festive Colombian/Argentinean meat-centric meal

Hi:

My husband likes meat and healthy slabs of it for special occasions. His birthday is in a week, last year I "took" him to Tango Sur, which doesn't take reservations and they quoted at one hour and 45 minutes. The baby sitter clock was tick-tocking loudly so we went quickly left that option and made our way happily to Katsu and had a glorious, amazing meal. (And that wasn't just my opinion. )

But, this year my better half would like to try once more to enjoy grilled meats a la South American style without having to go downtown to the Fogo de Chao scene which we think is a little over the top in terms of portions and all that. Oh and we don't need our meat served on a sword, we just want good food in a lively environment.

What do you suggest? I am wondering about La Pena, that sounds festive. We go to La Fonda on Broadway so we don't want to hit that.

Thanks!

bjt

there is a huge difference between colombian/argentinian/brazilian. any preferences? the types of food served in colombian in Chicago seem to be the good, simple food, nothign too fancy, but there are a few places with party atmosphere. brazilian and argentinian focus on quality meat usually, and are usually a little less "festive"

It's not South American, but La Casa de Samuel definitely has a meat focused menu, and is a festive, celebratory place.


picture courtesy of Santander

globetrotter wrote:there is a huge difference between colombian/argentinian/brazilian. any preferences? the types of food served in colombian in Chicago seem to be the good, simple food, nothign too fancy, but there are a few places with party atmosphere. brazilian and argentinian focus on quality meat usually, and are usually a little less "festive"

IN genernal, can you give you tell me the difference in how these South American cuisines. I know they must exist, but i'm ignorant of what they are. I went to a Colombian spot on Irving Park a few years ago and the menu seemed "pretty Argentinian" to me, if that makes sense. I was curious if there is a difference in preparation or common spices.

Thanks.

Oh, to the original poster, you may want to check out Folklore, a new joint by the owner of Tango Sur. I believe its in Wicker Park. I haven't been there yet, but I've heard good things.

Ghazi, that's a complicated question to answer in a general way. Somewhat more like asking about the differences among Korean, Japanese and Mandarin foods than, say the difference between US and Canadian.

Brazil is a huge county with various regional cuisines, the most remarkable of which combine West African influences with indigenous and Iberian traditions. In general, there is not a "maize culture" present in Brazilian food in contrast to, say, Mexicano, Gutemalteca, Peruano. Bahian food (from the Brazilian state of Bahia), for instance, has more in common with Cuban than it does with food from Uruguay or Argentina, two nearby places. Colombia has both Caribbean and Pacific coasts and a bit more focus on corn (arepas and tamales are staples). Argentina has nearly no indigenous culture left, and little or no African diaspora, and it shows in the food. Argentina is much more European and white, with Italian and German immigrants providing most of the population boom of the last century in addition to the Spaniards who founded the place. Thus, gnocchi is an Argentine staple, as is pizza.

Now then, one common theme among all of these places is a "cowboy culture." In fact, the pampas cultures of Argentina and Brazil are somewhat contiguous (not unlike Texas-northern Mexico). Each country has beefsteak-focused places that grill simply-seasoned grass-fed meat. The differences in the food culture will show up more in the side dished than the steaks.

A reason US eaters might not see differences among these foods is because immigrants open steak places knowing they will appeal to US customers. (A good example is the Peruvian restaurant Machu Pichu at Byron and Ashland. They opened with a full Peruano menu with things like tripe in peanut sauce. It was largely empty until they put up a gaudy sign advertising the spot as a "churrasqueria steakhouse." MP now has a steady stream of Tango Sur runoff customers in addition to Peruvian families and dates. I have mixed feelings about that place. Wild inconsistency in food and service (both can be very good) has led me to give up on MP for now.)

There's a wealth of information about each of these cuisines on LTH. Happy reading.

I don't disagree with what Jeff said. here's how I would put it

there are big differences between andean, coastal, pampas and brazilian cuisines, based on the indiginous culture, the immigrant culture and the local climate and how that effects food production.

colombian is usually coastal and andean. coastal is going to be something similar, but not identical to, what you might expect of cuban type cuisine - beans and rice, fish, plaintains, turtle, food with coconut. you will find very similar food in the coastal regions of venesuals, panama, and other parts of central and northern south america, each with differences, though.

the mountain cuisine of colombia is "hardier" - beans and rice (no getting away from that) but also potatos, pork, heavy meat stews, root vegetables, temperate (less tropical) fruit. in chicago, a lot of colombian resteraunts have a mix of this, but also focus on roast chicken, which in colomibia is a sub-set of the food.

brazil is a huge country, with a lot of foreign influences. the main food types that are exported are the meat grill places, and the beans. the meat is served typically at all you can eat, but where the waiters walk around and slice off piece of meat. to compare it to the US meat culture

1. usually much more well done
2. thinner cuts of meat
3. grass fed beef

the beans are black beans that are cooked as a stew with multiple types of meat, usualy solted beef and smoked pork

argintinian also has a lot of imported influnces, but the indiginous cuisine that is exported is usually grilled meat, again, grass fed, thinner, more well done. but sold in larger pieces, not like in brazil.

does that help?

PS, I added some info to my above post after pressing submit too early. Sorry to be confusing.

not only that, but to add to what Jeff said, you might not see the diffence so much in the US version of the resteraunts because some of these are very dependent on the quality of the produce - fresh argentinian beef is very different from american beef, a lot of the common preserved meats in brazil aren't available here at all, etc.

My apologies for lumping Argentina and Colombia together. It was late and I was thinking of the two types of restaurants that we enjoy. We really like El Llano but it just seems too simple/mellow for a special night out. I would have to say that I lean more toward Colombian, love all the sides (arepas, the salsas etc) and my husband like the Euro twang of Argentina. We both adore empanadas no matter where they come from!

I will look further into Folklore and still would love to hear anyone's thoughts/experiences with La Pena. Thanks!

bjt

I have enjoyed many excellent steaks at Las Tablas, especially Entraña a cut similar to skirt steak (though a bit thicker). The meat was perfectly cooked to med-rare, juicy and well-seasoned. Compared to most of the Columbian steakhouses in Chicago the setting is downright upscale with proffessional service to match. While not officially BYOB (they have a full bar), corkage is waived Monday through Wednesday and is a modest $8 per bottle the remainder of the week.

2942 N. LINCOLN AVE
CHICAGO, IL 60657
773.871.2414
773.404.8102

I didn't even see this thread mentioning Argentine food & Tango Sur before I posted my other one. Not like the 2 are related, but it still made me smile. To the OP. Tango Sur makes a wonderful meal, But I'd recommend going early in the week if you've got a babysitter clock ticking. Wait time is usually less than 30 minutes. Especially in the summer when they've got tons of outdoor seating.

I've enjoyed a nice meal at El Nandu in Logan Square a while back. The empanadas were good as well as the beef. It had a low key, but nice atmosphere-- kind of romantic. Probably not as festive as you are looking, but they do have live music after 7 on TH, F, and S, and they take reservations. When I went over a year ago, I remember it just being a nice Argentine guitar music-- nothing too intrusive.
We enjoyed our meal there, of course this was before I went to Argentina to taste the real beef... yum.

Here is a thread about El Nandu and the last thread compares it to Las Tablas:

http://lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2978&hilit=el+nandu

El Nandu
2731 W Fullerton Ave

I would have to say that I lean more toward Colombian, love all the sides (arepas, the salsas etc) and my husband like the Euro twang of Argentina. We both adore empanadas no matter where they come from!

Not so much "slabs" of beef but some good grilled and marinated cuts with interesting accmpaniments at the Ciolombian La Fonda. Good empanadas, too. Check out the menu here:

http://chicago.menupages.com/restaurants/la-fonda/menu

How about El Primo Canto in Edgebrook?

