Fifteen Blocks of Sandwiches - Union Square, New York

For six weeks I will be living in a studio apartment off Union Square (Second Avenue between 13th and 14th Street) without the benefit of much collegial culinary advice, and will be spending most of my days writing. And so my thoughts often drift to lunch - and what an array of possibilities there are surrounding me. If some places are food deserts, others might be called food des(s)erts. [I thought of food jungles, food jumbles, food Edens, food paradisos, food cornucopias - but none seemed quite apposite as the opposite of food deserts].

And so as I eat sandwiches, I will post their portraits. But several problems arise. What should my boundaries be. I decided on fifteen blocks in that walking fifteen minutes for lunch seemed adequate exercise, and that would take me to Houston Street (Katz's), Madison Square Park (Shake Shack), the East Village, NYU, the Meatpacking District, Flatiron, NoHo, Gramercy, and bits of SoHo and the Lower East Side. (Not to Chinatown or TriBeCa or Midtown).

The next question is what is a sandwich. I started by thinking of meat, vegetable, butter, or jam surrounded by bread or other starch (plantains, corn tacos, tortillas). But then I realized that it needed to be something that should be eaten by hand (dumplings shouldn't count) which would include calzones, burritos, and tacos. But should open-faced sandwiches count. It seems appropriate to include smorgasbord sandwiches. But if so, would pizza count as a sandwich? What about sushi?? The issues were becoming increasing theological. Perhaps I need to map the boundaries of sandwiches, just as I need to map the boundaries of fifteen blocks (do long blocks count the same as short ones? does only the route with the least number of blocks count?). Problems, problems. Promises, promises.

But for now the first installment:

1) Classic Bahn Mi from Baoguette (61 Lexington Avenue, between 25th and 26th Street). This sandwich was recommended by Sam Sifton, the New York Times restaurant critic as one of the 11 best dishes he ate in 2009. It is a Banh Mi on steroids. Perhaps not what one would find in small Vietnamese stands in Sunset Park in Brooklyn, it was richly delicious and quite a bit spicier than other Banh Mi's. Beautiful.



2) A "Philly Cheesesteak" (called a "This Way," served on a round roll) with Cheese Whiz from a tiny sandwich shop (which also serves a pastrami sandwich and a roast beef with gravy and fresh mozzarella) preciously named This Little Piggy Had Roast Beef (149 First Avenue between 9th and 10th Street). I liked that fact that it was doused with au jus and that it was chopped - not sliced roast beef - although I have long preferred Provolone to Whiz (I can't recall having a Cheesesteak with Whiz while I was in college, but perhaps Riddlemay may correct me). The roll didn't do a lot for the sandwich.



3) Cuban Christo - a version of a media noche (an example of Cuban drinking food), a Cubano dipped in sweet egg and fried from a sparkling, bright Cuban sandwich shop (and coffee bar) named Carteles (443 East 6th Street, between First Avenue and Avenue A) whose lively colors and cheery waitress might not help those with a hangover, although the strong, thick coffee surely would. The sandwich was well fried as were the plantain chips. The hot sauce was flavorful, but not fiery hot. I prayed for more pickles and ham; the sandwich was fully beefy, but tasty still.



4) Rose Macaron - a macaron with rose jam - from ChikaLicious (204 East 10th Street, between First and Second Avenue). Is a macaron a sandwich - a tiny one, an elegant jewel of a sandwich. If PBJ counts, why doesn't J? Granted the almond cake is not bread, but where to draw the line. With a macaron this good, I don't care.

I'm not much fore vegetarian anything, but, even nine years after leaving New York, the very mention of sandwiches in that town brings back the memory of the vegetarian sandwich at Columbine Sandwich Shop on West Broadway at the northern most tip of Tribeca.

White Bean Puree with Garlic and Cracked Black Pepper, deliciously sweet oven dried tomatoes, red onion, arugula, and shaved fine parmigiano cheese on a Pizza Bianca. Its a very good value and a very filling lunch on the run in that part of town.

Columbine
229 West Broadway
New York, NY 10013-2909
(212) 965-0909
http://www.columbine229.com

Although outside of my domain, I will keep Columbine on my radar for trips abroad.

I'd suggest a trip to Kaluystan's Deli on lex between 28th and 29th. They have wonderful overstuffed basturma, falafel and mujadara sandwiches in fresh pita. The mujadara is my favorite - nicely spiced lentils, rice and caramelized onions, lettuce, tomato and homemade hot sauce for $5.00 or so. Also great soups and pickled vegetables. There aren't too many tables, so it's best to go a little early or late or prepare to take it back home...

