Good Gravy

I'm lazy and cooking for two Thanksgivings, so I refuse to make my own gravy, especially since the last time I tried I made a huge mess and snuffed out a pilot light all to end up with orange, lumpy crap. I don't mind the Heinz jarred stuff but last time I recall it being oversalted and gummy. Does anyone know of a good prepared gravy or one I can buy from a restaurant that is appropriate for poultry? Preferably out in this neck of the woods.

Thanks!

A good question. But if you are making a turkey I'd try to convince you to make your own gravy. Its easy, I do it all the time. I don't think any thing would be as good as a good home made gravy but a bad gravy can be very bad indeed. I'll love to know of any good gravy that can be bought in a store just for info purposes.

I'd echo toria--if you are making a turkey, the gravy need not be anything more complicated that the pan drippings de-glazed with stock or broth. If you like a thicker gravy, add a bit of flour (I usually make a slurry of mine so that it won't lump--stir the flour with a small amount of broth first to create a paste before you stir it into the pan--or use Wondra). You can add anything you like at that point--herbs (i like thyme and a little sage), a bit of white wine if you like that flavor, citrus--just depends on what your turkey prep is based on. My recipe calls for the gizzards and neck meat (I just boil or roast them, chop em up and put them into the gravy after the thickening step if I'm doing that). All would be infinitely better than anything you can buy prepared.

I don't have any special equipment...how do you defat the drippings?

I agree . . . make your own. It's really easy. If you tilt your pan, the fat will sit on the surface and you can spoon some of the fat away. I skim quite a bit away but leave a little.

Butter adds a little different flavor and can be added with the flour . . . but adjust the amount of oil you skim away. I usually make a light roux with butter and flour and add to the gravy (the roux can be done well in advance and refrigerated to save time). Also, I love a touch of wine, sometimes marsala but just a little, which adds another dimension to the gravy. And if you want a really smooth gravy, put in a blender or use an immersion blender.

Or to defat, you can pour the drippings into a pyrex measuring cup. The fat rises to the top and you can pour it off or spoon it off.

My trick is to use rickster's idea - but I use a turkey baster to slurp the drippings out from under the fat. More efficient/controllable.

Most efficient is to throw the drippings into the fridge or freezer and peel the fat off once it solidifies, but I never have time before thanksgiving dinner.

A friend of mine has raved about the make ahead gravy recipe she found on the New York Times site. I am hoping to do the same for our Thanksgiving, but am adding the challenge of trying to go gluten-free for the gravy. (I don't plan to stuff the bird, so it won't be tainted that way.) If anyone has any gravy tips for this novice gluten-free cook, I welcome them.

Pie Lady, sounds to me as though you've got enough Thanksgiving prep stress to manage without dealing with last-minute gravy-making from scratch. Not that completely from-scratch gravy might not be better, but it might not be so much better that it's worth making it another of the many things you'll have to do - and do right - at the last minute.

I suggest you make your life simpler by buying a jar of the Heinz turkey gravy (or depending on the quantity you need, two, or one turkey and one chicken), and augmenting it to improve the flavor.

By that I mean, once you've brought it up to a boil and lowered it to a simmer, add some drippings from the turkey roasting pan (or even easier, roast some chicken or turkey pieces a few days in advance) and then balance the sweet, salty, and sour to your taste by adding chicken broth, wine, vinegar, salt, sugar, etc., as well as pepper and herbs (sage, herbes de Provence, rosemary, thyme) to your taste. Maybe a little milk or half-and-half or cream at the end. My rule of thumb for sauces is to make sure there's not only water but also some oil (a little bit of fat from the pan wouldn't hurt and would in fact help the flavor) and some alcohol (in this case, white wine, sherry, or vermouth) in order to dissolve all three types of flavor components.

As suggested above, a simple way to get drippings without fat is to tilt the roasting pan and use a turkey baster to draw the drippings from the bottom of the pan, under the fat layer. Another simple option is to put the drippings in a bowl in the refrigerator or freezer for a few hours and spoon off the fat on the top once it's semi-solid.

