Chilpancingo: Hitting on All Cylinders

Last Thursday Night, I had the opportunity to entertain an old friend and business client from New York who was visiting Chicago for a few days. He asked me to pick a restaurant that was uniquely Chicago for dinner. He is a foody and a picky eater who regularly finds fault with the food at some of New York's finer restaurants. So, I was challenged.

I considered a number of options before deciding on Chilpancingo based on my past experience at other Bahena restaurants as well as its reputation among other LTHers.

Three of us dined there that evening and Chilpancingo delivered up to and above my expectations. My NY friend commented at the end of dinner, "I've certainly not had Mexican food this well prepared in New York."

For starters, one of my dining companions ordered a shrimp cocktail. The traditional cocktail glass came decorated with four extra large shrimp cured in lime juice. The cocktail part of the dish was a wonderfully fragrant and tasty ceviche featuring scallops, radish, avocado and chilis.

My business associate ordered a Sopa Azteca, a wonderfully rich and smoky chili laden broth with chicken, tortillas and cheese.

I had a sopa in a chicken broth and lime with rich dark meat pheasant. It was perked up by the last minute addition of raw jalapenos.

We were fortunate that during the week that we dined, Bahena was featuring each of the five moles that he serves on a daily basis at Ixcapuzalco.

Our third companion, a bit overwhelmed by his first visit to the place, ordered the manchamanteles mole with a medium rare duck breast at my suggestion. The sliuces of duck breast looked wonderful and he pronounced the Manchamanteles quite to his liking.

My visiting dining companion ordered the chichilo mole with a rack of lamb declaring the combination of chocolate and smoky chilis as the perfect accompaniment for the lamb.

I reverted to the regular menu for Borrego con Borracha, a medium rare rack of lamb served over a simply amazing sauce featuring pasilla chilis, beer, tequila and bacon cooked in a lardon style. What's not to like?

Each of our entrees was served with sweet mashed potatoes in a fried tortilla shell and a basket of fresh tortillas. We each enjoyed an excellent variety of Mexican beers with our dinner.

When the dessert cart rolled around, though we were stuffed, we could not resist. I had the Nevado de Chocolate, a wonderfully well prepared molten chocolate cake with berries and ice cream. What a pleasant surprise to see this dish done so well in a world where it is dome so badly with regularity.

One of my dining companions had the house made key lime pie which was simply one of the most spectacular versions of that wonderful desssert I have ever tasted. Creamy, yet tart with a wonderful cool consistency.

The other chose crepes with goat's milk caramel. He pronounced it good though it appeared to be a distant third in our dessert sampling.

Chilpancingo is a real jewel in the Chicago dining scene. The dining room was comfortable unlike that of its sister Ixcapuzalco. The service was excellent and the food was outstanding.

Chilpancingo's great, and it's my go-to restaurant when out-of-town guests who are footing the bill arrive. However, I wonder why it's always empty... out-of-the-way location, not enough publicity?

Visited Chilpancingo this past Saturday for the first time.

Charming room, a lot like Ixcapuluzco (any update on Ixca? moving or closed?) with colorful Mexican paintings, fesitive lights and streamers. The dark wood bar features a huge wall full of tequila, with a library-style sliding ladder to reach the highest of the top-shelf bottles.

The menu also mirrors Ixcapuzulco in many ways, interesting sopes and seafood dishes, excellent sounding moles accompany many of the entrees.

I ordered (along with a few rounds of magaritas) the Sopes Huitalacoches as an appetizer and the duck breast for entree.

The sopes were outstanding, the rich mole (mushroom is one ingredient I remember) on the plate was very tasty, none of it remained by the time the plates were collected.

The duck breast in pumpkin seed mole had a nice crispy skin - duck fat flavors mingled with the greenish mole perfectly. A perfect entree.

Very pleased with the meal and looking forward to returning...