BJT,

If you are leaning toward Brazil meat-centric I recommend Al Primo Canto which, while all you care to eat, is less expensive and considerably more subdued than Fogo de Chao. Lamb, beef and chicken are served family style along with salads, three types of pasta, polenta frita and gorgonzola potatoes. Pasta course reflects Italian influence of the wife/co-owner, baba ghanoush Lebanese of husband/co-owner.

Full bar, reasonably price wine, beef and lamb may be ordered rare and there is a full menu, including seafood, for those who do not wish to order the $29.95 "Endless Feast" I am a fan of Al Primo Canto, food is good, prices reasonable, owners friendly, interactive and the space is comfortable and attractive.

Enjoy,
Gary

Al Primo Canto Galeteria
5414 W. Devon Ave.
Chicago, IL
773-631-0100

Wow: I had no clue at all about this Al Primo Canto, somehow missed it in my lth surfing . . . this seems really pretty perfect. We both adore lamb and my husband loves a "mixed grill." He could get the all you can eat and I can go al la carte . . . .Plus, we always are intrigued by cultures coming together so the whole Lebanese Brazilian thing is good too.

Well, I have a few more days to decide (we go out on Saturday night) but this one looks really good. No empanadas but I can pick some up from El Mercado Friday night and we can enjoy them with the kids.

I will report back, wherever we go. (I'm still open to suggestions . . . and as you can see have widened my geographic circle beyond Argentina and Colombia.)

Thanks again.

bjt

I'm not very experienced with these cuisines but I'd also definitely recommend Al Primo Canto. I've thoroughly enjoyed my meals there and it seems like it'd be a good match atmosphere-wise, too.

=R=

Ok, I made a reservation for Sat eve at Al Primo Canto . . . I will report back. If I can figure out how to post photos I will share those too. Looking forward to it!

bjt

I appreciate all the feedback on my question. Thanks!

While I don't know if I can articulate it, I do appreciate the difference between Colombian and Argentinian cuisine. Exquisite beef is central to both, but ... I'm inclined to say, just based on recollection, that steak is less the centerpiece of the meal in Colombia than it is in Argentina. Again, I don't know if I can articulate what I remember about the two ... I think I'd say an Argentinian steak dinner is simpler in the sides, while with a Colombian steak dinner the sides matter as much as the meat. That said, a serious beef craving can also be satisfied very well at a Brazilian-style churrascaria.

These are the three largest and most populous countries in South America, and beef is an important part of the cuisine of each, so I don't think you can go wrong with a high-quality steak dinner from any Argentinian, Colombian, or Brazilian restaurant.

Kind of a shame, though, that so much of the high-quality beef of the region is actually raised in Uruguay, and exported for consumption elsewhere, because who wants to go to a Uruguayan restaurant? I remember that when I lived in Chile, none of the beef I saw in the grocery store was domestically raised; it was all imported from Uruguay. Beautifully marbled beef it was, too.

Are there any Uruguayan restaurants in Chicago? (And why wouldn't you want to go to one?) My husband has an odd affection for Uruguay and jokes about moving there one day. Just curious.

bjt

Not that I wouldn't go to an Uruguayan restaurant if I knew of one - I'm sure the steaks would be great, for one thing. I just meant that, despite being a supplier of high-quality beef to neighboring countries, its cuisine doesn't have the name recognition that Brazilian and Argentinian cuisine have.

So we went to al Primo Canto last night. Overall, we had a very satisfying and festive-feeling meal. I don't know how I got it in my head that it was a small space (nothing in the previous comments suggest so, I am just cuckoo I guess) anyhow so we were both surprised at how big and bustling it is. I did like the exposed beams and stone walls but the one giant room with lots of tables tucked in with one another felt a little like Reza's (but with much warmer decor and service). Anyhow, the place was completely full but they had our table ready for us.

My husband ordered the all you can eat option and I ordered a baked squid appetizer and lobster-stuffed ravioli. I was waffling on whether to order a salad but the waiter told me I didn't need to -- that he would be bringing one for my husband and we could just share that and if we needed more salad he would just bring more. Nice!

