Hi bjt--
Oysters and shanks are by no means mutually exclusive. The full details of our trip were something like this.
9 am Monday: Leave Chicago (Hyde Park) and drive about as far as Racine on I-94 before deciding we were already hungry. Exit I-94 and head into Racine for lunch at Kewpie's. Walk around Racine and decide we should really return some other time because it is surprisingly vibrant and lovely.
Noon: Arrive Milwaukee and check into the Hilton. Go for a swim at the indoor water park.
4 pm: Go for a walk to the public market, which is about 6 or 7 blocks walk from the Hilton and is very kid-friendly. Most of the stands are take-away and there is a pleasant seating area on the second floor. I think we had a light snack and then kept walking into the historic third ward. I also took note of the oyster bar at one end of the market, for future reference.
5 pm: While walking through historic third ward, youngest daughter falls asleep in stroller. The future is now. Leave wife shopping in Anthropologie and bring daughters back to oyster bar. Daddy orders a dozen oysters. Very nice woman who runs the counter offers to have even nicer woman at the stove fry some fish for older daughter who thinks that between the fish, the sitting at the counter, and the free oyster crackers, this is the best thing that has happened to her since the hotel with a water park.
6 pm: Wife joins us, has a few oysters of her own. Little one wakes up.
6: 30 pm: Time for dinner at Ratzsch. See previous post.
8:00 pm Back to Hilton for another quick trip to water park.
8:00 am next morning: Mommy wakes up with headache. Daddy runs down to hotel shop. Amid $9 bottles of Advil, I find a $2 packet of "Dr. Goody's headache powders." Inspect to make sure it hasn't been there since the hotel opened in the 1920s. Decide it's legit. Mommy very dubious.
9 am: Back to water park.
Noon: Check out of hotel and drive to lakeshore. Park and go into Milwaukee Art Museum, whose main entry hall is one of the greatest contemporary spaces I have entered. Only Koolhas' new Seattle Public library had a similarly profound an effect on me. Youngest one falls asleep again. Decide to have lunch at Museum cafe, in the new wing. This was delightful. Interesting menu with some eastern european dishes inspired by the current exhibit. Excellent beer on tap. Fabulous architecture. I could not have been happier. The weather was delightful that day and the girls not in the mood for an art museum, so my wife went in to the exhibit and I took the girls out on the lawn to play in the suggestive curves of the pillars holding up the museum. They curve up where they meet the ground and the girls thought hey were thrones in some kind of cloud palace.
3 pm: Drive south into Bayshore neighborhood, which we passed through on the way into town (we took local roads north from Racine). Went to the very cool branch of the public library and hung out for a while.
5 pm: Thought about hitting Three Brothers Serbian place for dinner but girls didn't seem ready for sit down dinner. Back to public market for dinner. Had a somewhat mediocre takeout dish for the Italian place there and some good lavender ice cream. Stocked up on discounted post-Easter bunnies from Kehr’s.
6 pm: Hit the road for Chicago. Record video of two-year-old saying “I Like Mi-Wau-kee” in cutest possible way. Wondering if we should send it to Milwaukee Convention and Visitor’s Bureau.