I was listening to
The Splendid Table yesterday (one of the best episodes I've heard in awhile) and one of the contributors to the episode was Daniel Delaney (of vendr.tv), who was discussing food trucks. One of the points he made was that traditionally, food trucks were ethnically driven and allowed new immigrants to produce and sell food and earn income without the overhead of a restaurant. (Undoubtedly, the relative simplicity of operating a food truck, as opposed to a fixed restaurant, is a boon to those who are new to this country and who, among other things, have a limited grasp of English, our laws, regulations, procedures, and tax system.) Hence, traditional street food. Then in come the newfangled chef-driven food trucks, such as those in Austin, that are now what people typically associate with food trucks, but are actually not the norm. As Delaney pointed out, there's tension between the old and new school vendors -- especially in New York -- because, for the old school vendors, it's a way of life, and for the new school vendors, it's
fun. That's it -- fun. It seems like most people jumping on the food trucks bandwagon (no pun intended) are assuming that food trucks in Chicago can only be a good thing, they have visions of these hipster-mobiles that are, I'll be so brave to say -- potentially rebellious and anti-establishment -- and that will harken a new way of eating in Chicago that reflects their lifestyle and values. No more stuffy sit down restaurants with table service! Many proponents of food trucks dream of gold-paved streets lined with the donut truck, the waffle truck, the cupcake truck, etc., like an adult carnival with really good food prepared by three-star chefs. However, Delaney acknowledged that this is largely not the case with food trucks -- based on the number of registered food trucks/carts in NYC (there are ~3100), less than 1/2 of 1 percent provide high-quality, artisinal food that most people associate with food trucks. (Obviously, the statistic of artisinal food trucks in Portland and Austin is much higher.) In other words, your average hot dog cart with half-warmed hot dogs and stale buns is more the norm than the awesome donut truck.
This thread (and these issues) came to mind when, this weekend, I attended a large, well-organized street fair and noticed all the street trucks. At this particular street festival, there
was an attempt to have a wide variety of non-junk food, and there was some effort to attract better quality options, but still, most, if not all of the vendors, were selling crappy food. I was later talking to a friend who said that the one food truck that is good at this festival year after year is the prototypical ethnic food truck -- the Thai food truck, which is helmed by a native Thai woman. However, in order to find her, you have to travel away from the festival because the City was charging food trucks different fees based upon their proximity to the festival (in other words, her "overhead" would be higher). So the ethnic food trucks operating on a shoestring were shut out of the game. That's not to say there aren't quality trucks out there, but just because Chicago allows food trucks doesn't mean they'll be worth anything. I can't help but think that for all this bandwagoning about food trucks, people will be surprised that what they end up getting are numerous touristy food trucks littering Millennium and Grant Parks, selling cotton candy and funnel cakes to tourists, that are more of an eyesore than an improvement to our food scene. More hacks than Achatz.
I often hear the argument that food trucks are a way to allow people to operate a restaurant who can't afford the overhead (which, given the number of food establishments in Chicago, is a problem that I'm not sure actually exists or at least is widespread). Sure, with any business it's tough to raise start-up costs, deal with potential investors, etc., but in making this argument, I assume what they mean is that it opens the doors to the ethnic food vendors. Still, I'm not sure food trucks are not necessarily the answer for them either. As Delaney alluded, how do they coexist with chef-driven, artisinal food trucks? I can't help but think that the same essential business issues inherent in operating fixed restaurants will apply to food trucks, too; there will be a hierarchy -- which does not necessarily mean that the ethnic food trucks will win out in this hierarchy. Chef-driven food trucks presumptively will be more profitable and over time, drive the market and consequently, drive up the City's fees and taxes of the trucks. At the end of the day, the name of the game is money; and it might be fun for, say, Graham Eliot Bowles to operate a foie gras/pop rocks food truck outside a bar in River North once in a while, but if it's not profitable at GEB's expected level of profitability, he's not likely to continue doing it. At the same time, ethnic vendors like the Tamale Guy will continue to operate underground if the fees and taxes inherent in operating a legitimate truck or cart are too prohibitive to him. What is left will bear little resemblance to the romantic notions of ethnic
or hipster street food -- just carnival vendors selling junk.
Like POTUS says,
"Look:" I've got nothing against good food trucks. I've always enjoyed the ethnic street food at flea markets in London, and I have had great chestnuts and hot dogs from food carts in New York. I'd love a sausage and pepper sandwich from the carts on Yawkey Way in Boston. But those carts and trucks that are most dear to me have been integral to those cities' culture for years; they're not integral to Chicago's. I don't think we can artificially resurrect a quality food truck culture in Chicago. Some may call me a curmudgeon, but I'm taking a reserved stance on food trucks. But then again, there are very few "causes" I'll bandwagon for, so maybe that's just me.