Shrimp and Grits Survey

Shrimp and Grits Survey

Every now and then, I get on a jag with one dish that I just want to try everywhere I find it. This compulsion doesn’t flare up often (last time was on Chowhound when I discovered The Monte Christo Sandwich and ate it everywhere I could) – but when it does, it’s like an uncontrollable urge; I must eat, catalog, document and eat again.

As of the beginning of this year, I don’t think I’d ever had shrimp and grits before; now, I have grown to very much enjoy this dish and understand it to be an infinitely variable down-home food that is open enough in format to be played upon with innumerable seasonings and additions, kind of an edible canvas that can be very simply painted upon or artfully elevated to a thing of sophisticated beauty.

In January, I tried the version of shrimp and grits at Sepia, and if I had thought for one second that this was as good as it got, I’d never try the dish again:



What kind of turned me off about Sepia’s version was that the grits were so watery, which I understand to be one approach to the carbo-component of this dish. Aaron Deal at Custom House Tavern told me that he grew up with a “thin” layer of grits underneath his shrimp, so I’m not saying this approach is inauthentic, but I don’t like it nearly as much as more full-bodied takes on the grit. I guess I also like a little more (butter, cheese, whatever) mixed into the grit for more flavor and weight. The shrimp (which were of sustainable Laughing Bird stock) were inoffensive but not as flavorful as I might have liked. There just was not much going on in this dish, though there was a touch of heat which I did expect and which I was amused to find absent in other renditions.

Kith & Kin’s version of shrimp and grits was so far beyond Sepia’s there was almost no comparison. The grits had more grit, more body and texture, and the shrimp just seemed to be of a higher quality, their flavor punching through. The onion greens and thin collard threads on top were a good touch ( and reminded me of The Wife’s version, with more rustic greens, still my favorite for gustatory/political reasons ), and they provided a textural contrast and slight acidity and bitterness that set off the sweetness of the shrimp, really good. Added bonus: slightly smoky flavor, which was unpredictable and complimentary.



Dinner last Sunday at North Pond revealed what is currently my favorite restaurant version of this dish:



The shrimps, cooked in crustacean butter, were beautifully rich, powerfully balanced by the sweet-sour citrus and crisp sprouts (a weird addition, but it worked). The grain underneath is almost black “forbidden rice grits,” which has kind of a lush, globular mouthfeel. The almonds and glazed celery were fun, adding crunch. Of all the versions of shrimp and grits I’ve had recently (and as I mentioned I’ve only had them recently), this was by far the most beautiful looking rendition, the most adventurous, inventive, complex and delicious, and a perfect embodiment of how a simple, traditional recipe can be enhanced through kitchen art and still retain a clear connection to the simpler versions of the dish that contain little more than the shrimp and the grit.

There are many more version of this dish I now must try.

Sepia, 123 N. Jefferson, 312.441.1920
Kith & Kin, 1118 S. Webster, 773.472.7070
North Pond, 2610 North Cannon Drive, 773.477.5845

I'm of the school of simplicity when it comes to shrimp and grits, Hammond. I never had shrimp and grits in Chicago that I can say I really loved...except in my own kitchen.

My ultimate shrimp and grits combines a creaminess of the underlying grits to the perfectly cooked and somewhat lightly seasoned shrimp on top. In my mind, its a bit like good barbeque, if you have to put too much sauce on it, you probably didn't cook it right to begin with.

Its a simple as cooking your breakfast grits seasoned 2 % milk, maybe stirring in a little Philly Brand cream cheese at the end to add some bland richness if you're having them for dinner. The use of good grits are key. The combination of elements of the cooking liquid are simple: milk, salt, pepper.

The shrimp, though, favor themselves to ultimate simplicity in preparation. First, go for the smaller creek sized shrimp. They have more flavor and are more tender than their behemoth brethren from the deep. By all means, buy good shrimp. Visit your local seafood market that may carry something like Georgia White Shrimp of Gulf Shrimp versus some deep frozen farmed product from Vietnam. Give me a little butter, a touch of minced garlic, some salt, some pepper. Maybe a tiny little dash of cayenne if you're feeling spunky. You should be able to taste the marsh and the ocean element of the shrimp. You don't want any ingredients that cover that natural flavor of the ocean. That's it for me. That's what makes this dish great.

Shrimp and grits are great comfort food.

