Sinnamon! Let Me In! (Manchester, CT)

Perhaps like me, you can't seem to dump the file that has those irritating lyrics in it. I tried to resist the impulse to use them to title this thread, but the problem is, they capture my experience of the restaurant. Since I discovered The Sinnamon Shop in Manchester, Connecticut, I can't seem to keep the thought of this little diner out of my head. It's kind of like the "knock, knock" percussion in that song.

If the Michelin Guide had a feeling for pancakes, the Sinnamon Shop would be rated "Worth a Journey." * Their pancakes were the very best of my life. As I ate the plate-sized, thin-but-not-too-thin, chewy (yet nearly delicate) pancakes it was clear that there was a secret. But what was the secret? As much as the texture spoke to me, it was the flavor that transported me, but which I couldn't name. Then I had it: the "breath of the wok!" In this case, the grill. But I had to know for sure, so I asked Chef Joe for the secret. He looked mystified, then said, "It's the grill. I can't make these at home, even with the same batter, I've tried."

The Sinnamon Shop is a place of the type that hardly exists anymore, a neighborhood breakfast and lunch spot where a single chef-owner, Joe Sinnamon, and a talented baker named Chrissie make everything from scratch. Potato salad, egg salad, tuna salad, cole slaw. All are made from scratch, as are the daily specials. Most people order whatever Joe is cooking today. A couple of weeks ago, it was carefully cooked corned beef and cabbage with parsley-showered, buttered potatoes and not-too-soft carrots. Last week, I had rare roast beef with mashed potatoes and mushroom sauce.

Unfortunately, I can't post my pictures right now, but if I could, you would see a spotless kitchen and an extroverted chef who seems to know the name of everyone who walks in the door (kind of like Patty in Skokie). Most of the customers I talked to have been coming here for years, some daily.

What could be more comforting, or more rare these days than from-scratch hot cross buns? There are also four or more kinds of fresh muffins daily, made by Chrissie. Her recent desserts included Boston Cream Pie, Gingerbread with real whipped cream, Apricot-Cherry Upside-down cake and what I believe is a Sinnamon shop original, Conscience Cake (layers of angel food and Devil's food cake with whipped cream frosting).

But let me get to the point. This week is the biggest day of the year at the Sinnamon Shop, Good Friday. Joe starts with a bushel of local clams to make his Good Friday clam chowder, and I am told the line at lunch goes out the door. I will be ordering ahead by phone and picking up my lunch early.

*I'm shocked that the Sterns haven't discovered it, but I found no mention on roadfood.com.


The Sinnamon Shop
21 Oak St
Manchester, CT 06040
(860) 643-8658

Today I return to the Sinnamon Shop for those pancakes, and to check out the lineup of daily specials and scratch desserts. American Chop Suey (served with bread and butter) is today's lunch. Monday was Baked Ham with Mustard Sauce and Scalloped Potatoes. Tuesday: grilled Chicken Breast with Red Pepper Sauce on Noodles.Thursday: Chicken Mandarin Salad. Friday: Pan-broiled Fresh Flounder. The dessert lineup: Peach Pie, Chocolate Peanut Butter Cream Pie, California Apple Cake, Pineapple Upsidedown Cake, Chocolate Angel Food Cake with Strawberry Filling and Coconut Cream Frosting. "The pancakes?" you ask. I wasn't wrong in the OP. Still the best I've ever had.

Addendum: asked about her inspiration, Chrissie informs me that all the recipes are Joe Sinnamon's. He says he's never heard of Maida Heatter or Rose Levy Berenbaum.
All the recipes are either his mother's or the "old ones," or something he made up (like the Peanut Butter Cream Pie.)