For those unfamiliar, Cici’s is a VPN-certified, hyper-authentic Neapolitan pizza retreat that makes or grows all of its own ingredients, offers only a base margherita pie, and bakes all of its pies in wood-burning oven shipped over from Naples and built by Italian masons.
Oh, and during Restaurant Week, they are offering a $3.99 buffet, including salad, pasta, and dessert.
You’ve seen the commercials; you’re morbidly curious, I’m sure; so was I. She’s a clever one, my girlfriend: she called me a food snob, backed me into a corner, left me no recourse. We
had to go.
Surprise: it’s really gross. Like sub-Little Ceasar’s bad: the tomato sauce on the pizza is acrid, Ralph Wiggum approved (e.g., “it tastes like burning”); the toppings actually have the word ‘topping’ in their designation—i.e., “meat topping,” “bacon topping,” etc. Specialty pizzas, and there are plenty, enter into the “uncanny valley” of Food Inc.: they taste nothing like pizza and everything like shelf-stable buffalo or barbecue sauce (to name two pizza types), the proverbial
thing in itself; the buffet supervisor guy is not kidding when he said, “two all beef patties, special sauce...” to introduce the cheeseburger pizza (lettuce included!), because it tasted exactly like a Big Mac. (Three cheers for food science, yeah!) Were I to invite anyone from history to dinner, it would be Kant and Hegel. And we would go here.
I was able to ingest the white pizzas, which were just some bad Provel-like substance and bread and thankfully there were usually at least three variants on the buffet line at any one time; the “flips”—essentially a sad slice of pepperoni folded between two crusts—are sort of a guilty pleasure. The composed salad is sort of a bottom-end version of Olive Garden’s salad, thankfully light on the sugary dressing; you can add vegetable toppings to it, and they were surprisingly fresh. And the cinnamon rolls are not all that bad.
But still. Please, please, please go to Shabu House (same strip mall, even!) or Cho Jung instead.
Cici's Pizza
8225 W Golf
Niles, IL 60714
(847) 965-3911
http://www.cicisofniles.com