Had dinner at G&tG last night.
The room wowed us. I’m a little shy to fess up to being overly impressed with atmospherics, or anything other than the food, but I totally dug the fireplace grills over the bar, the charred cedar wall (not, as I suspected, a reference to the Chicago Fire but rather a continuation of the fireplace theme), the comfy dark tones, it’s a very pleasant room (some will, of course, hate it because it does have personality – and for the same reason, others, like me, will love it for the same reason). Here’s a shot of the room from the Belly Cam:

There was nothing on the menu that seemed a retread of anything we’ve had anywhere else in Chicago, not one “oh, that again” feeling. There was a helluva lot of inventiveness in the ingredient mix, and everything we had seemed to be well-executed .
Bread: though I share Dom’s concern about “monetizing” (though that sounds more sinister than “charging for”) bread, we had the Stecca (long, nicely browned rolls), which was very good and came with garlic olive oil and delicious anchovy butter (anchovy seems a pull-through theme on the current menu). It was only $4, and given the reasonable pricing of other items on the menu, did not seem like a burden to the bill.
Shaved Kohlrabi:
Salad has always seemed to me more work than it’s worth, but I’m glad my daughter wanted to order this one as it was finely cut and included fennel, blueberries and evalon, a mild goat cheese I hadn’t had before (and which did not,
as posted earlier in this thread by Lancelac, dominate the dish -- FWIW, the folks at G&tG read your comments here, and they do take criticism to heart, so it's possible the dish was modified based in part of posts like Lancelac's). With toasted almonds, there was a lot going on in this salad.
Sauteed Green Beans: fish sauce vinaigrette was a good touch, adding some depth and continuing the fish motif that started with the butter. We kept nibbling at these beans throughout the meal, which was fairly protein-heavy (by our choice;
no tofu,though).
Fried Pemaquids (pic below): these medium-sized oysters were delicately fried and served with a few touches of egg and capers, another interesting combination of flavors but still a relatively simple dish. I’m finding that I’m tending to prefer simplicity, and I agree with something Mark Mendez said to me, and excuse me if I quote at length from this truly imaginative and brilliant chef: “And as you get older, you realize, it takes more courage to put two or three things on a plate than it does to put twenty things on a plate, because if you screw one of those things up, it’s really obvious that you made a mistake, or you don’t know or aren’t very good at what you do. And that’s something I learned from another chef but I didn’t really get it. That’s one of those Zen Buddha moments that you have, where, when I worked for Paul Bartolotta he said “Think of what you can take away from a dish to make it better instead of add.” And I didn’t really understand that, and it took me like twenty years to kind of really understand that. And now I totally get it.” I think I do, too, though some might consider cooking an oyster to be an unnecessary elaboration.
Seared Scallops: we liked the combo of soft and delicate sea creature paired with soft and delicate veal and a camponata, which added a vegetal note and touch of spice. This was probably my favorite dish of the night, not terribly complex, but very satisfying (perhaps
because not terribly complex; cf; Mendez, above).
Escargot and Goat Balls (pic below): sounding like a dish named by
sometime pornographic-punster Phillip Foss, this dish intrigued us – particularly with the promise of bagna cauda (more anchovy!), but it didn’t quite come together, and it was about at this point in the dinner that I started noticing that there was a lot of salty flavors on my palate. Now, I’m the kind of guy who likes to actually see grains of salt on my steak, but I felt like maybe there was a little too much salt in some of these dishes (could have been happenstance or the kind of dishes we were ordering).
Ham fries: good crispy fries, but just a hint of ham. The spuds are fried in rice bran oil then tossed with ham fat. Great concept, but much like Hot Doug’s duck fries, I strained to discern the meat flavor.
Pig face: love the name, and the arugula was a good balance to the richness of this dish. There’s a lot of fat on a face, especially maybe a pig face, and this was a very rich dish, full of good flavors. Each order has two maybe 3.5 inch diameter disks of fried hog visage, and it was a lot to take at the end of a meal, but we ate it all.
Grave regrets: we forgot to order the Pan Fried Shishitos (a type of pepper that is sporadically hot, that I don’t think I’ve ever had) or the Rabbit Rilletes (which I really wanted to try and just forgot to). There’s many items on this menu that promise unpredictable flavor combinations that I wanted to sample, but I may have blown my chance as it seems the plan is to change the menu quite often (some of the dishes already mentioned in this thread were not on last night's menu)
Ms. Izard seemed all business – she had her back to the room most of the time, which is fully understandable; the place has been packed (booked through mid-September), and she’s got a lot of mercurial menu items to manage.
G&tG smells good, like pork, hit me as soon as I walked through the door, and you’d better be ready to take it home with you (my shirt has been scented with pig meat, and I hung it where it will lend porkulence to my office throughout the day).
Co-owners Rob Katz and Kevin Boehm were in the house, and they were very hands-on, seeming to have a grip on the crew and the crowd. I have immense regard for both of these restaurateurs who I feel are just beginning to make their mark on the Chicago food scene (four restaurants…with one more coming in November, about which I could not wrest much more info than the opening date, though it’s known it will be in the old Tizi Melloul space).
An added bonus to eating at G&tG: our own
Dippity-do-da-egg is a server. And on that note, our server, Christina, was everything one could want a server to be: friendly, not pushy in any way, attentive and, perhaps most importantly, knowledgeable about every item on the menu. My daughter mentioned after the meal, “I love it when you can trust the server,” and we could.
G&tG can do a goat leg for $100. Have to order in advance. Might be a good LTH event.
"Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins