Last night at Cafe Marbella, the future bride and I enjoyed what has to be one of the city's best byob bargains. Not everything was perfect, but all was good+. The gracious and enthusiastic service combined with the good and plentiful food to make our $43 tab seem like a real steal.
We shared a couple of hot tapas to start: Gambas Al Ajillo (sauteed shrimp with garlic, cayenne, parsley and white wine) and Espinacas A La Catalana (sautéed baby spinach with onions, apples and raisins). When I tasted the first bite of shrimp, I knew I was going to enjoy this meal. This dish is
very aggressively seasoned: tons of thin slivers of toasty garlic and a whole, dried cayenne pepper infused the still bubbling wine as the dish was served. The gambas were served sizzling in the small crock in which they were cooked. A dramatic and fun presentation. The spinach was simple and tasty, with nicely plumped raisins and sweet, caramelized onion. The sweetness in the dish was actually a little too much for my taste, and next time I'll ask for some lemon to squeeze for some balance.
After finishing the first course, we ordered the second. This is a practice I'd recommend at Marbella, at least until they've smoothed out some potential pacing issues. At least one table near us complained that the pacing was too fast. Progressive ordering seems in keeping with the Spanish way anyhow.
Our second course: Patatas Bravas (deep fried potatoes with spicy tomato sauce) and Zortziko De Mariscos (sauteed seafood combination with garlic, fresh tarragon and shrimp butter sauce). The potatoes were very nicely crisped outside and fluffy inside, and the sauce - much like the shrimp dish - was aggressively picante. My only problem with this dish was that they served the sauce poured directly on the potatoes, sapping most of their crispness after a couple of minutes. Next time I'll have to either eat faster or ask for the sauce on the side. The seafood combo had an incredibly rich, tasty butter sauce that had been flavored with what I imagine was heavily reduced shrimp stock. I loved the sauce, but some of the seafood was a bit on the rubbery side. The mussels, shrimp, and cod were excellent, but the octopus and squid were both a little tough to chew. This dish is great for a group to share, as it's really too rich for one, or even two people to finish. Cardiologists should stay out of the kitchen, I imagine, when the chef throws the butter in the pan to make this sauce.
I don't know what to call the dessert we shared, as it was offered via tableside display rather than a menu. It was a deliciously simple combination of thinly sliced, very ripe papaya atop fresh whipped cream and a very thin layer of cheesecake.
The owner was present and active all night, greeting people, opening their wine bottles, and displaying a genuine interest in hearing feedback from his patrons. He has a more-than-competent staff as well, who kept up nicely as the restaurant grew busier and busier throughout our dinner.
Cafe Marbella has an extensive menu with very reasonable prices, and I look forward to exploring it more fully.