Many good things to be had, not least of which include mackeral, squid, cuttlefish, south Slav 'zas (sweet tomato sauce and all) and bad ass sladoled (gelatto). Far more even tourist traps, deceiving Lonely Planet recs (or just about anything they say; no wonder I rocked Egypt, I didn't own one then) and way way way too man touristos. Full report pending.
"By the fig, the olive..." Surat Al-Teen, Mecca 95:1"