I just did a six-month stint in Boston, which means I barely scratched the surface, but here's my abbreviated intel from the second half of '09, some firsthand, some secondhand:
The three places I consider musts, covering both ends and the center of the spectrum, are Craigie on Main in Cambridge (casual 4-star, if that makes any sense), Kelly's Roast Beef in Revere for a lobster roll (outdoor picnic tables only), and a raw bar somewhere. I'd probably include some kind of North End Italian if I knew what I was talking about, but I never got to find out (we thought we'd be there for 4-5 years, minimum, then ended up making a very sudden and unexpected move).
For a raw bar, Neptune Oyster, as mentioned, is pretty awesome. I've only done raw bar and the hot (Connecticut-style) lobster roll, and that's enough. The place is a total zoo, however, and the most densely packed restaurant I've ever seen. A little easier to approach if you want to do high-end raw bar is B&G Oysters, Barbara Lynch's place. It's kind of the anti-Neptune -- slick, hip, trendy (not ridiculously so, but notably so) -- but it's open late, much easier to get into and while I prefer Neptune on the whole, it's not a bad fallback position if you can deal with the scene. It's also absurdly overpriced. Incidentally, B&G does a really neat slightly but not overly jazzed-up clam chowder. Of course, it's a $14 bowl of clam chowder, but it's really good. In either place, be sure to get some Island Creek oysters. Of course there are other great raw bars, but those two are the two big names and I didn't get a chance to dig before we had to skip town.
As mentioned, O Ya is the big blowout place. And if Bruni's opinion means anything to you, he fell over himself raving about it. It's the one place I regret not getting to while I was there.
Troquet gets a lot of love on CH Boston, particularly for the wine list, and our dinner there was very nice, but I see no reason to steer somebody there over Craigie.
Dinner at Sportello, for us, was REALLY hot and cold. One good, two flops and one
excellent dish. Be aware that it's a really odd space, like a Jetsons diner with a specialty food store crammed into one corner.
One thing that's weak in Chicago but strong in Boston, I'm told, is Cambodian, and the place for that is Floating Rock (NOT Elephant Walk, though EW has the big name). This is purely secondhand info from people I trust. They were closed for a private party the night I tried to get there.
Late-night in Chinatown is all about Peach Farm for straight-up Cantonese seafood. There's nothing mindblowing (unless you've never had really good Cantonese seafood), but they hit all of the marks and they scratch that particular itch in a way that Chicago never quite could for me. Salt & Pepper Shrimp (or whatever the title is on their menu) are especially good. Also, they do a pretty formidable Peking Duck with no advance notice.
Drink, from what I've heard, is quite good, but don't expect The Violet Hour. I had some exceptional classic cocktails at Eastern Standard.
And remember that you're only two hours away from a New Haven pizza pilgrimage.
Just be sure you go to Craigie.
Dominic Armato
Dining Critic
The Arizona Republic and
azcentral.com