I'm no expert on this by any means, but...... I think you have to have outstanding shrimp....like non-frozen, wild shrimp from the Atlantic or Gulf. The kind you might buy out of the back of some guy's 1973 Chevy van along the coast. I like thin, but creamy grits. Almost like a thick buttery soup.

Years ago we went on vacation to Disney World and traveled up the coast on the way home. We stayed in Beaufort, SC for a few days and discovered a Gullah restaurant on St. Helena's Island that featured "Swimps and Grits" along with an outstanding oyster omelette, my wife's pick, on the breakfast menu. I still the remember the creamy goodness of the grits and the subtle spices and absolute freshness of the shrimp. I haven't had or even seen the dish since that time, but now will have to check it out. I am not sure if the restaurant is still there, but it is still around on the internet.

Gullah House Restaurant
761 Sea Island Pkwy
St. Helena Island
South Carolina
(843) 838-2402

I'm very excited about this thread and look forward to hearing your reviews from around Chicagoland. I recently had an excellent version (though I'm no expert) at Big Jones in Andersonville. The grits were thick and creamy. The shrimp were plump, fresh and perfectly prepared. They have this "tasso gravy" that they add - it is amazing and totally brings the dish together.

Big Jones
5347 N Clark
Chicago

Cheers,
vickyp

PS: They also make a pretty mean gumbo

cj's eatery has outstanding shrimp and grits. justjoan


cj's eatery
3839 w. grand ave.
773-292-0990

teatpuller wrote:I'm no expert on this by any means, but...... I think you have to have outstanding shrimp....like non-frozen, wild shrimp from the Atlantic or Gulf. The kind you might buy out of the back of some guy's 1973 Chevy van along the coast. I like thin, but creamy grits. Almost like a thick buttery soup.

Because this is a very simple dish, the quality of ingredients is critical, and so (inarguably) better shrimp makes for a better dish (though I'd be surprised if many Chicago sources for SnG use non-frozen shrimp).

About the "thick buttery soup," that sounds pretty good, and I think the challenge with the grits is getting them rich enough and not too watery and yet moist enough to avoid becoming a gooey congealed slag beneath the shrimp.

Spice level in this dish seems to vary a lot; as I have no heritage with this preparation, I tend to like my SnG is little spicier, though I'm guessing there's a lot of variation on that point, and some may have grown up with what might seem relatively bland versions of SnG.

I had a version in Florida, Pensacola I believe,
a while ago in which the grits were quite firm,
resulting in a jambalaya-like quality to the dish.
Very good, just a different approach.

P.S. I just tried to track down info on the dish
and found they actually call them "Naussau grits" -
so, yeah, spicy shrimp and grits.

Coming from the South, I happen to LOVE shrimp and grits, and the restaurant that comes closest to my taste is Wishbone, believe it or not. It's quite good, but a little too much butter.

Here is my recipe, if anyone is interested:

http://allrecipes.com/PersonalRecipe/62 ... etail.aspx

It combines the creaminess of cheese and grits with the acidity of a nice white wine and creamy butter.

I never ever have leftovers of this recipe when I make it. Hope you all like it!

The best shrimp and grits I ever ate was at the Watershed, in Decatur, Ga. By the way, Scott Peacock has just left to pursue other interests.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/water ... cock.shtml

Branch 27 is doing a nice shout-out to S'n'G via some N.O.-BBQ'd style head-on shrimp + white polenta + strips of tasso ham + a pan sauce that adds a nice briny/sweet/spice element. It's more nuanced than most versions I've had of the dish, but that's part of its quiet charm.

We go to Wishbone for breakfast fairly often as it is super kid friendly. I often get their Shrimp and Grits in which bacon and mushrooms are also featured. I can't say if this is a standout version or not, but I love it.

Wishbone
3300 N. Lincoln
773-549-2663

I am a huge fan of Shrimp and Grits and always have been as a child. In Chicago during the fall, I had the Spicy Shrimp and Grits at Hearty (The Hearty boys restaurant) during brunch. The grits were nice and creamy and I believe had a great taste of bacon to them, if not pieces in it and it's all toped with a fried egg. The yolk adds another dimension I have not experienced prior to my visit and it was really good. Not sure if they still have them, might of been a seasonal menu item, I would check if you plan on visiting. But do go, the place is great.

Hearty
3819 N. Broadway
Chicago, IL 60613

Anyone try the Shrimp and Grits at The Southern yet?