Funny you should ask, today's Tribune has this note in Restaurant Notes:

Ixcapuzalco has a new address; owner Tomas Bahena (brother of founder Geno, who sold his interest some time ago) moved the Mexican restaurant to 2165 N. Western Ave., where there's more seating space and a much bigger kitchen. The phone number hasn't changed; 773-486-7340.

Chicago Tribune April 22, 2005

My last visit to Chilpancingo was less than enchanting, but it was at the end of an intense chow 24 hours, and with two Margaritas, so I am dismissing it as palate fatigue.

More seating space? The old place on Milwaukee was the size of a good barn.

I have enjoyed this restaurant a couple of times (but not lately), but it bothers me that you all had the same side of sweet potatoes with your different choices of entrees. I think he should compose his plates a little more and come up with some unique sides that add something to the overall taste and composition of the dish.

I didn't realize they were owned by different Bahenas. I had the sopes at each and found them *very* similar. Ownership may change, but the recipes must stay very much the same. (Hell, even the menus seem rather similar on moles and such.)

FYI: If Ixcapuzalco has moved, they still haven't put up signs. The signs still read "La Bonita", which used to be in that location. Perhaps the move isn't complete?

extramsg wrote:I didn't realize they were owned by different Bahenas. I had the sopes at each and found them *very* similar. Ownership may change, but the recipes must stay very much the same. (Hell, even the menus seem rather similar on moles and such.)

That part surprised me, particularly given how much Geno figured in articles (still) on the walls when I visited a little over a month ago. Seems like they kept that change pretty quiet.

On the other hand, since they are brothers perhaps they share the same vision, menu, and maybe even kept the same cook? Or the Trib could be wrong, tho I think that is a little less likely in this case.

Chilpancingo gift certificates are now available through restaurant.com for the normal price ($10 for a $25 cert, but you can always find half-off coupons). Not that $20 off is going to make a big dent. Minimum purchase $35, party of 2 or more required, sunday-thurs only, present prior to ordering.

Regarding the Ixcapuzalco move, the giant La Bonita signs are still up. I would imagine that would confuse a lot of people looking for the restaurant.

Most amusing to me: Metromix (along with evite.com, tripadvisor, and the phone book) lists the occupant of 2165 N. Western as "Martha's Italian Cuisine". I wonder how old that is...

And now after more bored googling for martha's:

AOL CityGuide wrote:Joseph Kurian, electrical engineer turned restaurateur, didn't take any risks with his tricky career change. He started a Northern Italian restaurant, choosing a cuisine that's perennially popular, easy to do well, and often successful even when it's done poorly; hired Corosh's Julio Hernandez, an experienced chef who could bring diners from the popular restaurant; situated the entire endeavor in an area starved for dining choices and, for extra insurance, named it after a biblical figure. Don't expect any shocking new dishes -- Vesuvio, Parmagiana and Large Pizza host an old-timers reunion on the menu -- but the service, food quality, and relative dearth of other neighborhood choices should attract a regular clientele. -- Jorge Just

Open mouth, insert foot.

Oh, and here's their website: http://www.aasba.com/

-ed

Martha's probably only closed within the last year or so. Nothing about its collection of Italian-American restaurant cliches exactly screamed "You must try this!" I like Corosh but less for the food (decent bar food) than the garden, so that the chef came from there was not exactly a stunning recommendation (not that I knew that until now).

And, of course Think is virtually across the street, which is arguably Italian, and very good (although it did go downhill a bit after the Check Please episode - seems to have recovered).

