cafe matou is one of my favorite chicago restaurants, and i had an outstanding experience there sunday night. for those who've never eaten here, let me say that the smallish dining room is beautiful and serene. even when full there is no problem hearing your dining companion's conversation. there is no 'scene' here, just consistently delicious french food and drink, with excellent service.
we started our meal with cocktails. my friend, visiting from new york, is a traditional martini kind of guy, but the bartender and i persuaded him to try one made with local north shore distillery's vodka. he was very impressed, and the next day bought a bottle to bring home with him. i asked the bartender for suggestions for a new drink; requesting he use templeton rye, he made me a Ward 8, which was a perfectly balanced drink consisting of rye, lemon and orange juice and a splash of grenadine. if i hadnt liked it, i wouldnt have blamed the bartender, but i give him full credit for the successful choice.
for dinner i had the house made charcuterie plate. that night it was an ethereally light slab of chicken liver pate and a coarse duck pate. both delicious. my friend's bowl of mussels was equally good, providing plenty of fragrant broth for sopping up with bread.
i was paying more attention to the conversation than the menu, so i confess to being a little vague about specifics of our meal.... my entree was grilled duck breast and leg in a merlot reduction. the meat was tender and rosy with a thin crispy layer of skin and fat surrounding each. one of the many things i love about this place is that the entrees come with starch and vegetable- in my case, melt in the mouth green cabbage and an amazing, crisp disk of pureed potato. my friend had the chicken with peppers and lots of garlic- something i'd find too boring to order, but it, too, was juicy and flavorful.
for dessert he had chocolate sorbet with strawberries and a crisp wafer, which was fine. but my warm rhubarb cake with dense, creamy, rhubarb ice cream was really memorable. the cake had the moistness and weight of a bread pudding, with crisp edges. a little drizzle of maple syrup surrounded it.
the service was unobtrusive and attentive- though i must admit i know our particular waiter that night through a mutual friend. but i've never had less than professional service on other visits.
cafe matou offers a quiet refuge from the city in gracious surroundings, with classic french food perfectly seasoned and cooked. you probably won't eat anything you've never heard of before, but you'll eat well. i had a duck breast sandwich for breakfast the next day, as the portions are very generous. justjoan
CAFE MATOU
1846 N. MILWAUKEE
773-384-8911