Had an ahogada for lunch today, and was very pleased that when I asked for the sauce "hot," it actually came that way. Usually, I figure "hot" means kind of piquant, but the salsa in the French dip-type ahogada dish was really quite capsaicin-packed, got me kind of sweaty.

I think Xoco may have upped the heat on a bunch of things. I got an open faced breakfast torta recently, and it had way more diced hot peppers than the last version. As usual, the egg was perfectly poached, and the sandwich was delicious. I also picked up a couple of very nice pastries: pan de muerto (essentially an anise-flavored concha) and a scone with lime peel and dried cherries. Xoco does a good job with pastries, and prices them lower than crap you get all over the hood at places like Starbucks. The line at Xoco is shorter in the morning than at Starbucks too.

In the department of ridiculous prices at Xoco, I did get a kick out of this:

Anyone wondering what to get Bill for Christmas?

I purposely avoided Xoco in its early days, hoping for the crowds to die down a bit. The other day El Panzone and I showed up at 3:30, half past caldo time (soups are served only after 3pm). Not a single person in line so it was a breeze to order and get a table. We split a bowl of belly-vermicelli and a torta ahogada.



The caldo ($12) is nicely presented, garnished with fresh-as-can-be arugula and toasted sesame seeds. Submerged beneath the rich, chili-spiked broth are still-firm noodles and discs of zucchini. This soup didn't taste like it had been sitting around at all. The star of the bowl was the pork belly—tender slabs with a pleasant adiposity. A terrific bowl of soup that would be a perfect meal on a cold, blustery day.

I'll join in the praise for Xoco's torta ahogada ($9.50), a sandwich that's so often poorly executed in these parts. The whole grain bread may not be exactly traditional but the crusty loaf is probably closer in spirit to the birote of Guadalajara than the soft bolillos often used here.



The vertical presentation is unorthodox but it's thoughtful as well as visually arresting. Having only the sandwich ends submerged allows the eater to control the degree of salsa saturation as well as making this famously messy sandwich much easier to eat. The sandwich wasn't overflowing with carnitas but I thought it was tasty and balanced.

We ordered chocolate and churros which were brought out after our plates were cleared (service could not have been better for this type of restaurant).



I doubt I've averaged more than of cup of hot chocolate a year over the last decade but I have a feeling my consumption rate is about to increase. I think it's pretty much unanimous that Xoco's chocolate is superb. I much prefer the basic "Authentic" to the chili-spiked "Aztec" version (both $2.50). Churros (3 for $3) were fine but not something I can work up much enthusiasm for.

This was our first stop on a day-long gringo tour of Chicago Mexican food. After Xoco we stopped at Big Star to sample some tacos, beer and bourbon. This was followed by a brisk walk down Damen to Bar Deville for cocktails made by the ace bartenders from Cleveland's Velvet Tango Room. Sure enough the Tamale Guy stopped in with his usual excellent wares. Finally on the way to the Loop, we made a brief stop at La Pasadita for a carne asada nightcap. They were really in top form (no microwaved meat) that night. Purists might have a quibble here or there but I couldn't care less—that was one fine day of eating and drinking.

Xoco
449 N Clark St (entrance on Illinois)
Chicago
312-334-3688

Big Star
1531 N Damen Av
Chicago
773-235-4039

Bar DeVille
701 N Damen Av
Chicago
312-929-2349

La Pasadita
1141 N Ashland Av
Chicago
773-278-0384

quick FYI -- anyone who gets a bottled soda should check their bill. I got one of the Izze selections yesterday and while the board/menu says $2.50, the register rang up $3.50.

I protested and after double and triple checking the board and bringing over the manager, they took the dollar off.

If you go, check the board to see if it now says $3.50. Next time I'll most likely be having water.

It’s been a month-and-a-half since my last visit to Xoco and I stopped by after work tonight to sample the pozole. When I arrived at 5:30 there were three people in front of me waiting to order and there was no waiting for a seat (had there been I wouldn’t have been able to order, an operations improvement since my last visit).

Pozole with Chicken – Bayless Interpretation



The pozole Xoco offers is advertised as the “blanco” variety, distinguished by a clear broth, with chicken. Gunthorp Chicken.

To make what could be a long story short – I’ll say that what I was served only slightly resembled pozole as that dish is served in Mexico or Mexican restaurants in Chicago - from what I've experienced. What it did resemble, and what I’d describe it as is Caldo de Pollo, with chicken that had an off-putting taste and a small amount of corn in it . . . and some vegetable bits floating on the top of the bowl. The broth was flavorful, though. To me, it wasn’t worth the price charged ($11.50) and I think it just one more example of misrepresentations of "Mexican street food" Bayless makes at Xoco.

A bottle of Half Acre Lager accompanied my meal and I chose a fruit tart for dessert. The apple/berry tart was the best thing I ate during the visit (the cost of which was approx. $25).

Forgive me if it was quoted above already, but Rick Bayless chimed in last October on what makes XOCO street-food like in a blog post a few weeks back:
My Take On Street Food

Can anyone add more info on how the hot chocolates are made? To order or premade?