Dish reports Chilpancingo is closing at the end of February:

Generoso “Geno” Bahena, the Frontera Grill alum who once appeared as if he would give Rick Bayless a run for his money as Chicago’s prince of Nuevo Mexican cuisine, announced his plans to close Chilpancingo (358 W. Ontario St.; 312-266-9525) at the end of February. “I’m fed up with the reviews I have gotten in [the city of] Chicago, while mediocre restaurants get better [ones],” said Bahena of his decision. The chef struck out on his own with the opening of Ixcapulzalco in April 1999, bringing mole-loving Chicagoans to their knees. In September of the next year, he followed up with Chilpancingo, which earned a spot on Chicago’s Best New Restaurants list. Bahena sold Ixcapulzalco to his brother, Tomas, in 2001 to concentrate on Chilpancingo, but despite positive reviews and an early buzz, it never achieved the popularity his first place originally enjoyed. Ixcapulzalco suffered without its founder on the premises and called it quits about a year ago. Bahena is currently working on a deal to open venues in Las Vegas.

Depressing.

Perhaps my view is different than others but I'm not sad at all to see Chilpancingo go. I was just not impressed with the food or prices and I was very disturbed with the service (although I admit that my first visit impresed me enough to return). And I suspect that the sour grapes quote from Geno regarding his reviews really has nothing to do with his decision to close the restaurant. Chilpancingo has been around long enough such that he had plenty of opportunity to create his own buzz and earn a following. Reviewers did not drive him out of town. In fact, I notice that Phil Vettel gave Chilpancingo 3 stars in his only review of the place. A better explanation is that Chicago has such an amazing variety of great Mexican restaurants that you better stay on top of your game -- food and service -- if you expect to compete and stay in business.

BR wrote:Perhaps my view is different than others but I'm not sad at all to see Chilpancingo go. I was just not impressed with the food or prices and I was very disturbed with the service (although I admit that my first visit impresed me enough to return). And I suspect that the sour grapes quote from Geno regarding his reviews really has nothing to do with his decision to close the restaurant. Chilpancingo has been around long enough such that he had plenty of opportunity to create his own buzz and earn a following. Reviewers did not drive him out of town. In fact, I notice that Phil Vettel gave Chilpancingo 3 stars in his only review of the place. A better explanation is that Chicago has such an amazing variety of great Mexican restaurants that you better stay on top of your game -- food and service -- if you expect to compete and stay in business.

I agree; but at the same time, I'm interested to see what he does in Las Vegas. I'd love to see the Chicagoan go down to the Southwest and show them how to cook Mexican right. Chilpancingo and Ixcapuzalco always had the problem of being off the beaten track; I wonder if Chilpancingo had been located five blocks east, whether it wouldn't still be in business.

JimInLoganSquare wrote:

BR wrote:Perhaps my view is different than others but I'm not sad at all to see Chilpancingo go. I was just not impressed with the food or prices and I was very disturbed with the service (although I admit that my first visit impresed me enough to return). And I suspect that the sour grapes quote from Geno regarding his reviews really has nothing to do with his decision to close the restaurant. Chilpancingo has been around long enough such that he had plenty of opportunity to create his own buzz and earn a following. Reviewers did not drive him out of town. In fact, I notice that Phil Vettel gave Chilpancingo 3 stars in his only review of the place. A better explanation is that Chicago has such an amazing variety of great Mexican restaurants that you better stay on top of your game -- food and service -- if you expect to compete and stay in business.

I agree; but at the same time, I'm interested to see what he does in Las Vegas. I'd love to see the Chicagoan go down to the Southwest and show them how to cook Mexican right. Chilpancingo and Ixcapuzalco always had the problem of being off the beaten track; I wonder if Chilpancingo had been located five blocks east, whether it wouldn't still be in business.

I definitely agree that his location was an issue. It's difficult to park there and it's not in a "walking" area. But I also think he'll have to learn a thing or two to compete in the Vegas restaurant mecca, even though I think the Mexican choices there seem to be more southwestern and Tex-Mex.

Very sad to see it go. I've had two outstanding meals at Chilpancingo, and I prefer the atmosphere and room to the other outstanding Mexican joints in the city...

I'll have to go back for one more.

Its location on a low-traffic street had to have been a huge factor...out of sight, out of mind. But that said, Chilpancingo is probably the Mexican restaurant I eat at most frequently, and I always enjoy surprising people who think they know Mexican food.