Fat separators are useful, and not particularly expensive.

Forgot the de-fatting step--oops One of those things that you'd not forget when you were actually making the gravy, just when you're writing about it! I have one of those little plastic pitcher things that separates the fat out, usually leaving in just the right amount that I want to include in the final gravy. I transfer all of the liquid from the pan into the pitcher; in the remaining fat coating the pan, add in flour and use to scrape up bits and form a roux (may add back in some additional fat or butter if needed); finish de-glazing with rest of pan juices that I removed along with stock and wine if desired. Add in giblets if desired. I sometimes use the remaining fat to saute some onoins and mushrooms to add in to the gravy too. Mmmm...I'm ready for Thanksgiving!!

boudreaulicious wrote:Forgot the de-fatting step--oops One of those things that you'd not forget when you were actually making the gravy, just when you're writing about it! I have one of those little plastic pitcher things that separates the fat out, usually leaving in just the right amount that I want to include in the final gravy. I transfer all of the liquid from the pan into the pitcher; in the remaining fat coating the pan, add in flour and use to scrape up bits and form a roux (may add back in some additional fat or butter if needed); finish de-glazing with rest of pan juices that I removed along with stock and wine if desired. Add in giblets if desired. I sometimes use the remaining fat to saute some onoins and mushrooms to add in to the gravy too. Mmmm...I'm ready for Thanksgiving!!

Pretty much exactly what I do. When I put the turkey in the oven, I start a small pot with the turkey neck and giblets (all but the liver), an unpeeled onion stuck with a few cloves, a carrot, a few sprigs of parsley and thyme if I have it, a few peppercorns, and some salt in water to make some stock. Learned this from James Beard many years ago. If I need more liquid, I supplement this quick stock with the best I have--homemade chicken stock or made-ahead turkey stock (from necks, wings, etc.). Whatever you do, don't buy the canned turkey broth that appears once a year at the grocery store--it's horribly salty and yet tasteless. I've tried the make-ahead NYT turkey gravy and wasn't too crazy about it. I roast my turkey draped with bacon for the first few hours, and the gravy doesn't taste right to me without some of the smokiness of bacon fat in it from the pan drippings.

nr706 wrote:Fat separators are useful, and not particularly expensive.

True. I never bothered to get one until I picked up a nifty one with a plastic straining lid at the IC rummage sale for a dollar or so, only to find out later it was the model (Trudeau) recommended by Cooks Illustrated.

boudreaulicious wrote:I'd echo toria--if you are making a turkey, the gravy need not be anything more complicated that the pan drippings de-glazed with stock or broth. If you like a thicker gravy, add a bit of flour (I usually make a slurry of mine so that it won't lump--stir the flour with a small amount of broth first to create a paste before you stir it into the pan--or use Wondra). You can add anything you like at that point--herbs (i like thyme and a little sage), a bit of white wine if you like that flavor, citrus--just depends on what your turkey prep is based on. My recipe calls for the gizzards and neck meat (I just boil or roast them, chop em up and put them into the gravy after the thickening step if I'm doing that). All would be infinitely better than anything you can buy prepared.

Amen, B-licious!
Wine, lemon juice, herbs, salt, pepper, butter, done. Screw the whole flour, and roux thing. I don't get thick, gelatinous gravy. Never have, never will. Butter makes it the perfect consistency for me. And, oh yeah, it tastes much better than flour too.

seebee wrote:

boudreaulicious wrote:I'd echo toria--if you are making a turkey, the gravy need not be anything more complicated that the pan drippings de-glazed with stock or broth. If you like a thicker gravy, add a bit of flour (I usually make a slurry of mine so that it won't lump--stir the flour with a small amount of broth first to create a paste before you stir it into the pan--or use Wondra). You can add anything you like at that point--herbs (i like thyme and a little sage), a bit of white wine if you like that flavor, citrus--just depends on what your turkey prep is based on. My recipe calls for the gizzards and neck meat (I just boil or roast them, chop em up and put them into the gravy after the thickening step if I'm doing that). All would be infinitely better than anything you can buy prepared.

