I recently had dinner at Elate. Full disclosure: a good friend is affiliated with the ownership of the Hotel Felix, of which the restaurant is a part.
On a chilly fall night, Elate’s space is very inviting. Sure, there are flat screens at the bar and the music is vaguely electronic, but, as bizarre as it sounds, the lighting and furniture actually made me think of a modern study or library. It was warm and cozy, and the volume of the space with probably half the tables occupied was surprisingly subdued. It’s a terrific space for a 1:1 meal, and I don’t say that of many places. I would go back to Elate for the space alone.
We opted to make a meal of small plates mainly because those were the dishes I was most curious about—none of the large plates sounded especially interesting to me—and because my dining companion was a vegetarian, and there were no meatless entrees.
“Ruffles” & Truffles
This was an OK snack. I didn’t mind the cute name (maybe would have if other things on the menu were similarly named), but "'Ruffles' & Truffles" was somewhat misleading. I think of Ruffles as a heartier chip, and these very light waffle chips basically weren’t sturdy enough to pick up even small amounts of the sour cream with truffle oil. Both my friend and I ate the sour cream—the truffle was very subtle—with forks.
Plum & Goat Cheese Tart – herb salad, walnut vinaigrette
I think this dish had a lot of potential, but too-large pieces of almost tasteless plum overwhelmed the plate. With exceptional or mediocre plums, I wish there had been more savory to this dish.
One of the things I was most looking forward to trying at Elate was the charcuterie. Therefore, I was disappointed when I asked the waitress if it was possible for me to get a tasting platter of all of the charcuterie and was told that they didn’t offer such a thing. Even after I settled on the pâté and started eating it, this didn’t make any sense to me.
Country Pâté – foie gras, farm egg
The pâté ended up being quite lovely, especially with the greens on which it was served. My only real criticism was that it was served a touch cold.
My companion and I ended up befriending the man and woman at the table next to ours, who—and this was clearly a
you-know-you’re-an-LTHer moment—ended up not only allowing me to photograph their food but also to eat it.

It was because of our new friends that I was able to try the rest of the charcuterie on offer and finally understood why a tasting platter didn’t make sense in the context of Elate’s menu.
The pâté aside, Elate incorporates their charcuterie into what are essentially larger appetizers—in other words, the charcuterie is made into something else. I wish our waitress would have explained this to me straight away.
Smoked Duck Breast – melon, mascarpone
This dish blew me away—the best single bite (maybe 3 bites) I’ve had recently in all of my eating. All of the components worked together seamlessly, with no one component lost and the duck front and center. This was perfectly seasoned, beautiful and delicious—my favorite dish of the evening.
Jamón Serrano – manchego, haricot verts, boquerones
This dish was also outstanding—kind of a mess to eat and messier to share (perhaps a reason not to eat off strangers’ plates!), seemingly very busy, maybe even chaotic but superb in the combination of flavors and the highlighting of the jamón serrano. Very good boquerones, too.
I am someone who typically likes my charcuterie undressed, but what Elate is doing (why the country pâté seems to be the exception, I don't know) really works.
Octopus Pastrami – rye consommé, mustard greens
The Octopus Pastrami was one of the main reasons I wanted to visit Elate.* My question going into dinner was, “What the hell is octopus pastrami?” Unfortunately, this is still my question, even after eating it. I asked Chef Randal directly about this dish. He kindly explained that one of the things he hopes to do with his cooking is get people to try food that they wouldn’t otherwise by preparing it like (or just naming it after?) something more familiar. I guess the logic was: people know and like pastrami, and therefore it’s a way to get diners to try octopus. I buy into the basic idea, but I still am completely baffled by the pastrami-octopus combination. The dish tasted like simple grilled octopus with almost too much char.
Heirloom Tomatoes – parmesan fondue, grilled baguette
My dining companion ordered this dish, and I forgot to taste it. She said it was very satisfying, but qualified her reaction by saying that it’s pretty difficult to mess up something so simple. I see simple food messed up all of the time, so I would guess that this dish was better than just good.
Pork Belly Pó Belly – lobster, vine ripe tomato, creole aioli
This was awesome. It actually ended up being very much about the big, luscious pieces of lobster and tomato—the pork belly was drowned out by the aioli which had no Creole character that I could discern—but that was perfectly fine with me.
Vegetable Pot Au Feu – white beans, pine nut froth
This was delicious and hearty with a rich, complex broth.
Flourless chocolate cake
Dessert was a major disappointment. So much of the food we had eaten up until this point was elegant and refined. Dessert was crude. Neither my friend nor I remembered banana being in the description the waitress gave us of this dish, but it was cake and banana layered in what seemed like equal parts, which muddled the flavors of both the chocolate (which actually wasn't very chocolatey) and the banana. The overwhelming nut garnish and maraschino cherry didn't help. I actually quite liked the pecan (?) ice cream on its own, but it clashed with the other flavors on the plate.
Overall, our meal at Elate really surprised me. I think I had pretty low expectations for what I thought was going to be just another flashy hotel restaurant in River North, but I’m intrigued by what Chef Randal is doing, and I think more people need to go in and try his food. Most of the meal
really worked. The service could use some work as it was friendly but at times clumsy and uninformed. When we arrived at the restaurant, the place was practically empty, and it seemed to take 4 people to figure out where to seat us. Our waitress was very nice but didn’t know the food or the wine. I will be back though as it seems that it could be hard to go wrong with the current offerings. I will certainly return to try Hibachi chicken wings, about which our new friends at the table next to us raved. I might also try one or more large plates next time, though we were thoroughly satisfied with our meal of small plates. Elate is very worthy of a visit.
*The other lure was another small plate I had seen on the online menu, Ricotta & Raisin Agnolotti with pickled grapes and lamb tongue. Sadly, this dish was no longer available, according to Chef Randal, because no one was ordering it.Elate Restaurant
111 W Huron St
Chicago IL 60654-8706
312-202-9900