I’m a little delinquent making this post; we visited about three weeks ago with four friends. We ordered a lot as a group so we could share tastes and, as a result, between small tastes of many things (not everything is pictured here) and time passing, my recollections are less-than-perfect of some of the things. Too much food! As a result, I’ll invite my friends to chime in on their own dishes as well as their take on the place as a whole.
First note: depending, of course, on your starting point (ours is Evanston), this is not a quick or easy trip. And on a Saturday early evening, the Kennedy can be deadly. Took us an hour just to get here and raised the question, why is this particular restaurant, given its emphasis, here? The answer, we were told, was simple: this is where the owners grew up and this is what they wanted to do. Hard to complain, though I have to admit it still seems like cognitive dissonance to me. But I won’t say it doesn’t fit for the simple reason that they seem to be doing a good business and have for a number of years now. Further evidence: all the people in the house. Other evidence: the length of time it took to get things (though maybe that’s evidence of a problem. Hmmm.) Worst of all, the length of time it took to get drinks.
Our server, whose name I have mercifully forgotten, was a throwback. Every one of us was “honey,” or “sweetheart.” Gum-cracking (no, not literally) and larger-than-life and not even remotely my cup of tea. It may not be an issue for you, but I find the older I get, the more the server’s personality can make a big difference in the allowances I’m willing to make. She was a little, uh, off-putting to me. But the key, ultimately, is the food and, despite several excellent dishes, I don’t see returning. Nothing exceptional, nothing extraordinary, and nothing compelling us to return.
Empanadas (ground beef, chimichurri sauce)Very good. At this point, my memory has become a bit hazy, so I can’t go on about the filling or the pastry or even the chimichurri. Just an overall recollection that this was on the plus side of the ledger and I’d order them again.
Avocado Fries (cilantro, chipotle-lime aioli)Just plain odd. The pieces of avocado were breaded and deep-fried; nothing else in the way of flavor was added that I could tell and so you’re getting pretty much plain, unadulterated avocado. I like avocado, but these could definitely have used something to set them off.
Crispy Chickpea Frites (date agrodolce, garlic aioli, harissa honey)Not very crispy by the time they reached the table. The date agrodolce was quite good, but limp “frites” are generally not a taste treat.
Tostones (crispy plantains, pulled pork, cilantro-lime slaw, harissa honey)Very enjoyable. As the picture shows, the portion was very generous for finger-food and everything hit the mark. Would order these again in a heartbeat.
Blue Scotch Kale Salad (massaged Michigan kale, avocado, cherry tomatoes, pickled red onions, cojita cheese, citrus vinaigrette)A lot going on here. All of it good. We’d never heard of “massaged” kale until Paul Virant introduced us to it at a farm dinner out at Slagel Family Farms. Till then, kale had always been one of those greens that was good for me but that I didn’t particularly enjoy. This is now twice in a row that I’ve actually enjoyed it and would have it again.
Chickpea Crepes (mushrooms, spinach, tomatoes, spring onions, micro greens, cashew cream sauce)Surprisingly (to me) good. Reading the description, it seemed to be just another of the seemingly countless variations on a universal theme. Maybe it was the nut sauce, I don’t know. But very enjoyable.
Pan-Roasted Half Chicken (cilantro- lime quinoa, grilled asparagus, agave jus)I have this nice pic of a nicely presented dish but I simply cannot recall tasting it. So I offer the picture until others can chime in.
Ancho-Chile Braised Short Rib (bacon & brie mashed potatoes, spring onions, sun-dried tomatoes, braising jus)Although the mashed potatoes were good (hard not to like mashed potatoes with bacon and brie), they were a little too rich and given the very heavy, rich flavor of the short rib—which was excellent—maybe not the best choice of to accompany. But then, I’m not the chef. For a more nuanced appreciation, I defer to the others. I do recall thinking it was a very good rendition, though.
Roast pork with gnocchiGood. The orderer professed himself quite happy with his choice. I guess the way I’d put it: I liked it, but not enough to order it on a repeat visit. (And, by the way, how much time would it have taken to actually melt the cheese?)
Lamb Tenderloin (spinach gnudi) Really enjoyable. This was a special that night and I found it excellent. The lamb was done almost perfectly (perhaps a shade on the underdone side) but the meat was top-notch and the sauce (which, sadly, I do not recall) was excellent as well. The spinach gnudi were, as the picture shows, overdone and dry. I think had they been taken off the fire at the right moment, they would have been a superb side. But what a pity to ruin such a terrific special with poorly executed gnudi.
Pistachio rum cakeThe consensus hit of the desserts. We had three and I don’t recall anyone at the table who didn’t like this one. Nothing fancy, nothing too complicated—just well-done, moist, and delicious.
Flourless chocolate cakeA good version if this is your preference.
Chocolate sformatoYes, it’s there, hiding under the (over-)generous shpritz of whipped cream (the real thing). The sformato was rich, had terrific flavor, and was positively lovely.
All in all, we’re not likely to return. That’s partly a function of location and partly a function of the food. A number of good things, but nothing so impressive that it beats too many options that are all far closer. Combined with the service issues and, for me, the server herself, I just can’t see returning. If we were ten minutes away, we’d probably give it another shot for convenience, but otherwise….
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)