First came the little rolls and pita and the baba ganoush. The baba ganoush was lovely, creamy and smokey but I was a little perplexed by the rolls. They were pretty elastic on the inside, they didn't taste raw in the middle but they didn't seem totally cooked either. So I just enjoyed the pita. They brought Ted three small plates of pasta, a red sauce, a mushroom sauce and an olive oil and garlic. They were just fine, not bad, not exciting, kind of meh. My baked squid was in a tomato sauce with capers and olives and it was briny in a good way. There was a nice lull between these first three starters before the entrees came and I was glad for that. (We didn't finish the pasta because we knew more food was coming, esp I knew I had ravioli coming.) Oh and they had a band playing which sounded almost identical to the music they play between comments on Check, Please! "I feel so Check, Please!" my husband joked.

Then they brought the meat, polenta "fries" and blue cheese potatoes for my husband, and the green salad as well. The minute I saw all of his food I knew that he had totally ordered the right thing. The lamb and beef were cooked perfectly rare, like poster child rare and tucked underneath was a layer of green beans and pearl onions cooked al dente. The chicken was great too, with a crispy almost blackened skin and super juicy. Oh and then there were the polenta fries. They are big planks even bigger than a steak fry and they were crispy on the outside and fluffy almost creamy inside. Heavenly! As I said, the tables are set pretty close together and we had an 8 top to our left. Closest to me were two guys who also had the AYCE meal and I heard one of them point at the polenta and say, "What are those?" and the other one said "I don't know," and shrugged them off. I could not help but lean over (I am going to be a terror when I am 70) and tell them that they really had to try them. So they did and they almost did girly eye rolls and then started making the women to their left try them "Taste these, wow! What do you call these again?" one of them asked me. "Polenta," I smiled.

Anyhow, my husband's meal was great, the roasted potatoes with blue cheese sauce were kind of tired tasting but it didn't matter at all because we were loving the polenta.

My ravioli was good but I stupidly ordered two dishes in a row in a red tomato sauce. And I just kept nibbling on my husband's plates. Between the two of us we ate all of the beef and lamb and one of the two chicken pieces. They did not in any way "police" people about sharing the AYCE, it's almost like you're eating family style. The tables around us were sharing theirs as well. If we return I will just order the a la carte version or an entree of something grilled because the meats seem to be where the magic is happening. The waiter came and asked if Ted wanted any more meat but he said no thank you. I thought the service was excellent, actually. The place was packed and we never felt rushed and the waiter and expediters didn't seem harried.

After clearing the plates the waiter asked if we wanted dessert and Ted looked like his eyes were going to pop out of his head. "You can have dessert if you want," I said. "It is your birthday." The waiter looked at Ted, "It's your birthday? Well then we're buying you some tiramisu my friend." And he quickly returned with a nice slice of tiramisu, creamy, slighly boozy, rich. Ted was so completely catatonic from all the meat and dessert and polenta he said. "I can't drive home . . ." (and he'd only had one glass of wine).

So everything that he was wanting for his meat-centric meal was delivered at Primo al Canto. I'd love to return on a weeknight, just because it might be a little mellower and I know now to stick with the meats . . . but it was delightful. And it was $80 for both of us, that included two glasses of wine and an appetizer.

Thanks again for the suggestions!

bjt

Glad to hear you loved this place and that it is doing well! I have had 3 great meals here and Georges the owner and family are great people!! You just made me decide to get back there in the next couple of weeks.
Danny

Fifille and I had dinner at Al Primo Canto tonight and it was wonderful. Extremely good service and some of the best lamb I've ever had - no hyperbole at all. We are already planning our next visit with her parents for a birthday celebration. The polenta sticks were terrific and the chicken had a good smokiness to it.

I have to reiterate how smooth and professional the servers were. They were attentive without being obtrusive and friendly to boot.




edited to clarify what restaurant we are talking about.