I'm back from my whirlwind visit to the Pacific Northwest and my 30 hours in Seattle. Literally, the first thing that caught my eye when I got off the train downtown was a department store window display. In retrospect, it rather poetically sums up my vacation.

Not yet distended when I arrived in Seattle, I promptly deposited my bags at the hotel and made the short walk to
Dahlia Lounge. I had planned to have only an appetizer here for pacing purposes, but the menu was too enticing, and I was ravenous from travel.
Washington peaches with country ham, pickled peppers and arugula were happy food--sweet, salty, spicy and sour--and made me wish I had the ordering power to try Dahlia Lounge’s two other savory peach offerings. The ham dish also made me wonder if all of the peaches I usually eat in summer are actually overripe. Before this lunch in Seattle, I had never had a really firm peach that tasted precisely at the peak of ripeness.

Wood-grilled salmon over farro with chanterelles and red wine pickled huckleberries were wild and delicious. When I told my server that I didn’t want to get too full but was interested in the salmon, she warned me that this dish was pure, local comfort food. And that it was--rich, creamy and wholesome without being muddled.

From Dahlia Lounge, I walked and ended up at
Pike Place Market.

It was crowded, loud and not pleasant for browsing. Somehow hungry again, I purchased an absurdly large bag of apple chips from the dried fruit vendor at the market entrance and headed for the piers.

I hadn’t yet spent any time near the water in Seattle, so
Elliott’s seemed like a good choice for happy hour. Unfortunately, I only had room for a half dozen oysters because of the foolish amount of dried applies I ate on the short walk down to the restaurant. The Hama Hama oysters from Mid Hood Canal, WA that were the chef’s happy hour selection were just OK. Smallish with a medium saltiness, they’re not the type of oyster I prefer.

After a nap, I headed to
Spur. I was pleasantly surprised by how intimate and inviting the interior was. The well-stocked bar was one of the most cozy at which I’ve ever sat. With more time to spare in Seattle, I could have tippled there for hours. Not yet having the hang of happy hour culture, I didn’t plan to get to Spur by a specific time, but I lucked out and arrived just before the end of their happy hour specials and had an excellent, inexpensive first drink. I didn’t see the bartender measure or taste anything while I was there, but my cocktail turned out well, a Broken Spur #2 made of bourbon, cointreau, lemon and amaretto.
To eat, I ordered the lamb tartare with heirloom tomatoes, shiso and sous vide egg. The clean flavors and beautiful plating startled me.

After Spur, I walked almost to Capitol Hill to visit
Sitka and Spruce at Melrose Market. This was another comfortable, romantic space, set up like an open country kitchen. I took a seat at the window counter and requested that my dinner be a surprise. The server brought me the local albacore with New Mexico chiles tossed with black rice and aioli, which was outstanding. I usually don’t care for rice salads and am not typically a fan of the texture of fish against rice or pasta, but here it seemed the most natural of combinations. This dish packed some serious heat without overpowering the delicious, fresh fish.

I don’t drink coffee, but I hiked back up Pike St. to
Victrola the next morning to buy several pounds of beans to gift.

Then, I had a civilized breakfast of macarons and tea at
Belle Epicurean.

I almost changed my mind about breakfast upon taking a closer look at the pastry case but was too hungry to move on. Belle Epicurean is known for its brioche buns, traditional varieties and a bun of the month (pineapple-rum for September). The brioche, croissants, macarons and most everything looked very flat, like they had all been deflated or sat on. My pistachio macaron wasn’t bad, but the meringues could have used more air, and the cream was concentrated in the very center, like a whoopie pie.

After breakfast, I took a walk and came across this peculiar building.


The name made me think prep school; the architecture made me think Art Deco factory; and the rubber chickens hanging in the windows and bright red booths made me think Chinese fast food. I got excited for a moment by the possibility that I might be able to supplement my sad, sugary breakfast with some egg foo young or the like. Unfortunately, it turns out that
Wexley doesn’t serve food; it’s an eccentric advertising firm.
Next, I planned to visit the
Theo Chocolate factory but waited 30 minutes, and no bus came. I decided I can wait plenty for buses in Chicago--no need to do it while on vacation. Aware I was risking getting to
Salumi at peak lunch hour, I headed there anyway after a stint in Olympic Sculpture Park.
I didn’t think I’d need to memorize the exact address; walking down 3rd Avenue, I figured Salumi would be obvious with a line out the door. There was practically no one there at just past noon!

I had a heaping of oxtail and peppers, which was deeply satisfying if a smidgen oily. Further, I succumbed to the table wine and celebrated my good fortune of no wait.

Note the change in Salumi’s chalkboard during my meal. More luck.


After lunch, I explored the galleries of Pioneer Square. I saw some very impressive work, but perhaps my favorite were the fluorescent paintings of Seattle-based
Tim Siciliano being shown at
Catherine Person Gallery, just a few doors down from Salumi. Siciliano seems to draw inspiration from China, Bosch and Matt Groening, and skewered swine recur in his work. In this detail, kangaroo preside at a pig roast.

With about an hour left in Seattle, I decided to roam Chinatown. I picked up some longan milk tea at
Ambrosia to fuel me on my walk.

I chose Ambrosia from the multitude of milk tea places because its menus seemed the most extensive.



Though I wish I had had the time to explore outside of downtown--just glimpsing the Vietnamese restaurants and markets located between the Othello and Columbia City stops of the Link made me excited--I think I did well with the time I had and by myself. The food culture seems quite rich in Seattle, and I look forward to returning.

Dahlia Lounge2001 4th Ave.
Seattle, WA 98121-2505
206-682-4142
Elliott’sPier 56, 1200 Alaskan Way
Seattle, WA 98101
206-623-4340
Spur113 Blanchard St.
Seattle, WA 98121
206-728-6706
Sitka & Spruce1531 Melrose Ave. (inside Melrose Market)
Seattle, WA 98122
206-324-0662
Victrola310 E. Pike St.
Seattle, WA 98122
206-462-6259
Belle Epicurean1206 4th Ave.
Seattle WA 98101
206-262-9404
Salumi309 3rd Ave. S.
Seattle, WA 98104
206-621-8772
Ambrosia
619 S. King St.
Seattle, WA 98104
206-623-9028