Willie got the barbecue year started right for us yesterday; I had been 'cuefasting since
Market Barbecue early last week, thinking about the right place for a kickoff. In addition to smelling like the gates of heaven (one hopes), the remodel has really opened the place up, while getting the seating away from the draft. Just about the only thing they're missing now is a big picture window off the dining room to let the neighborhood see what kind of fun and chow is going on in here.
The offerings at Honky Tonk have laudable variability and home-cooked interest; for this type of setup, there is an artisanal quality to the output that reminds me of a traditional pit. As a consequence, you'll get some cuts that are drier and chewier, or delightful pockets of silky fat, that I find scienced-out at other places like Smoque. It's hard to exceed your expectations when they're met just in the middle every time. At Honky Tonk, you get nights that bring a smile to your face. Brisket was richly smoked with a beautiful ring and dusty rub that had not burned in the slightest; pork carried less smoke but was remarkably moist and piggy, and it paired ever so well with the award-winning mustard sauce, a favorite among handcrafted sauces in the city.
Sides continue to be unique and well done. Garlic mashed potatoes with cream, packaged in a Chinese takeout box, might have been potato mashed garlic for the intensity of flavor. The 'what your girlfriend wants salad' (from the 'pain in the pork butt vegetarian' section of the menu) still features plump berries, sweet jicama, and goat cheese with a tangy mustard dressing. A crown on the order was the banana pudding, with perfectly ripe fruit, strong vanilla flavor, and succulent yolky pudding smothering a delicious cookie-cake bed.
Even in winter, Honky Tonk evokes a summer camp kitchen to me, with family and friends busily working on scratch recipes to feed a throng up front. It has remained a charming, friendly operation where you can find actual smoke permeating everything that needs it, making ordering the core meats as enjoyable as the stewed, baked, and braised options.