's
Bayona
Cuvee
Emeril's
Gabrielle
Herbsaint
Jacques-Imo's
New Orleans Grill (at the Windsor Court Hotel)
Ralph's on the Park

Can someone help identify which one to beeline to?

Thanks!

Only one I've been to is Bayona. It was outstanding.

Cathy2 wrote:For one evening, I have a choice of dining at one of the following restaurants:

Brigsten's, Bayona, Cuvee, Emeril's, Gabrielle, Herbsaint, acques-Imo's, New Orleans Grill (at the Windsor Court Hotel),
Ralph's on the Park

There's a lot of hype in New Orleans, and some good food. Hype? Liuzza's BBQ shrimp, which is frozen north sea shrimp in nondescript bbq sauce. Hype? Mirasol--a talented chef subject to burnout and a dining room staff unsupervised.

But if perhaps your one evening is a Fri or Sat night, I urge you to try Restaurant Mandich. Not to be missed are the Oysters Bordelaise (fried oysters topped with parsley-garlic butter, the turtle soup (the turtle soup, the turtle soup), the Trout Mandich (fried sea trout topped with fresh local crabmeat and hollandaise), airline iceberg lettuce salad and good garlic bread on the table as soon as you sit. This is a legacy place, pretty different from the places you have listed above.

For a while I lived in New Orleans in the late '70's and worked off shore from Plaquemines Parish, Bayou Lafitte, Bayou LaFource and environs. I sucked heads, caught redfish, learned about roux and file gumbo, flipped over easy eggs to entertain the crew and hurt my back.

Upon my return last year during xmas week, I found the plethora of in-town choices confusing. Then I figured out what I wanted. What it was this: whatever was fresh and local. that narrowed it down considerably. Interestingly, I had the best oysters of the trip out at Harbor Seafood by the airport. $3.25 a dozen -- better than Casiamento's and half the price. Harbor is a good place for raw, boiled and fried. Skip the gumbo and turtle soup. Go into the fish market next door first to see what was running. The day I was there they had just received soft shells. Boy, I'm telling you...

Another place, not too far from the San Francisco plantation which you can tour, is Hymel's, a country place all the way. After the raw oysters (exc) and gumbo (ok), I ordered the fried sea trout, $9. The waitress brought out this 12 in oval plate, covered and mounded in fish. 'They were a little small, so they gave you two' she apologized.

The previous night, the folks at Mandich had recommended Le Cuisine in Metarie for Sun night. 'What kind of food?' I asked. 'Like ours' they replied. I qeuried Hymel's patron, about 80, s about where to eat Sun night. 'Le Cuisine? That's my wife's favorite place'. Le Cuisine was fine for a Sun night, but its out in the close-in suburb of Metairie. Mandich is the place.

In case I may have wandered while discoursing: Mandich, Mandich, Mandich in the old ninth ward. Turtle Soup Turtle Soup Turtle Soup. Oysters Bordelaise (you might want two orders). Trout Mandich. Lunch M-F, dinner Fri-Sat ONLY.

Hi Steve!

Thanks! I appreciate your tips and will make a best effort to hit Mandich.

Of those on my list, do you have any strong positives or negatives?

Regards,

Cathy2 wrote:For one evening, I have a choice of dining at one of the following restaurants:

Brigsten's
Bayona
Cuvee
Emeril's
Gabrielle
Herbsaint
Jacques-Imo's
New Orleans Grill (at the Windsor Court Hotel)
Ralph's on the Park

Can someone help identify which one to beeline to?

Cathy,

You really don't need to go beyond the first spot on your list. If I was given the chance to eat one and only one meal in New Orleans, I would definitely choose Brigtsen's. That place consistenly amazes me. Here's the link.

If I had to pick an alternate off your list, I'd probably go with Herbsaint (get the roast shoulder of suckling pig if it's still on the menu there - I had it a couple of months ago & it was great). Ralph's on the park is as notable for the beautiful restoration of the building, and its setting in the middle of the live oaks in City Park, as it is for the food - also a good choice.

Re: Restarant Mandich. I ate there recently and was very disappointed to find that they are no longer offering the classic preparation of their signature dish (also a long time favorite of mine), Trout Mandich - a speckled trout filet, broiled, topped with lump crabmeat and hollandaise. They now flatly refuse to make it with the crabmeat, and I was unable to get an explanation as to why, beyond "We can't make any money on it that way " - but it was always priced at market price before, so that explanation doesn't seem to hold water. I took it as a bad sign for their business that they were willing to mess with their namesake dish like that, and I haven't been back since. Too many other great spots to try...

