Driving up Western in an area filled with tire shops, Polish dive bars and delis, and one or two hipster hangouts, I spotted this intriguing place out of the corner of my eye:
Filichia:
Inside, I found a store with mostly barren shelves that did have some interesting Italian sodas and syrups, seating for about 20, and a deli counter up front. From behind the counter, a friendly guy took a break from chopping onions to tell me a little about the place. Filichia has been around for about 6 months, and wants to be an old-school Italian deli with a focus on eat-in and takeout prepared foods in addition to a few hard-to-find Italian products. Business has been slow, but he says they're committed to earning a reputation by using only the best and freshest ingredients, and preparing as much as is reasonable from scratch.
Meatball Hero:
The menu calls this a "sandwich" rather than a hero, but friendly-guy said it's modeled after a life-altering hero he had at someplace in Brooklyn that's been written about in the NY Times. The "secret" to that one, he said, was the addition of creamy ricotta. I agree that the ricotta added a very nice element to the sandwich, but what won me over even more was the terrific house made red sauce, which was just perfect. Add some outstanding crisp and light bread from Biondillo, which I think competes favorably with D'Amato's, and you get one hell of a meatball sandwich, or hero, or whatever.
Filichia has about a half-dozen sandwich options in addition to this one, plus a number of pastas, all of which use the same good red sauce, and some prepared salads that I didn't try.
Filichia Food & Imports
959 N. Western Ave
(773) 697-8061
Biondillo Bakery
4900 West Division Street
(773) 921-8282
...defended from strong temptations to social ambition by a still stronger taste for tripe and onions." Screwtape in
The Screwtape Letters by CS Lewis
Fuckerberg on Food