An added benefit is Kaluystan's downstairs - the best place to buy rice, spices or pulses in the city.

I have already been to Kalustyan's on this trip to purchase supplies. However, it stands just outside of my fifteen block radius - and if I can't trust myself to be honest who can I trust. Kalustyan's is a much a New York landmark as is the Statue of Liberty and for much the same reason.

Oh, but if you haven't been to the deli upstairs, do pop in on a weekend. You'll be tempted to pick up your pace on a weekday, giving you a touch more cardiovascular exercise along with the sandwich...

Closer to [your temporary home] there's always Rainbow Falafel on 17th between 5th and Broadway and 'wichcraft at 20th and Broadway...

Though I believe it's quite Brooklyn-focused, Scanwiches could be a good source of ideas (and sandwich OCD inspiration).

-Dan

Childhood Redux

5) Hot Dog and Pina Colada. After a twenty-five course tasting menu lunch at Momofuku Ko, served sans sandwich (to be described later), I was in no condition for a sandwich until nearly midnight. I returned to one of my favorite haunts of my youth, Gray's Papaya (402 Sixth Avenue at 8th Street) (although if truth be told I would more often frequent Papaya King - a world of culinary difference) for a single and cheap New York hot dog. No electric green relish - no hot dog in a garden this - not even mustard - just sauerkraut and a picante sauce. It was very nostalgic, although it would hardly win high honors from those who had not grown up with thin, paprika franks. This encased meat did have a nice snap, even if the bun was merely serviceable. While papaya juice would have been more photogenic, my standard order was hot dog and pina colada, and so it is.

I would put Porchetta (east 7th Street) on your list. Ask for a sandwich with extra cracklings. A good sandwich, but I think they season the pork with too much rosemary.

Also, around the corner (First Ave and 7th St), check out the currywurst and great belgian beer.

There's a little Polish grocery store on the west side of 2nd Ave, near the butchers that has daily lunch specials, including an amazing schnitzel sammie. I have no idea of the name, but could probably find it with some effort.

Can't forget the pork buns at Momofuku....

Perhaps a crawl is in order?

GAF wrote:

I'm sorry but a Gray's Papaya hot dog on a real plate just seems wrong. Here's one in its native habitat, eaten standing at the counter, near midnight after drinking beer for a couple hours.

On this rainy Monday evening in Manhattan, we arranged an LTH-New York event with MHays, Jason, Sparky (visiting New York for spring break), Michelle's brother Paul, Hammer, and me. In the guise of selecting fried chicken, we selected The Redhead (349 East 13th Street, between First and Second Avenues), an intimate and tasty restaurant a block from my apartment. Although my photo is our Sparky's hamburger - an admirable beef puck, which he permitted me to sample for my research, the star dish was an amazingly creamy bowl of grits, tasting unlike any similar bowl. How many calories might be in that bowl of grits. The chicken was impressive as were the green bans with garlic and crispy leeks, as well some finely crafted cocktails (The Revival, in the martini family with Beefeater Gin, White Lillet, Triple Sec, and Fresh Lemon Juice). Despite its modest size, The Redhead packs a punch. The hamburger, though good, was among the least of its attractions, but it was the sandwich of the night. LTH again stakes its claim in Manhattan.

After a week noted for a stomach flu (no more about that) and some travel, I am back on the sandwich trail. I was intrigued by a Thai Baguette (chicken, coconut, ginger, herbs, lettuce, tomato and chili mayo), named "White Ginger" in what was a toasted hero roll. Tasty, if somewhat bland by Thai standards, provided by the memorably named Thai Me Up (238 East 14th Street and Second Avenue). Will there soon be a Thai Me Down?

About a year ago, the legendary Defonte's opened a second location in Gramercy. The sandwiches are a bit smaller than in Red Hook, which means each one only feeds two people. Quality appears to be the same. (Why can't we have bread like this??? )

261 Third Avenue
New York, NY 10010
212.614.1500

Defonte was one of the high points of my visit to Red Hook (along with the Soccer Fields and their wonderful food carts). Thanks for letting me know.

This should be right about 15 blocks from you:

http://newyork.seriouseats.com/2010/04/ ... attan.html

On the march to luncheon passion, two examples of sandwich love: one Lebanese and the other Italian.