Cathy2, is that someone else's short list or yours. For me, especially in the price range of many of those on your list, I would STRONGLY suggest (instead) Galatoires. I think Galatoires remains the definative New Orleans restaurant. Moreover, I know someone who was just there--like last week, and really liked it.

I'm very anxious to try/hear more about Jaques-Imo, but as you seem willing to spend more, I'd go with Galatoires.

Insisit on sitting downstairs!

Rob

Hi,

The list wasn't mine, it was from the organizers of the Sugar field trip. They want my preference, then it is first-come-first-served with the organization pairing up people and such.

SInce I get a $40 credit at any of those restaurants, I am inclined to stick to their program, which is no sacrifice because that's why I am going!

Thanks!

Cathy2 wrote:I appreciate your tips and will make a best effort to hit Mandich. Of those on my list, do you have any strong positives or negatives?

I haven't been to the places on the list, so can't comment.

Other.
Crabmeat has gotten ungodly expensive, with many places using tinned crabmeat imported from Thailand rather than fresh. Taste wise, its like using canned tuna in place of fresh.

Oh, its a Group supper. The thing about Mandich is, its old, and worn. Not the place I'd pick for most groups as its the diametric opposite of trendy. With an exception being an LTHforum kick-ass supper.

I haven't really looked at the "Beyond Chicagoland" posts much, but since NO seemed to reappear on the top of the list I read through this thread. It brought back a lot of memories of a lot of good food and good times. I was last there in 2000.

SteveZ and ChiNOLA have excellent suggestions as do others. I also remember a place called "Mandina's" [edit: This is different from Mandich I think]. It was a "locals only" place I had scouted out and waited in line 20mins on a weeknight. It had excellent turtle soup (though the waiter's pour on the sherry was a bit too long...)

As far as your list goes, I would very very strongly second ChiNOLA's recommendation to Brigtsen's. I still remember the tastes from the meal my girlfriend and I had there. The sweetbreads appetizer was fabulous; it is not on the current menu (ChiNOLA posted the link) but do ask. The rabbit (paneed with a sesame breadcrumb crust) was outstanding - I 'm now married to that girlfriend . From what I've heard as well, rabbit dishes there are great.

I have had only a couple of appetizers at Bayona. They were good, but I wasn't wowed like I was at Brightsen's.

I have heard Emeril's flagship place is great if you do the whole 12-20 (I don't know the exact count) course-each-paired-with-wine shenbang.

Off your list, please drop by the Napolean House Bar - they have a good Pimm's cup and great sazeracs
Camelia Grill for breakfast (note: cash only)
Uglesich's
I'm not sure I noticed a mention of Mother's. This is just off the French Quarter (walking distance) - they have a great sandwich called a Ferdi - get it with all the "debris". The jambalaya and turtle soup there are good too.

I've also had great oysters (and lagniappe - don't ask for this - if you get it, you get it ) at both Acme and Felix's Oyster House.

I would suggest leaving Pat O'Briens to the frat boys.

Hope you have a great time. Remember it's N'awlins *

*There is something in the water in there. You will end up going back.

Edited to correct spelling: should be Brigtsen's but pronounced Brightsen's

Vital Information wrote:I would STRONGLY suggest (instead) Galatoires. I think Galatoires remains the definative New Orleans restaurant.

Rob -

I'd say in terms of overall, classic New Orleans dining experience (that is to say, the way they used to do it in the olden days, totally old-school, several hours for dinner & drinks kinda thang), that you may be right. I'd also say that Antoine's is certainly in the same league as Galatoire's, maybe not quite at the pinnacle, but certainly a very close second.

Neither would be at the top of my list based strictly on the food, but both fall into the category of "You gotta try 'em at least once", if for no other reason than to have a valid basis for comparison with the many other great spots in New Orleans. Both are New Orleans classics, for sure, and certainly worthy of a visit.

Vital Information wrote:I'm very anxious to try/hear more about Jaques-Imo

Haven't eaten there since Austin Leslie left, but word amongst the locals is that it's slipped somewhat recently, not necessarily due to Austin's departure, but more likely Jaques' opening two other restaurants (Crabby Jack's in New Orleans [the old Louisiana Seafood Exchange] and the second Jaques-Imo's in New York).

Steve Drucker wrote:Crabmeat has gotten ungodly expensive, with many places using tinned crabmeat imported from Thailand rather than fresh. Taste wise, its like using canned tuna in place of fresh.