I have a business friend from LA who has a great expense account, and we've dined at some terrific places around the country. I took him him to Chilpancingo about 16 months ago (granted, he paid). Of course, all Los Angelenos think they know good Mexican food, but he's still raving about the meal.

My brother and sister-in-law came up from St. Louis to visit and I took them there. My brother lived in Dallas for years, and has a favorite "gourmet Mexican" restaurant in Dallas that he loves to go to (it's been so long since I've been there that I can't remember if it's regional Mexican or gourmet Tex-Mex). My brother suggested that we all get Chilpancingo's tasting menu, which five course (I think), but featured full-sized portions... I didn't clean my plate, but I've never felt so full, even after 2-3x as many (smaller) courses at other restaurants with tasting menus. But it was worth it, and I'm glad we indulged.

I look forward to visiting his restaurant in Vegas when it's launched, and I'll definitely get to Chilpancingo at least once before it closes.

You kind of always knew, in the back of your mind, that this day would come sooner rather than later as the place was nearly always empty. I applaud Chef Bahena for raising the level of quality Mexican food in Chicago with his terrific and unique 5 moles menu.

I will certainly miss Chilpancingo as I have enjoyed it many times and used it as a showcase for visiting friends to illustrate that Chicago is a premiere town for Mexican food.

At least one more visit is in order for me.

Chilpancingo and Ixcapuzalco always had the problem of being off the beaten track; I wonder if Chilpancingo had been located five blocks east, whether it wouldn't still be in business.

I definitely agree that his location was an issue. It's difficult to park there and it's not in a "walking" area.

Its location on a low-traffic street had to have been a huge factor...out of sight, out of mind.

Slightly off topic, but re this: I always wonder what's going through the head of restaurateurs and other retail businesspeople when they open in locations that just about anyone with sense can see are doomed for a whole host of reasons. It must be a combination of ego and denial. They believe that what they have to offer is so special that location doesn't matter, or they're so caught up in their dreams that location doesn't even enter into the equation.

I'm sure the South Loop looked obviously doomed to fail before Gioco became the first restaurant to open in that area. I'm sure Wicker Park seemed doomed to fail before Le Bouchon or whoever first opened there. The fact is, I don't think what's "obvious" in retrospect is obvious at all going in-- looked at objectively, you've got an area with reasonable parking and easy access to the expressways, why wouldn't it be a great place to start a retaurant row? Scoozi's been doing good business not far from there for 15 years.

In any case, Chilpancingo is closing after 5 or 6 years, not 5 or 6 months. Bahena may be soured on the city but he did have a reasonable, if not spectacularly successful, run, and I suspect his problems have as much to do with becoming overextended (he had a long line of restaurants which he tried to open and quickly shut down or, in one case, never opened at all). In any case, I always liked Chilpancingo a lot, recommended it frequently here and on Chowhound, and hope I get back there one last time.

Mike G wrote: In any case, I always liked Chilpancingo a lot, recommended it frequently here and on Chowhound, and hope I get back there one last time.

Why don't we organize a LTH outing to Chilpancingo? If there is any interest, I'll be happy to set it up.

Long time lurker, first time poster (LTLFTP).

IMHO the closing of this restaurant has nothing to do with location. I dined at this establishment a few times, after having dined at Mr. Bahena's other unpronounceable restaurant a few times. The service was so bad at Ixcapulzaco (where I really liked the food) that we asked Mr. Bahena why we needed to wait for an hour to get a glass of water. He didn't care in the least. We went to the new restaurant, hoping this attitude would change but never found it to be the case. Mr. Bahena will never be able to compete in Las Vegas, which is currently the most competitive restaurant city in the country, until he figures out that restaurants are about the customers. Instead of complaining about mediocre reviews, he should try to fix his problems. He is, however, capable of producing some amazing mole.

