In and out in 14 hours a few weeks ago, I had food from four places, three of which were not of my choosing, and all of which were quite enjoyable.
I hadn't run into a
Pain Quotidien (mentioned upthread) before, and had an open-faced sandwich of warm fresh wheat bread with ricotta cheese spread, fresh figs, honey, and coarsely ground black pepper, and a cup of black tea. Clean, conversation-friendly, pleasing design, pretty much what Panera could be with an education.
Stop two after a successful meeting was
Keur Sokhna in Harlem, and this was a find. A couple from Senegal runs this Muslim West African restaurant with very fresh fish, lamb, chicken, and produce, hand-ground peanut butter and scratch soups. A whole tilapia arrived crisp and steamy with a bed of millet couscous, fried onions, and funky greens; chicken brochettes were grilled over coals and richly seasoned with mustard seed and lemon, and lamb dibi (similar to Ethiopian tibs) pieces tugged merrily off the bone. Our hosts said that this place turns over more food than most similar spots due to catering orders and is therefore more consistently trustable. Perhaps even better than the food was the unlabeled, homebrewed bissap, ginger, and bouye drinks, made from sorrel, ginger, and baobab, respectively, each tremendously strong and digestive.
2249 Adam Clayton Powell Jr Blvd, between 132nd and 133rd
http://www.keursokhnaplus.comDinner was at
Savann, which has been around for a while, and is one of many totally non-Mediterranean places in NYC and elsewhere labeling itself as "Mediterranean," either to counter xenophobia or embrace American ignorance; these folks are Central Asian cooking mostly American bistro food. The mezes would be perfectly at home in the Caucasus - delicate eggplant-wrapped salads, chunky hummus, beets, house pickles - and then you have a cheeseburger, crisp-roasted whole Amish chicken, or soupy lamb shank. The room is quiet and intimate, but the place was dead other than us for several hours at primetime and the service was clingy to a fault. Still, recommendable.
414 Amsterdam Avenue
http://www.savann.comMy pick (a perennial stop) was
H&H Bagels on Broadway at 80th. Salt and everything were up hot and I was in contact high heaven the minute we crossed the lintel. Two dozen significantly upgraded the coach cabin perfume on the way home and placated expectant wife and office-mates the next day. If Kenny is reading, I resisted the urge to toast the fresh (but may run some of the frozen ones through the toaster oven).