Mandich is certainly not the kind of place that would use tinned crabmeat, and I had heard about the fresh lump prices going astronomical - guess that explains it. Don't get me wrong, Mandich was one of my favorite places in town (coincidentally enough, my standard order was always Turtle Soup, Oysters Bordelaise, and Trout Mandich). It's just not the same if you can't get the mac-daddy version of Trout Mandich w/ the Crab though.... Maybe the crab prices will drop & they will start offering it again.... Sure hope so....

Oh, its a Group supper. The thing about Mandich is, its old, and worn. Not the place I'd pick for most groups as its the diametric opposite of trendy. With an exception being an LTHforum kick-ass supper.

Now you're talking. I'd definitely be up for an LTHForum outing to New Orleans. Fall would be the best time of year for lack of crowds & good weather...

From the list - and just one to pick from - I'd pick Brigsten's.

Hi,

Based on the collective wisdom offered here, I have selected Brigstens as my first choice. The description offered "Set in a lovely Uptown shotgun, Frank Brigsten is renowned for his way with duck, rabbit and local fish," which hardly captures the enthusiasm offered here.

Second choice is Herbsaint , "Named for the distinctive liquor that enlivens a Sazarec (where have I seen that name!) cocktail, Donald Link's St. Charles AVenue bistro is known for fried frog legs and shrimp-stuffed deviled eggs."

Third choice Ralph's on the Park, "New to the New Orleans scene, Ralph's overlooks historic city park. Vibrant local produce figures prominently into Gerard Maras's cooking."

I'm so glad I inquired with the LTH mindtrust because the descriptions offered by the organizers left me effectively rudderless.

I'll follow up in July with the results.

Many thanks!

Regards,

Adam (Abraus) and I had the good fortune of hitting Uglesich's before it closed (projected to happen soon), as we reported earlier.
New article by R.W. Apple about them.
It is, in my opinion, a terrible article, but at least it's got some good quotes.
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/04/27/dinin ... html?8hpib

ParkerS wrote:Adam (Abraus) and I had the good fortune of hitting Uglesich's before it closed (projected to happen soon), as we reported earlier.
New article by R.W. Apple about them.
It is, in my opinion, a terrible article, but at least it's got some good quotes.
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/04/27/dinin ... html?8hpib

what did you not like about the article. one of these days, when i can get back to blogging, i am gonna do a review(ish) of Apple's America. Long story short, i like his feature stuff a lot better than what's in the book. Anyways, I liked the article today. What did not you like?

(I say this 'cause I am curious. Do not take it as defensive at all...)

Rob

what did you not like about the article. one of these days, when i can get back to blogging, i am gonna do a review(ish) of Apple's America. Long story short, i like his feature stuff a lot better than what's in the book. Anyways, I liked the article today. What did not you like?

(I say this 'cause I am curious. Do not take it as defensive at all...)

Rob[/quote]

Hey, I love Apple. He even hails from my hometown of Akron, Ohio, and he generally writes fantastic stuff about places I'll never see nor in whose cuisine I'll ever engage.
This article to me seemed very cursory, and, to my tastes, not very involved with the actual food. For instance, saying that some people like cheese and fish, that he enjoyed the blue cheese oysters (he's right--they're amazing), and his wife, Betsey, did not, seems a rather bland way to go about the food--what about the cheese? How did it taste? Smell? why might it be offensive?
Perhaps my disappointment in the article stemmed from the fact that this was in fact a place to which I have been, and I was expecting a rehashing of my food memories there, rather than a "this is a good place, they serve seafood, some with cheese, we had a party" type thing.
I guess in short, it lacked the typical R.W. Apple journalistic flair that I have come to love, and, of course, expect.
He just didn't seem very excited, and I guess I was a little over excited to read the article.

Cathy,
I am going to Brigsten's for my LAST meal in New Orleans before my move. They offer an "Early Bird special" which consists of a three course meal for $17. By all accounts, it's an outstanding bargain! I believe the special runs from opening (5:30 pm) to 6:30. I'll report back after I go there on Tuesday.

His lack of enthusiasm made for a weak article regarding food in Puerto Rico a few weeks back. I hope it isn't a trend.

Sal Monilla wrote:Cathy,
I am going to Brigsten's for my LAST meal in New Orleans before my move. They offer an "Early Bird special" which consists of a three course meal for $17. By all accounts, it's an outstanding bargain! I believe the special runs from opening (5:30 pm) to 6:30. I'll report back after I go there on Tuesday.

That is an outstanding bargain. Looking forward to your report.

Vital Information wrote:I would STRONGLY suggest (instead) Galatoires. I think Galatoires remains the definative New Orleans restaurant. Moreover, I know someone who was just there--like last week, and really liked it.

