Here's my thoughts on Big Ed's from the recent LTH lunch on the 28th:
The north 'burbs reincarnation of a southside rib joint, housed in a small fast food type building reminiscent of a KFC or Brown's with moderate table seating, provided a clean, casual, comfortable dining experience with a high level of service in a welcoming atmosphere. The weekday lunch crowd was a mix of local residents and office crowd. The (counter only, though the food was brought to the to the table) service was attentive, friendly, and pleasant. All the limited seating was taken by 12:15P, but there was no rushed feeling, and the lunch business appeared to be somewhat more weighted to take out, though that may have been due to all the tables having been occupied.
As for my opinion of the food -
Tips - Very good. Nicely smoked, good quality meat, with a very positive meat/bark to fat/bone ratio. A very slight bit on the drier side, but not objectionably so, and somewhat unusual compared to the often greasy and more fat laden tips I've had over the years on the southside. A very good product, IMO.
Links - Also very good. Moderately coarse texture with recognizable heat and spicing, which worked pretty well with the sauce. Another decent product. I'd like to do some side-by-side tasting with Uncle Johns, and yes, Hillary's Kenosha location.
Ribs - Didn't really work for me. I much prefer baby backs to spares, so I'm definitely biased in this regard. The ribs were on the drier side, which seems somewhat typical of the southside shack type experience. Better than a lot of slabs I had on the southside, including a recent visit to Uncle Johns, but I'm generally not positively impressed with much of the southside shack incarnations of spare ribs.
Cat Fish - Also very good. Surprisingly so. A very nicely and substantially seasoned, reasonably coarse crust, cooked perfectly done and having a nice bit of crisp without being over cooked. Good flavor and good texture here. They hit it right, Tuesday, with this one. I'd like to try this preparation on a filet I better prefer to cat, which is far from a fav of mine. It was that good.
Brisket - I'm somewhat agnostic about this product. It did nothing to win me over, being again a bit on the drier side, with an O.K., but definitely not great, flavor experience. It could not stand alone w/o the sauce. Smoque provides an extremely high standard bearer, IMO, so for me, smoked beef brisket is a pretty tough nut to crack around here.
Sides - Range from decent to very good, and show a great deal of effort, which I found to be unusual in the southside shack experience. The beans and mac were good, not spectacular, but showed effort and attention with very much a "homemade" taste and texture, particularly the mac. The greens appeared great on the surface, but had a slightly sweet element, confirmed by the counter staff, which did not work for me. I'm sure it's a personal thing as others seem to liked them, but I much prefer my greens slightly bitter, offset with the natural sweetness from the inclusion of smoked pork, such ham hocks. I've yet to find these home-cooked style greens in a rib shack. The corn bread was also very good, with moderately coarse texture, deep flavor, and a good balance between dry and moist, w/o any overt sweetness. The coleslaw was excellent. Coarse, rustic cut, with substantial texture in a very thin mayo based sauce with substantial vinegar. The predominate vinegar flavor in a mayo based sauce was an unexpected, but good flavor experience. I was pleasantly surprised with the effort put into the sides in the context of the rib shack experience.
Desert - Pretty much a positive repeat of the "sides" comments above for the two items I tasted, that being the pound cake and peach cobbler. Surprisingly good in this context.
Sauce - I got it as semi-sweet, relatively mild, very slightly on the thinner side, but not "vinegar based thin", with a slight bit of tang to foil the sweetness. I'd best describe it as "balanced". Not quite as thick as some of the southside places, or Hecky's for that matter, which is a good thing IMO. I'd like a "hot" option, so I suppose I'll be adding a little habanero sauce to my carryout cups, at least at this point in time.
I found Ed's to be a positive experience. The word "effort", comes to mind foremost. They seem to be really trying, and having success, at that. There's a lot of good here, IMO. If they can remain reasonably consistent, I might be able put their tips on my list of "things I'll drive across the city for". More visits and time will tell. I very much like that I seem be able to get good tips and decent links, along with some good homemade sides, in an inviting environment w/o trekking to the southside. I believe Ed has the ability to compete with the south (and west) sides. Actually, I believe he's already there in some instances (tips, links, cat fish), and perhaps even occasionally a bit better in an ancillary few (sides, deserts). I look forward to further visits.
Thanks for the opportunity to enjoy this lunch!
Eddie
Alright! Why a Duck? Why a no Chicken? - Chico Marx