The first is a falafel and hummus sandwich in pita bread from Chickpea (210 East 14th Street, between 2nd and 3rd Avenues), a small New York chain. If the falafel was not as crisp or flavorful as I have ever eaten, as fast food it more than passed the bar, especially with cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, couscous, and the rest. It was charming it is combination of flavors.



The second - the Italian Stallion (Prosciutto, Fried Eggplant, Roasted Peppers in an Italian hoagie roll) was the kind of "subway" sandwich that is not found in Chicago, but has been a staple of New York fast dining. This came from the Manhattan outpost of the great Red Hook sandwich shop Defonte's (261 Third Avenue at 21st Street). It was glorious in its rich porkiness. Everything was just so. While Defonte's in Gramercy lacks the charm of the Red Hook original, the sandwiches are a fair match.

GAF wrote:The second - the Italian Stallion (Prosciutto, Fried Eggplant, Roasted Peppers in an Italian hoagie roll) was the kind of "subway" sandwich that is not found in Chicago

Thanks for the great roundup. NB, they do have this sub at Piccolo Mondo in Hyde Park. It used to be on the menu as a discrete item, now you have to ask for an Eggplant Sub plus prosciutto. They also make a chicken hoagie and a solid panino imbottito, though I don't think their bread service is what it used to be.

http://www.piccolomondo.us/
Piccolo Mondo Restaurant - 1642 E.56th Street.

GAF wrote:On the march to luncheon passion, two examples of sandwich love: one Lebanese and the other Italian.

The first is a falafel and hummus sandwich in pita bread from Chickpea (210 East 14th Street, between 2nd and 3rd Avenues), a small New York chain. If the falafel was not as crisp or flavorful as I have ever eaten, as fast food it more than passed the bar, especially with cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, couscous, and the rest. It was charming it is combination of flavors

Falafel sandwich with couscous!!?? You must be in New York.

Santander wrote:

GAF wrote:The second - the Italian Stallion (Prosciutto, Fried Eggplant, Roasted Peppers in an Italian hoagie roll) was the kind of "subway" sandwich that is not found in Chicago

Thanks for the great roundup. NB, they do have this sub at Piccolo Mondo in Hyde Park. It used to be on the menu as a discrete item, now you have to ask for an Eggplant Sub plus prosciutto. They also make a chicken hoagie and a solid panino imbottito, though I don't think their bread service is what it used to be.

http://www.piccolomondo.us/
Piccolo Mondo Restaurant - 1642 E.56th Street.

I heart NY as much as anyone, but you could also get that sandwich at the several Caffe Baci outlets in the Loop, which by the way remind me quite a lot of the ubiquitous Midtown sandwicheria. They don't offer that precise combo, but they would add eggplant to another one. Conte di Savoia, Bari and Grazianos will also get you close, though I think you'd have to "settle" for grilled or marinated melanzane, as opposed to breaded and deep fried.

I have learned my lesson the hard way. Never claim that some sandwich or other is not to be found in Chicago. If it is not to be found, someone will make one.

Although I am tempted to say only in New York for this next sandwich, I will bit my tongue (which reminds me, I need to get to Katz's). But today I went to the Northern Spy Food Co. (511 East 12th St., between Avenue A and B), a casual dining storefront (TONY awarded it "Best New Neighborhood Joint: Manhattan), a few blocks away - squid, collard greens, quinoa, country ham, feta, kabocha squash, dulce de leche, and kale. The usual. I ordered their recognized Chicken and Egg Sandwich, a pan-fried chicken thigh with semi-soft boiled egg with greens and chimichurri for punch, served on a panino roll. Very luscious for a sandwich, three napkin worthy, and fully evocative. Chicago, take note. The drink is home-made lemon-lime seltzer.

Now that's a NYC original!

GAF wrote:...the memorably named Thai Me Up (238 East 14th Street and Second Avenue). Will there soon be a Thai Me Down?

We've got a "Thai One On" in Indy.

GAF wrote:squid, collard greens, quinoa, country ham, feta, kabocha squash, dulce de leche, and kale. The usual.

Perhaps I haven't had enough coffee today - I read that and thought it was the sandwich description.

