I dropped in this late afternoon with the better half, finding Pork Shoppe as we were walking around to our car parked behind A Lamp and Fixture. I had a craving for BBQ, and as we rounded the corner, I got a whiff of fruit-wood smoke. I was hooked. We had to try this.
A truly personable and articulate host, perhaps one of the two owners, informed me that the hardwoods used were mostly hickory and oak; then the chef chimed in from the back and said that, indeed, he was using apple chips in the smoker as well. We also leaned that this was a locovore restaurant. Virtually all ingredients were sourced from Illinois, except for the chicken, which was from Amish country in Indiana.
The spouse and I settled on a slab of St. Louis ribs, a quarter pound of pork belly pastrami, and assorted side dishes; mac and cheese, cole slaw, and potato salad. We found prices very reasonable, as they have managed to keep the full slab prices below the dreaded $20.00 price point.
We found the ribs very good, indeed. We really appreciated the quality of the dry rub, spices were complex, and we found the smoking subtle, less forward than Smoque or Smoke Daddy, but still imparting a light smoky flavor to the ribs. Most importantly, the basic pork flavors were full, deep, and satisfying; there was an intensity to the pork flavor that suggested heritage pork, or wild boar. The ribs themselves were the real stength here, and I considered eating them without any additional sauce.
Three sauces were offered, we tried and liked the sweet sauce and the tart and tangy ( vinegar based) sauce. Neither of us tried the hot; we weren't in the mood.
The sides were all pretty good, mac and cheese was creamy and satisfying, a little less intense than Smoque Daddy's, but a good complement to the ribs. Cole slaw was good, and very well priced at a dollar a serving.
The real star here was the pork belly pastrami. It was just awesome. The whole pork belly is spiced and cold aged for at least a week, then is subjected to 15 hours of smoking. It is then sliced and served cool, either alone, or on a sandwich. The fat was unctuous, it melted on the tongue like the fat from good Iberico ham, and was delicious, while the muscle was scented with fruitwood smoke, and tasted like reduced, intensified, pork roast. Just sublime... and quite filling!
Get it while you can - they can run out. Beef pastrami is also coming back on the menu, as they have another batch nearing completion. I cannot wait to see if it competes with the hot pastrami at Manny's Deli.
I don't live in the neighborhood, I don't know how often I'll get back, but I know where I'm stopping when I pick up our lamp!