Amen, B-licious!
Wine, lemon juice, herbs, salt, pepper, butter, done. Screw the whole flour, and roux thing. I don't get thick, gelatinous gravy. Never have, never will. Butter makes it the perfect consistency for me. And, oh yeah, it tastes much better than flour too.

It's funny--sometimes I love the old school thicker version (almost like it's another side dish!) and other times I'm feeling more the pan juices, herb or citrus or wine focused type. Sometimes I make both Along with good stuffing, it happens to be my favorite part of the feast.

I have always owned that part of the meal prep regardless of whose table I'm dining at--i think I first took that responsiblity over from my mom in college and haven't relinquished it since. Regardless of which version, it has to have a flavor of something other than salt and flour or I won't eat it. And stuffing without excellent gravy is a travesty

boudreaulicious wrote: And stuffing without excellent gravy is a travesty

And you don't want the french fries you pick up the day after to sit there naked, do you?

Where do you get your fries?

In Evanston, we are good-fry heavy. I just look thru the GNRs for a nearby place that's open...(tho sometimes I wait until the next day after. I make a huge batch of gravy and quick-chill most of it for all the gravy-related leftover goodness.)

Mhays wrote:

boudreaulicious wrote: And stuffing without excellent gravy is a travesty

And you don't want the french fries you pick up the day after to sit there naked, do you?

for me, the day after is about piling as many leftovers onto a sandwich as possible and topping with gravy

Yeah, that's sounds like our house. Who has the energy to shower and dress to go out for fries (besides MHays, that is)? Often we don't even make it to the next morning...dinner is over by 5, which means Sequel Dinner starts around 10pm. And nobody makes a mayo and leftover turkey sandwich like Mr. Pie. I don't know why it's so fantastic, but it is. If I'm sentenced to the chair near Thanksgiving one day, which seems likely, I know what my last meal will be.

Hi,

Martha Stewart had a turkey gravy Erik M. pointed out some years ago as taking some serious time and effort. The results were fabulous, though it did begin by roasting turkey parts in advance. Unfortunately I cannot any link to it. All the easy to access MS gravy recipes are considerably simplified.

Why not make the gravy this weekend and freeze it?

You can roast turkey wings (or legs or thighs) to get the important drippings, then make a gravy. I would put the turkey on a rack with chopped carrots, onions and celery underneath.

If you don't feel like eating those roast turkey parts, then put them on the stove to make broth for your gravy. While your stock is cooking, you can put those pan dripping in the fridge for the fat to cool and solidify to pull off easily. Don't be too quick in tossing the fat, you may want it to create a roux.

I puree the roasted vegetables with the broth and defatted drippings, then consider thickening. If I am lucky, the pureed vegetables add just enough thickening to get the job done.

Regards,

I just noticed that Serious Eats did a review of prepared gravy , perhaps this will be helpful.

Call any caterer or any local restaurant or grocery that is advertising Thanksgiving dinner to go and they will be happy to sell you as much turkey gravy as you need.

seebee wrote:Screw the whole flour, and roux thing. I don't get thick, gelatinous gravy. Never have, never will. Butter makes it the perfect consistency for me. And, oh yeah, it tastes much better than flour too.

Different tastes and preferences for different folks I guess. I always add flour and make a roux - not to the point where it's the least bit gelatinous or really thick . . . just thicker. Just me, but I hate gravy that's so thin that it all just pours right off the turkey. And as the cook, you're in charge of the thickness and how much flour you choose to add. Personally, I like my gravy to be about as thick as a gumbo (which also contains roux, although typically a much darker roux). And I've never found that the roux negatively affects or masks the flavor of the gravy in any way. But the key is definitely cooking the flour. Otherwise, you will taste the raw flour and that's not good.

I did notice today that Trader Joes is selling turkey gravy. But here is my advice on how to make it. I take the neck and giblets and put in the bottom of the turkey roasting pan and roast along with the turkey. The turkey is on a rack. Do use a proper pan, not the foil things. I also have some chopped onions, and celery in the pan for flavor as well as fresh sage and thyme and rosemary. I put more in the turkey cavity which is not stuffed. I make that separate. I don't do much to the turkey itself. I might baste with a little butter and sprinkle with a tad of paprika for browning purposes. I mention all of these things as I believe they contribute to the taste of the gravy.

