Viand Restaurant: a happy review(er)

Every once in a while, someone writes to bring an overlooked spot to the fore. And so it's my pleasure now to try to sprinkle a little LTH love on Viand. It’s a place I’d heard of but knew nothing about. It has apparently been through a number of iterations but I was still quite surprised to find virtually nothing in LTH archives. I write to remedy that omission and to shine the spotlight on a place that deserves more attention.

Last Saturday evening was an occasion in multiple ways. The Lovely Dining Companion chose the restaurant and arranged the evening. We went to Viand with another couple. I had never been and knew little about the place.

Steve Chiappetti, formerly of Café Le Coq in Oak Park and of Mango, downtown, is in charge. He’s been there since last fall and in early March, LDC happened to notice a very positive review by Phil Vettel. Though she’ll often point out reviews for discussion, she kept this one under her hat and I happened not to see it. It seems that out that Chiappetti is from a family that been in the meat business for a spell: the Chiappetti Lamb and Veal Company is a four-generation Chicago enterprise. He knows his meats and it certainly pays dividends for him and for us as well.

We had an early reservation at 6:30 and I know that at least three of us were startled to be led into the private dining room, just off to the side, between the bar and the main room. This cozy, very high-ceilinged room accommodated four perfectly (one wall is wine and the other has glass-paneled pocket doors) and could, I imagine, seat no more than twice that comfortably. Our server, though young, was well-informed and knew the menu well. He recited the several specials without reading from his notes, could answers our questions knowledgeably (we’ll discuss his one lapse later), and was personable without being intrusive.

The menu is divided into quarters: “first” covers the appetizers and then each of three sections offers entrees “from the water,” “from the farm,” and “from the land.” Each section contains about six well-devised choices. To highlight the last by way of example, the offerings included a four-cheese ravioli with white truffle sauce; a wild mushroom risotto; penne with peas, tomato, basil and mozzarella; and a tagine of root vegetables. Each section had variety as well as intrigue, without crossing the line.

Appetizers we chose were the peeky toe crab “salad” in a spicy carrot and curry soup, goat cheese and beet salad, pot stickers, and braised lamb ribs. The crab was just the right portion and soup complemented it nicely; I was very pleased with my choice. So too the others. So much so that I couldn’t cadge a taste and can only report clean plates. Our entrees reflected a range of dishes, allowing the kitchen to showcase its abilities. We ordered a leg of lamb special, a parmesan-crusted pork chop (with a mustard sauce, if I recall correctly), the tagine, and a fillet of sole wrapped around shrimp souffle. I’ll speak to the last first, since it was my dish. The nicely cooked sole was wrapped around a shrimp mousse, topped with two shrimp and sitting in a “puddle” of lobster hollandaise. Accompanying it was an artichoke/tomato ragout. I’m not completely convinced that the ragout was the right accompaniment...there was a sharpness to the dish that fought the rich mousse and hollandaise. And yet the dish as a whole was wonderful. I enjoyed the fish and the shrimp mousse very much. The presentation was stellar. Indeed, this is probably a good moment to note that the presentations and service both were excellent. The server was assisted throughout by a young woman and both took great care in presenting the plates. This was one of those times when the presentation was so carefully executed and the service so meticulous that the whole exceeded the sum of its parts, creating a delightful atmosphere and special feel.

Again, the others professed themselves very happy with each of their dishes and clean plates once again attested to the veracity of the claims. LDC was the only one to take (beautifully wrapped) leftovers, and the spiciness of the harissa broth may have been part of the reason (though I notice that it disappeared from the refrigerator in fairly short order).

My only real disappointment of the evening came when choosing a wine from the list. There was a very nice selection—not especially large, but well chosen and quite reasonably priced, with many bottles in the $30-50 range. (Also a big plus in my book, a wide selection of wines were available by 3 oz. and 6 oz. portions and there were even a number of splits offered.) I settled on an Alsatian pinot gris (Dopf au Moulin, 2004) and wanted to chat about it a little before ordering it since I had never had it. I phrased my initial comment so that the server could field it or defer to the sommelier if he felt out of his depth. The server fielded it himself but then said that he could only comment on wines he had personally tasted. He steered the discussion to the two bottles (a pinot gris from A to Z, in Oregon) and a Italian pinot grigio he knew about. He never answered my question and I was so non-plussed—my error—that I didn’t ask for the sommelier. Who knows? Maybe the sommelier wasn’t there. In the event, I went with the A to Z; fairness compels me to say that it was excellent and we were well pleased at how nicely it complemented my sole and my friend’s pork.