Rob - FYI Galatoire's just won the James Beard Foundation's San Peligrino award (their highest honor) as the best restaurant in the country.

http://www.nola.com/dining/story/?/dini ... award.html

ParkerS wrote:Adam (Abraus) and I had the good fortune of hitting Uglesich's before it closed (projected to happen soon), as we reported earlier.

I had the good fortune to dine at Uglesich's twice during JazzFest the past couple of weeks. The food was as great as ever, but it was kind of a sad atmosphere, given that they are definitely closing for good on Friday, May 6th.

I talked with Anthony for a few minutes & he said that he might re-open later with a reduced schedule & serve only appetizers or somesuch, or perhaps focus on catering. He wasn't exactly sure yet, but he did get quite emotional & even teared up at one point. It's not an easy thing for him to give up his life's work.

At the end of my second fantastic meal (the one that I knew would be my last there, at least with the restaurant in its present form), I felt compelled to lead a standing ovation for Anthony and Gail. The entire place leapt to their feet, whooped and hollered for a few minutes. They just kind of stood behind the counter shaking their heads and smiling....

I'll miss that place a LOT.

Okay. Finally got my Internet connection after running the crazed Comcast gauntlet. But in any case, I wanted to chime in re: my last phenomenal meal before I moved from New Orleans. The soup du jour was an AWESOME andouille and rabbit gumbo, so I started with that. I had to refrain from tapping my grandmother on the shoulder and telling her that this was the best gumbo I had ever had.

It appears Brigsten's early bird menu changes from week to week (if not day to day) but here is what was offered the Week of May 3:

1st Course:
White Bean Soup with ham
Ricotta Salata, Croutons & Green Onion dressing

2nd Course:
Broiled Salmon with asparagus, mushrooms and bearnaise

OR

Pan-roasted chicken sauce piquante with stone ground jalapeno cheese grits

3rd course:
Homemade ice cream

OR

banana bread pudding with banana custard sauce

OR

Louisiana Strawberry Shortcake

Available Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30-6:30 PM

And although this menu was a PHENOMENAL bargain (others at my table got the menu variations), I opted for the Seafood Platter:

Grilled Drum fish with basil crawfish sauce
Crawfish Thermidor
Baked Oyster LeRuth with Shrimp & Crawfish
Garlic baked oyster with Shrimp & crawfish
Panneed jumbo sea scallop stuffed with asparagus puree
Jalapeno shrimp cole slaw

A mere 28 bucks.

I just wish I hadn't waited until the eve of my move to go here. What an AMAZING experience. Umm....the fact that family footed the bill along with several bottles of some Acacia Pinot didn't hurt either.

Cathy, you WILL enjoy!!!

G Wiv wrote:

I've been eating some damn good fried chicken lately, but nothing compares to, at least the memory of, Chez Helene. ~sigh~



Enjoy,
Gary

Austin Leslie, Requiescat in Pace.

E.M.

Re above, from the NY Times today:
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/09/30/national/30LESLIE.html

Hi,

I was thinking recently about Austin Leslie whom I dined with last year at the Southern Foodways Conference. There had been a hurricane just a few weeks before, which caused my sister to evacuate from Mississippi to Chicago. Under the very same circumstances, he holed up in his home while his family fled. I had wondered how he had responded to Katrina.

That same evening I watched him cook his signature fried chicken along with Scott Peacock and other food notables. He certainly had asbestos fingers as I watched him dip his fingers in the oil more than a few times.

It was very nice to meet and get to know the person as well as his food.

Regards,

I finally read the NYT's obituary:

Mr. Leslie, a native of New Orleans, spent two days in the attic of his home after Hurricane Katrina before being evacuated, first to the city's convention center, and then to Atlanta.

From our conversation last year, this does not surprise me he was one who had to be rescued.

Regards,

due to the hurricane but having eaten all over nawlins I have to say the best restaurant has to be Jacques-imo's. This place is a locals favorite and it is very reasonably priced. Some of the highlights at the cafe are the fried chicken, the wahoo, a fish from warm water florida, the alligator sausage cheesecake and to be honest from what ive learned youcant go wrong with anything there.

As far as the shacks go there is a place that reopened since the hurrican thats called coop's. This place has the best gumbo ive found out there and I have been to a lot of reccomended and much hyped places but this is my favorite. To get something out of the ordinary try the fried gator bites, these things a re ver addictive.

http://www.jacquesimoscafe.com

http://www.coopsplace-neworleans.com/index.html

Erik M. wrote:Austin Leslie, Requiescat in Pace.

Erik,

A sad day indeed, Austin Leslie was a true artist. The memory of fried chicken at Chez Helen lingers fondly.

Enjoy,
Gary