I'd mentioned a few egg-related dishes in my post about
Easter dinner. After a lovely lunch at Spoon Thai last Friday, I'd headed over to Argyle and picked up a couple packages of quail eggs for Easter uses. First, I copied an idea from
Epicurious, but had previously decided that a chocolate chicken egg was just too much chocolate to eat at one sitting, so I resolved to use quail eggs. I started this project thinking that quail eggs are basically just small chicken eggs, realizing along the way that this was true in every way except the shell. Mother quails have decided to protect their babies by encasing them in a paper-thin shell that surrounds a membrane with the resilience of a condom.
I found that it was possible to blow the contents out of a quail egg in the same way one does with a chicken egg - but you have to make bigger holes and blow very gently or the shell will collapse. I carefully poked holes in the two points of the egg with a needle, making a circular series of perforations to remove a round section. I then perforated the yolk with the needle before very gently blowing out the contents (for reference, it's about 5 quail eggs to 1 chicken egg; I added the 10 in this project to the batter of a raspberry clafoutis I made for breakfast) I then boiled the empty eggshells to sterilize them, overturning a small saucer over the eggs to make sure they were fully submerged. They then were put back in the egg carton lined with a paper towel to drain. Because of the membrane, even shells that were crushed slightly bounced back into shape.

I melted together a 60% Cocoa Lindt bar and a 60% Perugina bar in the microwave and was rewarded with a rich, dark, runny chocolate that had the best qualities of both: the bitterness and silky texture of the Lindt, and the nuance of the Perugina (I think I tasted some cinnamon?) I poured them into a ziploc freezer bag and cut the tiniest bit off the corner. I taped over the top holes of the quail eggs (the pointy ones) and slightly enlarged the bottom hole - here's where the mottled color helps you, who knows if it's chocolate or just another blotch.

I chilled them in the refrigerator overnight, then arranged them on a bed of chocolate shavings and shapes I'd made with the leftover chocolate (I'd guess I used about half in the 10 eggs, but it was a lot easier to have extra in the bag) and told the kids it was an Easter Bunny nest.

Unfortunately, due to Mother Quail's protective membrane, getting the chocolate
out of the egg was another matter entirely. It was made a bit easier by putting the eggs in the freezer - room-temperature chocolate melted during the peeling process, making it very messy and slippery.


For Easter itself, I made a simple version of a Frisee and lardons salad, subbing poached quail eggs for the traditional chicken egg. Again, the membrane made poaching the eggs a real chore, but I developed this system: set Chinese soup spoon on the counter. Crack the eggshell against a relatively sharp edge, like a glass or my frying pan. Snip the membrane under your crack shallowly with kitchen shears, being careful to avoid piercing the yolk. Drop egg into spoon, lower spoon into simmering vinagered and salted water and gently slip egg out (I used a small, non-stick frying pan) Flip the egg over after the bottom cooks and remove with a fork or slotted spoon to icewater, or serve immediately. Refrigerate in an ice bath, rewarm in simmering water. I really enjoyed this salad, which became more about the greens due to the small size of the eggs.