The Slab [BBQ / Jamaican, Chatham]

About two years ago I ran into J.R. Pierce of Harold's Chicken fame (at Honky Tonk, no less), and he told me one of his favorite South Side barbecue places was The Slab. Rene G. correctly identified it as a storefront that was a Tropic Island ten years ago, and which still carried a Jamaican menu, whatever the relationship (or total lack of connection) between the two iterations. It's just a few blocks "in" from Barbara Ann's, between Cottage and MLK on 79th, and across the street from Izola's, which I'm always missing at GNR nomination time. Some other hits are here.

In any case, The Slab is still there, and marketing quite aggressively on the South Side - I got a windshield flyer once at 61st and Ellis, and there is a big billboard for it near Uncle John's. I had a middling slab of baby back (as described on the menu) ribs from The Slab that a colleague carried out in late 2008, and my first in-person experience today, in which I sampled the jerk wings along with a tip and link combo. These celly pictures are horrid, so I'll do my best with words below them.









Nicely detailed space on a busy, well-swept street with metered parking. The woman who initially answered the phone was really speaking Patois and wanting to hear it in return, so the call was passed on and I eventually got my order in 15 minutes before arrival. Prices are reasonable, though portions are comparatively small; specials start at $1.99 and "mini" sizes of the tips, links, or wings are available in addition to the gargantuan "small" orders served by most other aquaria. Like That's-A-Burger they hand cut their own fries (which here turn out more like steamed new potatoes, rustic but undercooked and not at all my style) and offer loose-packed turkey and beef burgers, which I have yet to sample. There is a fuller menu here and many window specials not pictured on the board above.

Jerk wings were exceptionally good, of the dry and chewy style - no stew like Ja's here (a style I also like). Pulverized bonnet peppers, salt, and burnt sugar dominated the rub, which had cooked into a smoldering poultice one had to really work through to get to the piping hot interior, which still retained some good moisture. My lips are tingling and a little numb hours later. The side cup of sauce contained the identifiable clove, allspice, and real sweetness for a nice balance. The standard soft Jamaican bread was fine but did not have as much gluten and caramel character as what Ja's uses.

Tip and link combo was a disappointment. Like the slab I had tried last year, there was no identifiable woodsmoke flavor or bark, just pork and sugar in the tips, and the texture was problematic, rubbery and oily, probably a combination of cooking them too hot, holding for a while, and then tossing in the fryer to reheat for my order. Fries were obviously hand-cut (they use a very small potato with lots of pretty skin) but really underdone. The link itself was at least quite tasty, with a finer grind and more cumin than Uncle John's, but a similar sage and sugar profile. I ate the link and filed the rest.

The folks were nice and the place very well-maintained, and enough good stuff on the menu that I'll be back. I might try the full spares next time and ask in advance when they're coming right off whatever apparatus they have back there. A few other customers walked out with burgers (one actually ate-in at one of the few, tiny available tables) and that looks like where they have some game in addition to the jerk offerings. For tips I'll be quite happy with UJ and Barbara Ann's - the latter enjoyed lovingly from my room at the convenient adjoining hotel.

The Slab
537 E 79th St
Chicago, IL
(773) 723-7522

Note: there was an unmarked hot dog cart being pushed down 79th by a young man intermittently honking a bicycle horn and waving a dog on tongs. I didn't get a clear view to see if it was bacon-wrapped or not.

Slightly OT, but is there a joint anywhere that has BOTH good q, and good, fresh cut fries?
I've never had a decent q at Smokin M's, so that's not an answer I'm looking for. IMO they are purveyors of leather when it comes to pork. They do a decent fry, yes, but their tips? Sorry, not a fan at all.

seebee wrote:Slightly OT, but is there a joint anywhere that has BOTH good q, and good, fresh cut fries?
I've never had a decent q at Smokin M's, so that's not an answer I'm looking for. IMO they are purveyors of leather when it comes to pork. They do a decent fry, yes, but their tips? Sorry, not a fan at all.

If you're talking aquarium style, Big Ed's way north might be your best bet. If you're open to all kinds of barbecue, Smoque's fries are very good, and their barbecue is pretty good.

seebee wrote:Slightly OT, but is there a joint anywhere that has BOTH good q, and good, fresh cut fries?
I've never had a decent q at Smokin M's, so that's not an answer I'm looking for. IMO they are purveyors of leather when it comes to pork. They do a decent fry, yes, but their tips? Sorry, not a fan at all.

Smokin M's is certainly frustrating. I can think of 2 stops there where I had tips that easily rivaled any I've had at Honey 1. At the same time, I've had plenty of tips that were just decent, and my last order was genuinely terrible. On the other hand, I've always enjoyed the beef or pork sandwiches, and find myself just ordering those and maybe some links more often than not, and coming away happy with what I get.

gleam wrote:

seebee wrote:Slightly OT, but is there a joint anywhere that has BOTH good q, and good, fresh cut fries?
I've never had a decent q at Smokin M's, so that's not an answer I'm looking for. IMO they are purveyors of leather when it comes to pork. They do a decent fry, yes, but their tips? Sorry, not a fan at all.

If you're talking aquarium style, Big Ed's way north might be your best bet. If you're open to all kinds of barbecue, Smoque's fries are very good, and their barbecue is pretty good.

I've never met good Q I didn't like, TRUST me. Carolina pulled pork, Texas brisket, and smoked turkey, aquarium smoker tips, it's all good in my eyes.

Smoque and Big Ed's - fresh cut?

I was kinda lookin for Aquarium Chicago Q that also had fresh cut fries. I really wish I liked Smokin M's more, but the letdowns I've had there...I just can't take the teasing anymore.

Smoque's are definitely fresh cut. I haven't had Big Ed's (maybe someday...), but I believe they're well-handled prefab fries, now that I look at the thread more closely. You might be able to convince Ed to go fresh cut, though, since he does seem to care about the quality of his sides.

Santander wrote:Tip and link combo was a disappointment.

I wholeheartedly agree. Maybe a year and a half ago I tried the tips and links at The Slab and thought they were pretty awful, really not worth eating. I suppose I should have posted at the time but somehow couldn't work up any enthusiasm.

Santander wrote:Jerk wings were exceptionally good

That's good to hear but with The Slab flanked by two top notch jerk places—Tropic Island (419 E 79th) and Uncle Joe's (8211 S Cottage Grove)—I wonder when I'll get around to trying them.

Santander wrote:The folks were nice and the place very well-maintained, and enough good stuff on the menu that I'll be back.

Was noodling around the south side last week and stopped at The Slab, could not get anyone's attention, it was early afternoon and wanted to hit a few places, so I snapped a few pictures and boogied. Sounds like I didn't miss anything exceptional, though I will be back to try both jerk and BBQ fairly soon.

Rene G wrote:That's good to hear but with The Slab flanked by two top notch jerk places—Tropic Island (419 E 79th) and Uncle Joe's (8211 S Cottage Grove)—I wonder when I'll get around to trying them.

Tropic Island has moved a little farther east to 533 E 79th.

Peter, I remember Tropic Island, at least the run down one that was on the north side of 79th, having house made ginger beer, which the current Tropic Island does not. Is my memory fuzzy?

Enjoy,
Gary

Tropic Island
533 E 79th st
Chicago, IL

The Slab
537 E 79th St
Chicago, IL
773-723-7522

G Wiv wrote:Was noodling around the south side last week and stopped at The Slab, could not get anyone's attention, it was early afternoon and wanted to hit a few places, so I snapped a few pictures and boogied. Sounds like I didn't miss anything exceptional, though I will be back to try both jerk and BBQ fairly soon.

I hope their BBQ has improved in the couple years since I visited The Slab. I'd rank the tips I sampled toward the bottom of what I've tried in Chicago over many years. Enjoy!

G Wiv wrote:Tropic Island has moved a little farther east to 533 E 79th.

Peter, I remember Tropic Island, at least the run down one that was on the north side of 79th, having house made ginger beer, which the current Tropic Island does not. Is my memory fuzzy?

Yesterday I made my first visit to Tropic Island's new location. I loved the original location on 79th near Jeffery but had been disappointed by the chicken at their Calumet City shop so I wasn't sure what to expect. I'm happy to report the chicken was good, not up to the best from the original but very solid. Sauce, served in tiny containers on the side, is exactly as I remember and remains one of my favorites in Chicago.

I forgot to ask about ginger beer but saw no evidence that they still make their own. You remember correctly about "the run down one." Their spicy and pulpy brew was one of my favorite beverages. Bottles of D&G just don't compare.

Rene G wrote:

G Wiv wrote:Tropic Island has moved a little farther east to 533 E 79th.

Peter, I remember Tropic Island, at least the run down one that was on the north side of 79th, having house made ginger beer, which the current Tropic Island does not. Is my memory fuzzy?

Yesterday I made my first visit to Tropic Island's new location. I loved the original location on 79th near Jeffery but had been disappointed by the chicken at their Calumet City shop so I wasn't sure what to expect. I'm happy to report the chicken was good, not up to the best from the original but very solid. Sauce, served in tiny containers on the side, is exactly as I remember and remains one of my favorites in Chicago.

I forgot to ask about ginger beer but saw no evidence that they still make their own. You remember correctly about "the run down one." Their spicy and pulpy brew was one of my favorite beverages. Bottles of D&G just don't compare.

So how good is TI's Jerk Chicken lately? I used to be a regular there, but had seen a semi-decline.. and then tried Uncle Joe's and have never gone back since. Does it match Uncle Joe's now? (from 82nd and Cottage Grove I mean.. there is a new outpost in Hyde Park now too, but I hear it isnt nearly as good)..

Also, BTW, while I never did see home-made Ginger Beer at TI (even in the past).. I do know that there is home-made Ginger Beer at Cafe Trinidad, not very far away (or at least used to be last year, I havent made it out there yet this summer)..

c8w