After all is done and the turkey is removed, I remove the other turkey part and vegetables and set a side (We don't eat them or add to gravy). I add some water to the pan and deglaze (scrap up the brown bits, etc). Then I pour all into a large saucepan. At this point some chicken broth can be added. (if you may need more liquid for some reason-I made a turkey breast on the weekend and did not need this) (check for needed salt and pepper too)

I mix up a about a quarter of a cup or so of corn starch with cold water. Get the pan contents to a bubbling and add the water and cornstarch mixture and cook until it has thickened. I strain in a large strainer because I like very smooth gravy. I strain into the gravy boat I will serve this in.

I find gravy making is part art, part science. I think flour will make a thicker opaque gravy and cornstarch will make one that is a little thinner. I think its neat to make your own gravy as it is so much better than anything you can buy. P.S. I do not want citrus or wine in my turkey gravy. I only want flavors of onion, celery and the turkey "herbs".

toria wrote: I find gravy making is part art, part science. I think flour will make a thicker opaque gravy and cornstarch will make one that is a little thinner.

Partially true. Flour opaque, yes. Cornstarch thinner - no. Light application of roux to large amount of stock = thin opaque sauce. Too heavy a cornstarch slurry added to same stock = thick, gloppy and shiny.

I prefer the taste of a traditional butter roux, although a roux made with turkey or chicken fat is might tasty also. I always mount the finished gravy with whole butter. Too much butter is just enough!

I also don't recall any discussion of adding chopped giblets to the gravy, which is my preference. At the club where I work, I plan on offering giblet as well as the plain turkey type of gravies.

EvA wrote:Pretty much exactly what I do. When I put the turkey in the oven, I start a small pot with the turkey neck and giblets (all but the liver), an unpeeled onion stuck with a few cloves, a carrot, a few sprigs of parsley and thyme if I have it, a few peppercorns, and some salt in water to make some stock. Learned this from James Beard many years ago. If I need more liquid, I supplement this quick stock with the best I have--homemade chicken stock or made-ahead turkey stock (from necks, wings, etc.). Whatever you do, don't buy the canned turkey broth that appears once a year at the grocery store--it's horribly salty and yet tasteless. I've tried the make-ahead NYT turkey gravy and wasn't too crazy about it. I roast my turkey draped with bacon for the first few hours, and the gravy doesn't taste right to me without some of the smokiness of bacon fat in it from the pan drippings.

I have to second this approach although I have not advanced to the cloves and the bacon level, I have used the neck and giblets plus onions, etc. to make my stock every year I am tasked with making the turkey. In one crazy beer-drenched (when single) holiday, the pan drippings were seriously compromised by a well meaning but incompetent "soused chef" and I just made my gravy out of the stock with some flour to thicken. Ended up pretty nice. Every other year, I use the baster to gather the drippings under the fat and add it to the stock. For me, the neck and gizzards come out before the thickening because when cooking for a crowd, most people are used to gravy and just gravy and no other objects in the gravy.

Overall, I think the consensus is to give it a try. I do not consider myself an expert chef by any means but once you get this down, you will do it without thought year after year. Just be careful with the thickener per advice given in earlier posts.

One more thing to note is that if you brine your turkey, be real careful when it comes to using the drippings. They're likely to be very salty and you will almost definitely need to add enough stock (sodium-free) to ensure that the gravy is not too salty.

I wasn't going to brine, but I do have a question about that -
I was planning on cleaning and rubbing the turkey with spices on Wednesday and leaving it covered in the fridge until Friday. Is that considered brining or is it known as something else? Plus, where do you get brining bags big enough for a giant turkey? I don't want to just cover it with foil.

Pie Lady wrote: Plus, where do you get brining bags big enough for a giant turkey? I don't want to just cover it with foil.

I believe Bed Bath & Beyond/Linen & Things carries them.