-Dan

Today's sandwich is a burrito - a fully stuffed (over-stuffed) San Francisco-style burrito with pico de gallo. Dos Toros Taqueria (137 Fourth Avenue between 13th and 14th Streets) makes chicken, carne asada, and my choice of carnitas. The black beans, rice, avocado, and cheese, made for a mushy if tasty sandwich. I don't know a lot about Cal-Mex cuisine, but it seemed to be a burrito gone wild.

A philosophical question: is a knish a sandwich. It has something of a burrito aspect although the covering is an integral part of the product. Could there be an open faced knish - or an open faced burrito? But perhaps since the knish is the work of Yonah Schimmel's Knish Bakery (137 E. Houston, between First and Second) all such debate is, uhh, academic. It is the Cadillac of the knish world. An overstuffed gem.



Then there is David Chang's pork buns - and if pork buns can ever be said to be erotic - and why not? - Chang's Buns are "it." Fatty wedges of pork with a tangy Hoisin Sauce, and cucumbers, on an ethereal bun. Wow! Such buns as Momofuku Noodle Bar (171 First Avenue, between 10th and 11th Street) are worth dying for. They are suitable candidates for a last meal, and if you eat enough of these lush darlings, they just might be. The lychee slurpee is pretty great too.



Patsy's Pizzeria (67 University Place, between 10th and 11th Street) is one of the grand old names of classic New York pizza. Since I had been to DiFara, the mother church, I opted for a pepperoni calzone, which in Patsy's rendition is a ricotta gut bomb. Too much, too much. The crust is perfect, the tomato sauce perfumed with sage and oregano, but oh that cheese. Half as much would be too much. The pepperoni lacked an artisanal touch. One could live off this calzone for a week of sandwiches.

A few more days worth of Sandwiches.

First, on a beautiful afternoon I walked by the Australian mini-chain Tuck Shop (115 St. Marks Place between 1st Avenue and Avenue A) for a very crisp pork and sage roll (they also serve Australian meat and chook (chicken) pies). While it was a simple construction, I did enjoy the generous amount of sage that transformed it from something one might find at a truck stop grocery.



Next my wife and I went to the Chelsea Market and specifically to The Lobster Place (75 Ninth Avenue, between 15th and 16th Street) for a very sweet lobster rolls. The great lobster rolls are perhaps more packed with lobster meat and, of course, have the odor of sea spray, but this was good enough for Chelsea.



Finally after several recommendations I visited Porchetta (110 East Seventh Street, between 1st Avenue and Avenue A), a tiny East Village food shop that specializes in, what else, Porchetta Sandwiches (a Time Out New York award winner). The sandwich was simple, but wonderful - filled with moist pork and cracklings on a delicious Italian roll. This was a beautiful construction - perfection in all respects.

My New York stay is nearing its conclusion, so I am working on my bucket list, as it were.

Lunch today was Shake Shack in Madison Park (23rd and Madison), where I was dismayed that when I asked for a Caramel Shake, I received a Coffee Shake (not good for someone avoiding caffeine), but they did exchange it readily. The best thing about SS is the setting, especially on a beautiful, sunny, 70 degree day. The hamburger was pleasant enough, but by itself nothing that might enter the hamburger hall of fame. Well-made, but thin. Middle of the road for sure. But the setting was Manhattan Heaven.





Dinner was from my local neighborhood Halal truck (14th Street, between 3rd and 2nd Avenues). Chicago, let us get on board the food truck movement. I ordered a lamb gyros, which was nicely spicy on a think pita. It was a reminder that Chicago still has things to learn from New York. While I can't compare it to a sit-down Middle Eastern restaurant, it was comforting that these trucks bring so much Afghan peace and love.

My last sandwich post of this trip. And there are still sandwiches left to try: thousands of them. rved
Many people suggest that the best hot dogs in New York are served at Crif Dogs (113 St. Marks Place [8th Street], between First Avenue and Avenue A), an edgy, hip doggery (any establishment with a busty, bikini-clad girl riding a hot dog must encourage eating doggie-style). It is also the home of the uber-edgy speakeasy PDT (Please Don't Tell), which one enters through a phone booth in the store. And it serves terrific franks (deep fried in vats of oil, providing a crunchiness that is a treasure) - composed of naturally smoked beef and pork, served 16 ways. I ordered the Chihuahua, a bacon wrapped dog covered with avocados and sour cream. All was impressive, except a somewhat wan bun. But eating at Crif Dog, Dorothy, you're not in Chicago any more.





And then finally a pastrami sandwich from Katz's. No more need to be said.



And so on to Johnnie's Italian Beef.