I save the best for last, as did LDC. Our server took coffee orders and after serving them said that when we were finished, he would take us to dessert. The three of us who knew nothing about what was in store looked at each other. LDC said nothing and the server said nothing. What on earth? Was he taking us to another room? To the main dining room? Would we have no say in our dessert?

As it turned out, no, we did not have any say in our dessert. After we had duly finished our coffees, cappuccinos, etc., our server escorted us out of the restaurant and into…a stretch limousine for a thirty-minute glide about town! Inside the limo, a plate with a selection of desserts and a bottle of sparkling wine on ice. We were taken down to Soldier Field, around by the Planetarium, up to Navy Pier, and then back to the restaurant. Golly. I mean, GOLLY!

The desserts (and the wine, for that matter) were fine but nothing I would make special note of. But the opportunity to feel like a big-shot, seeing the sights from inside a ridiculously comfortable (and quiet) perch. Wow! What a spectacular end to the meal and what a wonderful option, especially given the price (either $50 or $50/couple--there was some confusion, I was told later). LDC said, as I recall, that it is available only on Saturday nights, but I don’t find that an issue.

As impressive as the finish was, I post primarily to bring attention to a place that I think deserves far more attention than it has received. Indeed, one of Vettel’s points in his review was that the restaurant suffers on account of its location (it’s directly across from Bice, for those who know the neighborhood), east of Michigan. I don’t know if he’s right or wrong, but I do know that all four of us enjoyed our evening a great deal—even before the ride. We’ll be back.

Viand
155 E. Ontario
(312) 255-8505

Having read mixed reviews, we decided to try VIAND anyway due to the location on Saturday. We received a pleasant welcome and enjoyed the private dining room featuring sliding glass doors to close out the noisy bar patrons. The service was fine but the entrees were not well-executed: crab cakes featured shredded crab with lots of filler, the beet and goat cheese salad featured beets but no goat cheese, the house specialty of lamb shank tasted as though it was prepared several days ago and reheated just for me.
This restaurant has a good pedigree and good potential in a hot location. Unfortunately, they are failing to execute on the promise shown by the attractive room and location.

We were also there on Saturday and we really enjoyed it. the room is very nice, cozy and warm. Service was exceptional.
Hubby had the mussels appetizer, big plump mussels in a curry broth, I had the lamb ribs over a sweet/spicy slaw, the ribs were nicely tender and the slaw was a bit sweet for me, but still good. Hubby had the lamb shank, and it was very good we both thought, MUCH better than a lousy one at La Sardine a few weeks ago. We thought it was nicely braised, tender, juicy and very flavorful. I had the duck which came with tempura-type of green beans and a side of ground pork wrapped in more pork, fried. All were wonderful. Dessert was amazing, one of the best I have had, we shared the junk food cart, which had homemade oreo and twinkie, 2 huge cookies, one double chocolate, one chocolate chip, a brownie, a mini coke float and a homemade marshmallow. I have never had to take dessert leftovers home, especially when sharing, but we had to thistime. Everything in it was delicious. Our only disappointment was the wine list, wines by the glass were few and not so great. Service was excellent and when it took awhile to get the valet, they offered to buy us a hot toddy at the bar while we waited. Presentation was very creative too, we had a mini welcome easel with our name at our table, people next to us had the potstickers with a neat little wood statue as part of the presentation. Overall, we had a great time and would recommend it and would also go back.
LO

Had a holiday dinner for eight last night at Viand. It was fantastic. Every single person was happy with their food. The server was a little inexperienced, but, he made up for it by being good natured and attentive.

Starters included-
Steamed mussels (absolutely fantastic rendition)
Lamb ribs (very tender and flavorful)
Angry calamari (drizzled with a slightly spicy sauce, very good)
Fritter lollipops (with a nice chimmichurri sauce)

Entrees included-
Excellent half-duck rendition
Several people had various steaks, all cooked perfectly to order
Three people had salmon, all loved it

Desserts included-
Profiteroles, which were OK
Doughnut holes, very good
Flourless chocolate cake, very good

Good wine list, real good prices. This place is a winner. I am sorry it took me so long to try it out.