gleam wrote:Dish reports Chilpancingo is closing at the end of February:

Generoso “Geno” Bahena, the Frontera Grill alum who once appeared as if he would give Rick Bayless a run for his money as Chicago’s prince of Nuevo Mexican cuisine, announced his plans to close Chilpancingo (358 W. Ontario St.; 312-266-9525) at the end of February. “I’m fed up with the reviews I have gotten in [the city of] Chicago, while mediocre restaurants get better [ones],” said Bahena of his decision. The chef struck out on his own with the opening of Ixcapulzalco in April 1999, bringing mole-loving Chicagoans to their knees. In September of the next year, he followed up with Chilpancingo, which earned a spot on Chicago’s Best New Restaurants list. Bahena sold Ixcapulzalco to his brother, Tomas, in 2001 to concentrate on Chilpancingo, but despite positive reviews and an early buzz, it never achieved the popularity his first place originally enjoyed. Ixcapulzalco suffered without its founder on the premises and called it quits about a year ago. Bahena is currently working on a deal to open venues in Las Vegas.

Depressing.

I was also really depressed reading this, and I think what really hurts, is that I agree. He (and many others) have made some amazing things and get little recognition in the media, while other restaurants that focus more on decor and atmosphere become more popular. I had hoped that his love of creating that type of food, and maybe ties to the area would keep him in Chicago nevertheless.

Regarding location, I disagree with the opinions here. Japonais is doing very well in the neighborhood, and they are even more of a hike from the L. Then what about places even further away like Green Zebra? There's also valet parking at Chilpancingo, and would $7 or so really make a difference when you were going to drop a hundred bucks or more for dinner anyway?

And is there really any correllation between the location of good restaurants and high rents? So where are all of the great restaurants in the Gold Coast and Lincoln Park?

Yeah, yeah...I'm bias because I live in the neighborhood...

stevez wrote:Why don't we organize a LTH outing to Chilpancingo? If there is any interest, I'll be happy to set it up.

I think it's too late. Metromix is reporting that it has already closed.

I'm sure the South Loop looked obviously doomed to fail before Gioco became the first restaurant to open in that area. I'm sure Wicker Park seemed doomed to fail before Le Bouchon or whoever first opened there. The fact is, I don't think what's "obvious" in retrospect is obvious at all going in-- looked at objectively, you've got an area with reasonable parking and easy access to the expressways, why wouldn't it be a great place to start a retaurant row? Scoozi's been doing good business not far from there for 15 years.

I considered these arguments when I was writing my post, and figured that somebody else would make them. (I would have tried to deal with them preemptively but didn't want my post to go on any longer than it did.)

In the case of the successful "frontier" restaurants you and others mention, there were factors contributing to success that Chilpancingo didn't have: either low rents, or a huge marketing juggernaut, or a good match between cuisine and neighborhood demographics, or a good match between cuisine and neighborhood "feel", or being part of a media-darling restaurant group, or being located in a huge condo building with lots of rich people in it. When all the factors other than low rents are missing, it's best to look for low rents! But when you have none of these other factors going for you, and you're paying high rent, you've taken on a challenge.

Fujisan wrote:

stevez wrote:Why don't we organize a LTH outing to Chilpancingo? If there is any interest, I'll be happy to set it up.

I think it's too late. Metromix is reporting that it has already closed.

That's a bummer. I just tried calling for a Valentine's reservation and there was no answer. I liked the place quite a bit and would have liked to have had one more chance to check it out.

I called. They're closed.

Very weird. There is obviously something going on here about which we know nothing.

I really liked both of Bahena's restaurants, but this Vegas venture could be a Class-A disaster. Didn't Bayless try opening a place out there a few years back? Didn't take, so to speak. As noted up the board, unless he already has a deal inked and some deep pockets and a great location lined up, I'm thinkin' coals to Newcastle.

I live down the street and on the way to work this morning I noticed that they were closed.