This isn't really what you asked for, but it does answer your question, sort of...

http://chicago.timeout.com/articles/res ... -chocolate

Mike G wrote:This isn't really what you asked for, but it does answer your question, sort of...

http://chicago.timeout.com/articles/res ... -chocolate

Yeah, i googled first and found that. Interesting, but not helpful in a practical sense. Bean to cup concept is pretty cool though. Wonder how much that grinder costs?

Bayless was on WGN news this morning grinding cacao beans at Xoco

Went in yesterday morning for the chocolate/churros and was pretty astonished at how bad the hot chocolate was - we had the authentic and the aztec, and between two of us we managed only about a third of each. They both smelt - and tasted - distinctly of vinegar. We didn't complain on the grounds that it might well have been deliberate (although I've had a lot of hot chocolate, and a lot of "Mexican" hot chocolate, I haven't had it anywhere with any claims to authenticity, so I'm prepared to believe that this is how it's supposed to be). Has anyone else noticed this? I really tried to get into it, but I just couldn't stomach it in the end.

weird, I didn't have that experience at all. I loved the Aztec. I highly doubt there's vinegar anywhere near them....... so I don't know what to tell you. Bad batch?

Yeah, something had to have been off in this case, because I've had the Aztec twice and both times it was rich and creamy with just the slightest bit of spicy kick, and smelled only of molten dark chocolate.

Oh well - guess we should have sent them back! I guess we may try them again, then - it had rather put me off the whole place.

tsg20 wrote:Went in yesterday morning for the chocolate/churros and was pretty astonished at how bad the hot chocolate was...both smelt - and tasted - distinctly of vinegar.

Holy crap, Rick, we're out of the chile molido picante for the Azteca, and there's a line 40 gringos deep!

[steels nerves] Get the Tabasco. Now.

My second visit today, and I ordered the ahogada, spicy. Perhaps I'm the only one to feel this way, but I thought this torta was a disappointment. The tomato broth, which had none of the onions like in turkob's picture below, was one-dimensional and tasted only of spiced vinegar. (I would say these were canned tomatoes acidified by vinegar, but I thought I saw Bayless tweet some pictures some time ago of frozen tomatoes that they're using in winter.) Anyway, the carnitas -- of which there were too little -- were bland as well, so in essence, this tasted mostly of vinegar-soaked bread. There was a good amount of heat to the broth, and the although the bread had a nice crunch, it will quickly soften and break apart if not eaten quickly.


(turkob's picture)

Maybe the ahogada is best ordered when tomatoes are in season. If so, I might give it another try, but only because I know that tomato season is about nine months from now.

So far: Caldos, 1; tortas, 0.

Rene G wrote:I much prefer the basic "Authentic" to the chili-spiked "Aztec" version (both $2.50).

This visit, I ordered the "Authentic" instead of the "Aztec," which I had last time, and I very much agree. I thought the Authentic had more body and more flavor than the spiced Aztec version.

Hey, I had an ahogada, spicy yesterday too. I liked mine more. Wendy, I do see your point about single dimension-ness in the sauce, but I liked that. It was so over the top, in your face, nearly un-pleasant in flavor, just like a good ahogada should be. With the pickled onions, this was one endiorphin inducing sandwich.

On the subject of fillings, I know here have been complaints about the portion sizes. I did not find this. Obviously, this is not a cheap meal, but for the quality of ingredients and attention to detail, not a bad value.

Clocking in at 8 dollars and damn tasty was my choriqueso sandwich tonight at Xoco. No real wait, perhaps ten minutes for the sandwich. Plenty of really nice, different, smoky chorizo. Roasted peppers very solid. Little cup of green, herb-y salsa on the side lent some nice contrast. Plenty of each topping, this time. Absolutely worth it. Guacamole was pretty good, but maybe only worth four bucks if you're pretty hungry...

Made it in to Xoco for the second time yesterday (I checked it out during the first week, had some cochinita pibil). I timed my day to end up in River North just in time for the 3pm switchover to caldos, on an appropriately chilly and wet day. After much indecision, which was not helped by the 30 minute line, I ordered up a bowl of chips (since I knew I'd be waiting, starving, at my seat for a while) and the pork belly with vermicelli caldo. Chips and salsa were fantastic - especially the tomatillo salsa. Soup arrived about 10 minutes later, a portion size as big as everyone has claimed. At this point in my life on this day, nothing could've been more satisfying. Sesame seed-riddled broth, big hunks of soft, succulent belly meat, avocados, arugula, zucchini, noodles ... it had it all. After pounding the chips and nearly finishing the soup, I was warm and ready for another six hours of shopping. And, it kept me full the whole time. Not cheap, but worth $17 for a fancy lunch (chips, caldo, and a cookie to go).

I think its also worth giving some credit to the staff at Xoco. They really understand that their audience is largely foodie-ish; I noticed many fine dining service hallmarks as I stood in line and was taken care of, as well. Food explanation upon delivery, in particular, was nice. And despite the mid-afternoon crowd, the chaos was remarkably well-controlled. Glad that the buzz has remained strong, and the pace has not diminished anything - in fact, the opposite is seemingly the case.

