What is striking about dining in Phoenix is how all the food derives from somewhere else. What do the natives eat? Tumbleweed? (Yes, I gather there are a few places to get Navaho Fry Bread.) But for the most part I dined on soul food (smothered fried chicken, yam, collards, and lemonade) at Mrs. White's Golden Rule Cafe, where the yams were particularly impressive, and, then, wonderful fried catfish, lovely savory baked beans, good hot links, impressive sweet potato pie, and so-so North Carolina style chopped pork BBQ at Restaurant 28 BBQ (North Carolina Style BBQ and Soul Food) in Glendale.
Mrs. White's Golden Rule Cafe

Inside of Mrs. White's

Smothered Fried Chicken at Mrs. White's

Perhaps the most interesting non-gelateria of the visit was Pittsburgh Willy's, a booth tucked inside an antique mall in Chandler. There the owner Randy Walters serves his own style of Pittsburgh confections: pierogies with a peppery sour cream, a cheesy chili (not exactly Cincinnati style, but certainly not Southwestern - ground beef, but no beans, and lots of melted cheese), and a hot dog with Pittsburgh style chopped ham (and cheese). All of it was quite extraordinary and delicious as out-of-place street food.
For whatever historical reason, the Valley of the Sun is the home to numerous competing gelato outfits (seemingly more popular than ice cream). I decided to attempt a gelato-a-thon. Without question my favorite was Arlecchino Gelateria: artisan dulce de leches, cortina (almonds and lingonberries), amarena (cherries and cream), and coconut with bits of chocolate. With well-trained Italian owners (owner Moreno Spangaro trained as a gelato maker for a year in Italy), they consider gelato-making an art. The scoops transcended any American gelato that I have eaten. Unfortunately they were not serving my very favorite flavor (from the last time in Phoenix): Valentino, made with rose petals, lavender, and pomegranate juice: among my top ten foods in my life, but not available this time. I read online that there have been attempts to filch their recipes, a scandal that Arizonans refer to as "gelato-gate." I can believe it.
I also had some fine gelato at Angel Sweet (a deep, smooth chocolate, mango, tropical delight, and a smoky, burnt panna cotta): all impressive. Gelato 64 is known for having 64 flavors of gelato, and the counter girl let me try about a dozen. I wasn't taken by the texture of the gelato, but I did admire the Black Seseme and the Sunshine (Orange-Pineapple-Mango). Finally, lowest of the gelato food chain was the Gelato Spot where neither the texture nor the flavor appealed (I had Banana and also Amarena). Gelato Spot will only give customers one flavor in a small dish, whereas Gelato 64 and Arlecchino permitted two, and Angel Sweet generously allowed three. On this trip I missed getting to That's Amore in Scottsdale, another Italian-based gelateria that has an excellent reputation.
Mrs. White's Golden Rule Cafe
808 E. Jefferson, Phoenix
602-262-9256
Restaurant 28
5025 W. Olive Ave., Glendale
623-929-1388
Pittsburgh Willy's
1509 N. Arizona Avenue
480-857-2860
Arlecchino Gelateria
4410 N. 40th Street, Phoenix
602-955-2448
Gelato Spot
3164 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix
602-957-8040
Angel Sweet Gelato
1900 W. Chandler Blvd., Chandler
480-722-2541
Gelato 64
2095 N. Dobson Road, Chandler
480-726-6472
Toast, as every breakfaster knows, isn't really about the quality of the bread or how it's sliced or even the toaster. For man cannot live by toast alone. It's all about the butter. -- Adam Gopnik