Interesting. Just to offer another thought, we were there this past Friday night just looking for something casual and had lame burgers, bad service, and obnoxiously bad (and LOUD) lounge singing. It was pretty much empty at 8:00p, although the music was brutal enough to justify that by itself.

My overall impression was one of a restaurant trying to be something it's simply not.

Coincidentally, I happened to come across Vettel's 3-star review today, and mentally noted how I almost always disagree with him (beyond the obvious).

Well, thankfully, there was no music whatsoever the night we were there. That would have pretty much ruined things. As I stated, our server was clearly inexperienced. Maybe they made sure some member of their A-team was in the kitchen for our largish party (the restaurant was otherwise sparsely populated). All I can say is everyone is our group was very happy with the food and 5 of the 9 diners are rather discerning with fine dining experience all over the planet.

Last night I suffered a letdown of enormous proportions after finally making my way to Viand. I'd seen Viand on televesion and the steaks looked legendary, the scene was lively and hip, and the tribute to the chef's family's lamb and veal business was much touted.

When i showed up for dinner at 9:30, there was only one other dining table occupied (this is in the heart of River North on a Saturday, mind you). That should have sent me elsewhere but i was adamant on trying those much-hyped lamb ribs.

1. It took 5 minutes for anyone to give a damn or a notice that my friend and i were waiting to be seated. No rush of any sort, mind you. There just wasn't anyone running the floor. lol.

2. For a restaurant run by a member of the Chiappetti family, i was surprised to see there were no veal dishes and the only lamb items were lamb chops and lamb ribs.. . wait. . it gets better.

3. They were out of lamb chops and a few other items because "they were soooooo busy" - really? there are two people dining at 9:30 and the place apparently had run out of several items.

4. The lamb ribs came to the table. COLD TO THE TOUCH. Not semi-hot. Not mildly warm. COLD. the exterior was cold. The inside meat was cold. It was as though it had been refridgerated. To make matters worse the taste was woeful. I try not to be mean in my reviews, but i will be honest. the lamb ribs smelled like a kitchen garbage can after you've left red meat in there all day. I almost walked out of the restaurant right there - something i have never done midmeal. I'm far from a drama queen. But that was unacceptable and insulting.

5. The only positives were the mac n cheese and the strip steak which was actually excellent and beefy. Cooked to perfection. The other appetizers (gouda fritter balls of some sort) was unremarkable.

6. The four cheese ravioli which was allegedly a huge hit with customers, was merely average. The truffle oil crossed the line of fragrantly elegant, and settled more on the dirty fungal-footy side. It just wasn't working and the ravioli seemed like it had been sitting for a while and reheated for our dinner. I had one and a half of them.

Given the experience I had, I'm not surprised this place was a ghost town at 9:30 on Saturday. I have never been this let down by a place i'd longed to eat at. I eventually palate cleansed by mouth and my mind with a filet o fish from McD's before I hit the sack that night.

Viand words. Viand help.

My parents seem to like the place (they have a weekend condo in the neighborhood), and it is a bit more affordable than many in the area... but the last couple times I've been it's been disappointing and depressing. My in-laws were in town in August and staying in the area, and made a reservation for a Saturday night. At 7pm. And we were still one of only 4 tables occupied during the time we were there. Yet it was loud because a bunch of loudmouth tourists from the attached hotel watching a game at the bar who seemed to be oblivious to the fact they were inside an upscale restaurant and not a sports bar, and the staff did nothing to remind them others might be trying to enjoy a quiet dinner. Them menu seems to be trimmed in size and interest since my first visit 3 or 4 years ago. It's now basically an urban version of Algauer's.

I was part of a special event at Viand this summer, and while service was excellent and the space worked very well for our needs, food was not a strong showing. Gristlepuck sliders, over-truffled pasta, quesadillas with barely chopped vegetables (like, whole chunks of raw onion and pepper), "seared" tuna that was cooked through, tomato dipping sauce drowning in a collar of melted butter. No "off" flavors per se, just no balance or prep aptitude; they had the right ingredients for something a step away from ordinary but really didn't seem to know what to do with them. It's hard to take much of value from a catering experience for projecting out a regular dinner, but in line with the other comments it seems like part of a trend.