Vital Information wrote:... I know here have been complaints about the portion sizes. I did not find this. Obviously, this is not a cheap meal, but for the quality of ingredients...

Back to the original concept:

Wasn't this supposed to be 'street food', i.e. affordable by everyday people.

Something that you could pick up on the run and nosh without having to think about anything aside from your next destination?

It seems that, with all the media hoopla, this is a failed project and Bayless, in his infinite wisdom, should fold it.

(with apologies to all the proper gramaraticians out there)

Interesting viewpoint, but I don't know that this particular "street food" concept was ever necessarily intended to be affordable to most everyone. Also, anything Bayless does is going to generate hoopla whether he wants it or not.
(the question is: Why am I responding to this, and stating the painfully obvious to boot?)

bean wrote:It seems that, with all the media hoopla, this is a failed project and Bayless, in his infinite wisdom, should fold it.

Hilarious.

Let's be real: his calling it "street-food-inspired" was never a binding contract with any sort of governing body or the public at large...at least I don't remember signing anything in the presence of witnesses & a notary.

Plus, whether he calls Xoco his street food concept, or French patisserie, or Santa's toy shop*, he's got people lining up everyday to hand over their money...definitely sounds like a failed project to me. I'm sure he'll be boarding the windows up any day now.

*Credit to mrbarolo...your line cracked me up!

It's a business. If it makes money -- or even breaks even -- while adequately and properly taking care of its customers, employees and supplier relationships, it's a success. I don't think any other measure is the least bit relevant.

=R=

Really? I imagine there have been plenty of businesses Rick Bayless has been presented with which could have made him boatloads of money, but which he would not consider successes from the point of view of the things that really matter to him.

That said, Xoco is his vision clearly and precisely realized, and it has lines out the door, and it's hard to imagine he sees that as anything but a great success, and should.

Mike G wrote:Really? I imagine there have been plenty of businesses Rick Bayless has been presented with which could have made him boatloads of money, but which he would not consider successes from the point of view of the things that really matter to him.

You're making an entirely different point, with which I also happen to agree. But it's difficult to discuss the hypothetical businesses of others. I don't know Rick Bayless at all, so I have no idea if you're right or not.

My point, which I thought was clear, is that as long as it's not losing lots of money, Xoco is unlikely to be shuttered due to perceived 'artistic failure.'

=R=

Bayless has had hundreds of opps to do things-there have been some misteps, but overall he's had good control over what will work, and what can be done properly. If he sold his existing product at xoco for cheap, it wouldn't work profit-wise. If he sold cheap ingredients for low prices he probably couldn't do it in River North. Bean sounds like he's calling elitism on something that never really promised to feed the hungry masses in a casual, quick-pick-up, don't-think-about-it-much-way. There are other places for that. There's some baiting going on here: "infinite wisdom" for example.
(A term that should only apply to Stewed Coot)

the one thing Bayless that I don't get is the Frontera frozen pizza. How it relates to anything else in his empire is beyond me. All I can see is a crass money grab aimed at Whole Foods shoppers (of which I am one).

the one thing Bayless that I don't get is the Frontera frozen pizza. How it relates to anything else in his empire is beyond me. All I can see is a crass money grab aimed at Whole Foods shoppers (of which I am one).

. . .not to mention that it's not very good. The crust is just awful. As a fan/patron for over 20 years, I was hugely disappointed by that stuff. (I don't think his bottled sauces are very good, either. I tried a chilpotle variety that had a nasty metallic taste; it was so off-putting that straight down the disposal it went. Better just to use his salsa recipes, instead. And avoid his 'Salsas that Cook!' which is more a cross-marketing tool for his bottled salsas than an actual cookbook.)

bean wrote:

Vital Information wrote:... I know here have been complaints about the portion sizes. I did not find this. Obviously, this is not a cheap meal, but for the quality of ingredients...

Back to the original concept:

Wasn't this supposed to be 'street food', i.e. affordable by everyday people.

Something that you could pick up on the run and nosh without having to think about anything aside from your next destination?

It seems that, with all the media hoopla, this is a failed project and Bayless, in his infinite wisdom, should fold it.

(with apologies to all the proper gramaraticians out there)

"street food" not "fast food". I think you're thinking of Wendy's.

I was on my own for dinner last night and was planning on heading to Brasserie Jo, but at the minute I called and audible and decided to check out Xoco instead (hardly any line at about 6:15pm). Boy was that a good choice.

I had one of the caldos...the carnitas. What a brilliant bowl of soup this was. From the Xoco menu:

Slow-cooked pork carnitas, potato-masa dumplings, chayote, roasted serrano chile, spinach, arugula, avocado

You could taste the quality of the produce being used in this soup. The chayote provided a great textural counterpoint to everything else in this dish which tended towards the mushy (which isn't really a bad thing here). The potato-masa dumplings were phenomenal, nicely absorbing the rich and spicy broth. The pork was perfect, salty and slightly fatty. This is not meant to be street food. If anything, it's a higher end interpretation of street food (and that's a good thing IMO).

Just a great dinner on a cold night.