I made my first trip to Nightwood last week and came away extremely impressed. I'd been wanting to try it since it opened but I just kept misfiring in my attempts. Last Friday, on the spur of the moment, we decided to head over there from River North at about 7 pm. A quick, advance phone call could not turn up a reservation for our party of 2 but we were told that while they were booked, there were about 10 seats available for walk-ins. 20 minutes later we arrived to find seats available both on the outdoor patio and at the counter that wraps around the open kitchen. We choose the kitchen view, which was a great vantage point. We started out with a round of cocktails . . .
French Wife (iirc)This was a riff on a pisco sour but my companion ordered it, so I don't know the details. It was tasty, though. For this first round I ordered a High West Rendevous Rye, neat. The cocktail menu at Nightwood is pretty darned nice. Not only are the creations interesting but drinks are well-made and the overall spirits list is well-chosen, too.
Corn BiscuitsWe were started out with these gratis corn biscuits and they were very skillfully executed; tender with that tell-tale, pull-apart texture that indicates the dough had been handled with a light touch.
Copper River Salmon Crudo | spring vegetables, crab sauce
This dish really blew me away. The lightly-cured salmon was just as sensational as you'd expect from Copper River salmon in May and the 'salad' that accompanied it was distinctive and delicious. I loved the tiny carrot sprouts (left side and top of frame), which were no bigger than a matchstick. The entire stem tasted like carrot. I forgot to ask about their provenance but they reminded me of the kind of produce being grown by farmer Lee Jones at Chef's Garden in Ohio. The other components -- asparagus, radishes, light dressing, to name a few -- made this dish entirely compelling.
Pan-seared Connecticut Shad Roe | ramps, bacon
Wow! This shad roe was utterly fantastic. It was really briney, extremely fresh-tasting and super intensely flavored. The simple accompaniments highlighted the roe without obscuring it. This was one of several instances at this meal where quality ingredients, untethered imagination and finely-tuned cooking skills all came together.
Warm Burrata | veal belly raviolo, spinach puree
This burrata was insane -- so rich and creamy with an intoxicating and long-lingering aftertaste. It was great watching the kitchen turn these out, as they actually dropped them in a saute pan briefly before plating them. The spinach puree was magnificent. The raviolo was tasty but honestly, it was practically overkill on this plate.
Wood-grilled Soft Shell Crab | garlic butter, Illinois sweet corn
I loved the execution here and it was clear that the crabs were live in the kitchen but our crab had a bitter iodine taste to it. Not sure what went wrong here but it may have been nothing more than Mother Nature's indifference to the culinary world.
On the lineA cook diligently focuses on working the pasta station.
Chef de Cuisine Jason VincentChef de Cuisine Jason Vincent works the grill and rotisserie station. I was a little surprised that he wasn't expediting but wft do I know?
Colonial Sling | apple brandy, cherry bounce, house-made walnut liqueur, lemon
I got out of my comfort zone with this cocktail but really enjoyed it. The lure of the house-made walnut liqueur was just too much to resist. Its richness paired with the fruit elements in the drink very harmoniously and the lemon mitigated the sweetness.
Strozzapreti | pistachio, ricotta butter
The noodles here could not have been cooked more perfectly. They were toothsome yet tender with an immensely satisfying mouthfeel. I loved the way the tart butter (fresh lemon?) and rich ricotta matched up to create an amazingly balanced and satisfying sauce.
At the passAs many kitchens as I've visited, watching the ballet of Nightwood's kitchen really stood out for me. More on this later.
Sweet Corn Custard | spinach, warm artichokes, parmesan polenta croutons, green garlic vinaigrette
Another very well thought-out and perfectly prepared combination. The flavors and textures here were phenomenal together. I loved the richness of the custard, which was foiled so well by the judiciously applied vinaigrette. The delicious croutons (barely visible in the picture) provided a 'right on time' crunchy element.
Wood-grilled Cheeseburger | fries, pickle, egg
After seeing these going out all night, we had to have one. The burger was exceptionally tasty -- bursting with beefy flavor -- and perfectly cooked to medium rare. The fries were crispy and light with an amazing, pillowy tenderness within. The carefully toasted and condimented bun was so delicious it would have been a joy to eat on its own. Hell, even the pickle was terrific. The one misstep here was our egg. It was cooked a bit over and as the picture somewhat shows, the yolk was not runny at all. By this point in the meal, this little gaffe was almost shocking. It almost made me feel good to see this well-oiled team do something less than perfectly. The overcooked egg didn't detract from the joy the burger delivered other than to make me wonder how even more phenomenal it would have been with yolk running all over it.
PickupsBusy, busy, busy.
Rhubarb Shortcake | poached rhubarb, lemon cream, yellow cake ice cream
I'll admit that I'm not a huge fan of rhubarb but being the seasonally-focused restaurant that Nightwood is, 2 of the desserts on the menu featured it and I decided to go with the flow. I think I could have dealt with the tartness of the rhubarb but the lemon cream was also very tart and the biscuit wasn't sweet at all, so I found this plate a bit out of balance for my palate.
Malted Chocolate Ice Cream | sugar cookie
I absolutely loved this ice cream. The chocolate deftly straddled the line between sweet and bitter. The malted note was so wonderful. It reminded me of a superior quality malted milk ball...and the sugar cookie was crispy, tender and wonderful.
As much as I loved the food at this meal, the kitchen-view vantage point was nearly as enjoyable. In fact, the 2 elements combined for me into one virtually inseparable experience. The professionalism in chef Vincent's kitchen was truly a sight to see. And it seemed clear to me, especially since he wasn't even working the pass on this night, that he leads by example and has earned tremendous respect from the cooks in his kitchen. There was such an efficiency of movement and communication. It was like watching a complex and magnificent machine or some sort of multi-hour dance ritual. There was clear and constant communication yet it was so economical, so quiet, you might miss it if you weren't watching for it. I believe, after seeing how this team worked together, that after putting in their time at Nightwood, these cooks would be ready to cook in any kitchen. I say this because the aesthetic here, while quite distinctive, reminded me in many ways of some of the top kitchens I've visited. And let's face it, how many of us could do our jobs with an audience watching us? I don't think I could last 8 hours with my customers witnessing my typical workplace behavior. I think it says a tremendous amount about the culture at Nightwood, -- the leadership, the training -- the way these cooks comported themselves during the heat of service...and they do it every night, which is astonishing and admirable.
But at the end of the day, restaurants are about serving customers food and beverage. Considering the route Nightwood takes to get there, it's not the least bit surprising to me that their fare is so successful. In many ways, these plates (and glasses) appear so simple but sitting there watching them being prepared, it's clear that their appearance belies the tremendous amount of hard work and soul that goes into them. I can't wait to get back to Nightwood and frankly, I cannot imagine ever sitting anywhere but at the counter. which provides an immensely satisfying synaesthesia.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain