Xochimilco market, Mexico City

Xochimilco is one of the 16 delegaciones that make up Distrito Federal (Mexico City). But it's a ways from the center of the city and Imore like a small town. So, I thought I'd start a post for Xochimilco separate from my posts on (one of) the main Mexico City thread(s).

Through the little guestbook at our hotel, we found a woman who does food tours and arranged a trip to Xochimilco (a delegacion/town/part of DF). Xochimilco is famous for it's canals with boats for rent. You can rent a boat for a little party and buy food or listen to mariachi bands on other boats floating by, but we went to on a tour of their market for the food.
Apparently, there are vendors at the market who sell indigenous foods hard to find elsewhere. We had a blast snacking at the market stalls. Here’s most of what we tried:

Oaxacan tamales rojos with pork (the silky, soft texture of the masa made this the best I’ve ever had—and I’m generally not a big tamale person).





Frijol tamales, quelite tamales—I thought these were above average (the quelite was best) but again, I’m not a big tamale fan.






Blue corn tlacoyas with nopales, queso freso—delicious





Bread made with nata (clotted cream), nuts and raisins—solid



Chileatole—just awesome. I didn’t really like atole the last time I tried it but this was a different story. As mentioned by Jefe, this is more like a really great chile corn soup than a drink.



Corn cakes from the same vendor



Sopes with mole, frijoles, queso fresco (the one on the right is mine). My favorite of what I tried. Plus, there was a mariachi band providing live entertainment.






Aguas frescas—We tried a lime with chia (as in chia pet) seeds. Who knew, all those seeds wasted on growing ‘hair’.





Fruits made out of “sweet milk” (tasty but mostly just adorable)



Candied fruits (I like the lime stuffed with coconut and tried the fig and the sour tuna fruit but overall these were a bit too sweet for me)




Other market shots:

Mole/chile vendor


Purple epazote


Huitlachoche for sale (on and off the corn cob)





Carnitas (goat and pork)





Fresh tortillas


Chickens, ducks and peacocks for sale


Housewares (cazuelas and molcajetes)





Ice Cream


Dyed dried flowers


Obligatory shot of the boats:

Great pics, thaiobsessed. I can't believe that in all my travels I still haven't been to Mexico. This certainly gives it a nudge. Also, why does it seem like everywhere except the U.S. has a vibrant, market/street-based food culture?

How was the goat carnitas and does anyone know where I can get it in Chicago?

The best tamales I ever had were in the market at Xochimilco. But keep your hand on your wallet!

Habibi wrote:Also, why does it seem like everywhere except the U.S. has a vibrant, market/street-based food culture?

If Mexico had our health code regulations, 100% of their street vendors and small stands would be shut down. It takes an investment on the order of a taco truck with refrigeration, running hot water, etc. to pass inspection here. In most cases, even the little kids selling lemonade by the side of the road or the cakes baked in home kitchens for fund-raising are not in compliance. Sad to say the "street-based" food in this economy is dominated by large corporate/franchise fast food. See what happens if you try to set up a wood-fired comal on a sidewalk on Main Street.

Thaiobsessed, what a beautiful post. I loved every word and photo.

trpt2345 wrote:The best tamales I ever had were in the market at Xochimilco. But keep your hand on your wallet!

Probably good advice for any obvious tourist in a crowded urban area. Did you have a bad experience? We were told by several D.F. natives that the market at Xochimilco was very safe, no stories about crime, etc.

Habibi wrote:How was the goat carnitas and does anyone know where I can get it in Chicago?

Regretfully, I didn't have room for the goat carnitas. They sure were beautiful though. Next trip...

Bill/SFNM wrote:Thaiobsessed, what a beautiful post. I loved every word and photo.

Thanks Bill, I love going to markets around the world. We particularly enjoyed this one (and it was one of the friendlier markets I've been to. Lots of folks offered free tastes and the guys at the tortilla factory let me come in and take pictures from every angle (I didn't really want pictures from every angle but I appreciated their hospitality and took them anyway).

thaiobsessed wrote:

trpt2345 wrote:The best tamales I ever had were in the market at Xochimilco. But keep your hand on your wallet!

Probably good advice for any obvious tourist in a crowded urban area. Did you have a bad experience? We were told by several D.F. natives that the market at Xochimilco was very safe, no stories about crime, etc.

When we were there it was extraordinarily crowded, I mean shoulder to shoulder and you moved when the crowd moved. My brother in law said, watch your wallet, I said I'm way ahead of you. (He also said, you could get pregnant in a crowd like this). No bad experience, but you have to stay on your toes as in any crowded urban area. Pickpockets are an international phenomenon.

Oh man, this takes me back. Especially eye popping are the pics of fresh huitlacoche and the snoot, tripes, etc. One of my favorite places to eat, thanks for taking me back thaiobsessed. Its posts like these that make me love LTH!

Jefe wrote:thanks for taking me back thaiobsessed

thank YOU for the recommendation of Tacos Hola (and inspiring the taco crawl)

Thaiobsessed, fascinating pix. Haven't been to D.F. in over 20 years and have never been to Xocimilco -- pix in the guidebooks used to always make it look like a touristy trip along the canals in pretty boats, which I guess it can be if that's what you want, but the views of the market make it clear this is a worthy destination. Next time...

David Hammond wrote: Haven't been to D.F. in over 20 years and have never been to Xocimilco.

20 years ago you would not have wanted to visit there. It was not called the "floating gardens" for the flowers in the water.

Habibi wrote:Also, why does it seem like everywhere except the U.S. has a vibrant, market/street-based food culture?

I never thought I was an optimist. But when I saw these pics I was reminded a little of Maxwell St. Eating Oaxacan tamales under a tarp in the street is somehow permitted by the City (because it is controlled and limited to a small area for a short period), but taco trucks are illegal. Who knows.

JeffB wrote:

Habibi wrote:Also, why does it seem like everywhere except the U.S. has a vibrant, market/street-based food culture?

I never thought I was an optimist. But when I saw these pics I was reminded a little of Maxwell St. Eating Oaxacan tamales under a tarp in street is somehow permitted by the City (because it is controlled and limited to a small area for a short period), but taco trucks are illegal. Who knows.

I think control is a big part of it. At MSM, health inspectors are constantly stopping by vendors' stalls to have a look-see...still, no hot-and-cold running water, wash basins, etc. The city and its regs seem, to say the least, kind of confused.