Time to bring this up-to-date. After an unexpected dinner here Saturday night, we were puzzled why Salpicon doesn’t get more attention: it deserves it.
Although I have sworn off both
Frontera and
Topolobampo for reasons elaborated in the highlighted threads, we found ourselves at Frontera on Saturday because we were taking the (former) boss and his wife out and the boss loves Frontera. Got there at 5:15; they opened at 5:00. Upon inquiring, we were told we would have a wait of at least 2 to 2½ hours. Hello? Why on earth a place this exceptionally popular can’t take reservations is absolutely beyond me, but they don’t and we were stuck. No one wanted to wait that long at the bar in a place that was already wall-to-wall people with a noise level that matched it. I asked if Topolobampo could accommodate us that early without a reservation. No. So we went to Salpicon.
Wonderful decision. Priscilla Satkoff (the chef/owner) answered the telephone when I called and served as maitre d’ all evening (perhaps the regular called in sick?). We walked in and she immediately greeted us like longtime friends. Although she placed us at the table next to the maitre d’s stand, it worked out just fine. And the noise level there turned out to be lower than in the rest of the place. Besides, as a last-minute walk-in, we were pleased to be there. By 7 pm, the place was filled. And understandably so. We were all pleased by the
range of choices, both regular as well as
specials.
Although I was tempted for a long time by an off-the-menu special on soft shell crabs, I went with a trio of tamalitos: these tiny tamales were filled with (1) queso fresco and serrano chiles topped with a spicy salsa and crema, (2) with black beans,
rajas (roasted chile strips with onions and herbs), and Chihuahua cheese accompanied by a black bean purée, and (3) with zucchini and chipotles. The presentation was beautiful. Indeed, one of the things we noticed was that everything brought to the table was unusually well-presented. It’s certainly common to see nice platings at nice restaurants, but these were so uniformly of high quality, attention to detail, and thoughtfulness, that it bears special notice. Had I a complaint, and it would follow through to the entrees, the dish was slightly on the small side. Although my entrée was well-portioned, I was surprised to see the size of my three companions’ plates. When the portion is the right size for the Lovely Dining Companion, you know that it's wrong for everyone else.
Two of us ordered from the regular menu and two chose from the weekly specials. I had (from the regular menu) a
tinga poblano, a grilled pork tenderloin over a roasted tomato-chipotle sauce. The sauce included a bit of chorizo and some diced potatoes. All this sat in a small pool of an avocado-tomatillo sauce that was truly a perfect complement to the meat. The meat was sliced and cooked absolutely perfectly; the flavor of the grill was matched nicely by the smokiness of the chipotles and echoed by the chorizo. A well thought out dish that left me hungry for more. The other regular menu item was pescado al carbon, roast fish of the day which was halibut. I was taken aback by the size of the two small fillets but our friend loved it. She pronounced the grilled fish and its salsa fresca delicious. The simple dish was accompanied by white rice.
Two of us chose specials. The Lovely Dining Companion went for the
salmón al hinojo, a grilled fillet of Copper River sockeye salmon glazed with ancho chile and placed atop a bed of sauteed fennel and spinach. Accompanying it was a tomatillo-serrano sauce which LDC tasted (she has no tolerance for spicy heat) and I forgot to taste. To my surprise, she enjoyed the little bit she tasted. Again, the fish came in two very small fillets but LDC commented several times after we left the restaurant on how much she enjoyed her dish. She did miss a little starch—say, rice or even potatoes—and thought it would have added both to the portion size and the rounding out of the plate, particularly in light of the fact that they serve rice with the fish of the day. She doesn’t do clean her plate very often and I take it as a great sign. She was also the one who pointed out that if the serving size was right for her, it had to be small for most people.
Finally, a
callos tropicales, grilled jumbo sea scallops grilled and served on a bed of corn, ruby grapefruit, cilantro, avocado, scallions and tear-drop tomatoes. Two sauces here: red papaya-tequila and a spicy four chile sauce. I can’t offer much by way of comment except to say that the plate was mopped clean. And I mean clean.
Two shared desserts:
pastel tres leches which I must confess I found disappointing. According to the menu, it’s “a light orange-flavored cake soaked in three milks, frosted with freshly whipped cream and served with raspberry sauce.” So light was the orange flavoring that I barely noticed it. The cake, too, was exceptionally light and, again, on the small side. The
pastel de chocolate y espresso hit the spot (or so I’m told): a warm soft center chocolate-espresso cake with vanilla bean ice cream.
Service was good, though no better than that. We were surprised that, had we not ordered a guacamole (excellent) for the table (it came with very fresh chips and a roasted tomato salsa), it appeared as if nothing would have been brought. The lag between my app and the entrees was long enough to be noticeable but not so long that it was a problem. Still, I’d be interested to see if this happens again or was a one-off event.
P.S. On a semi-related manner, for the first time last night I noticed that the tax on my bill came to 11.5%. I was puzzled by that rate and looked it up. According to the Illinois Restaurant Association
website, the breakdown includes:
State Sales Tax 6.25%
Chicago Sales Tax 1.25%
Cook County Sales Tax 1.75%
RTA Tax 1.00%
MPEA Pier Tax 1.00%
TOTAL SALES TAX 11.25%
Plus
Restaurant Tax 0.25%
TOTAL TAX 11.50%
According to the website, “The MPEA Pier Tax (1%) only applies to downtown Chicago restaurants” and “the Restaurant Tax (.25%) only applies to Chicago restaurants.” Welcome to Chicago; hope you enjoy paying through the nose! (BTW, the website also estimates restaurant sales in Illinois in 2009 at $18.8 billion. Wow.)
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)