As much as I have always really enjoyed chef Heather Terhune's food (Atwood Cafe, various charity events), bartender Mike Ryan -- and his extraordinary collection of spirts and original cocktails -- might be the stars of the show at Sable Kitchen & Bar. The expansive shelves behind the bar are filled with premium spirits and the impressive cocktail menu reads like a piece of literature, though it's not nearly as long. It's organized into 13 sections, each one headed up with a clever bit of prose which lays out the theme of the section. Together, the sections form a loose, running narrative, beginning with
Bubbly (sparkling wine-based cocktails) and ending with
Your First Crush (wines by the glass). In between, 'chapters' like
An Auspicious Occasion,
Conquer the World,
The Perfect Date and
Trust Me list all sorts of intriguing, original libations. In addition to the custom creations, many classics are offered and it's very clear that a great deal of detailed attention is paid to these drinks, as well. It took no more than a few moments sitting at Sable's bar to understand that this is a top-tier bartender and a top-tier bar. It's unmistakably the real deal from beginning to end. And I don't think it's any secret. Our visit was on a snowy Monday night and by 6:30, the bar area was pretty much full with happy imbibers.
Mike Ryan shakes a cocktail in front of his awesome wall o' spiritsOur party of 4 had
a lot of cocktails. On this night, I stuck to the darker sprits. Mike started me out with a spicy, tart and balanced bourbon-based
Hot Toddy. Over the next 4.5 hours, I ordered a
Chuck Yeager (Smith & Cross, El Dorado 12-year, yellow Chartreuse, cinnamon bark syrup, fresh lime, Angostura), a
Gravity Storm (Laird's Applejack, cranberry-infused maple syrup, Carpano Antica, fresh lemon, Fee's Old Fashioned bitters), The
Birthright (Old Heaven Hill Bottled in Bond, house-made fig-garam masala syrup, fresh lemon, Angostura), a
Fedora Cocktail (Buffalo Trace, housemade grenadine, fresh thyme, fresh lemon), a
Cloak & Dagger (Rittenhouse Bottled in Bond, Carpano Antica, Cruzan Blackstrap, Laphroaig Quarter Cask, Greg's Physical bitters) and a
Globetrotter (Banks rum, housemade grenadine, fresh lemon, Angostura). These were all sensational, as were several other gin-based cocktails that I tasted along the way.
After a couple hours at the bar, we headed back to the dining room and had some dinner. But first, one more drink . . .
Globetrotter CocktailThe food menu is divided into 5 sections: Hors d'Oeuvres, Fish, Meat, Farm & Garden and Brick Oven Flatbreads. The four of us ordered 3 rounds of dishes, for a total of 12. Most dishes are available in half and full portions. I thought that many of the dishes we ordered were oustanding. Here are a few pics, though I was somewhat inebriated and they're not of the greatest quality . . .
Deviled Eggs with truffle oil and black trumpet mushrooms
Rock Shrimp-Corn Fritters with chili dipping sauce
Crispy Pork Belly BLT's
Corned Beef Reuben Strudel with thousand island dressing
The open kitchen at Sable, which runs along the length of the dining room
Duck Fat fingerling potatoes with foie gras butter and sea salt
Cauliflower Gratin with taleggio cheese and white truffle oil
Bison Short Rib Sliders with root beer glaze
Smoked Black Cod with pumpernickel croutons and horseradish-dill cream
Buttermilk Fried Chicken Drumettes with spicy ranch sauce
Wisconsin Fried Cheese Curds with spicy ketchup glaze
Crispy Red Lentil Cake with cocount curry broth, peanuts and zucchini salad
Flatbread: Spicy housemade lamb sausage with pecorino romano, arugula and mint pestoAcross the board, I thought that conception and execution of the dishes was very high. We'd had a lot to drink and as such, I think some details were lost on me. The potatoes were perfectly cooked but I wasn't tuned in enough to pick up the foie gras butter. That said, they still tasted great and had a satisfyingly crispy texture. Some of the other, boldly-flavored dishes we had made for quintessential bar fare. The fatty and tender short rib sliders were totally compelling and the pork belly sliders were crispy on the edges and unctuous throughout. I also loved the cauliflower gratin -- it's my second favorite veggie -- and this was an intensely flavorful preparation. The corned beef reuben strudel was perfection in a roll and even though I hit a wall and was too full to do more than try it, the crispy red lentil cake was delicious. I also really loved the smoked black cod. It was moist and supple, and carried a sweet smoke, which was a perfect accent for the fish. The addition of the crispy skin garnish was a very nice touch. But why oh why is this fish, which is also known as sable, simply referred to a black cod on the menu at Sable? This should be their namesake dish!

Desserts looked tempting but we were too full and knew that ordering anything else would be ill-advised.
A few days after this initial visit, I found myself back in the neighborhood and stopped in with a group of 6 for a couple rounds of after-lunch drinks (gotta love the holiday season!

). On this occasion, Mr. Ryan was not in the house but Nate, who was tending the bar, took equally great care of us. The cocktails and service were stellar and I ordered a couple of bourbons that I really liked: a Johnny Drum 12-year (which I'd never tried before) and a barrel-select bottling of Evan Williams that was chosen by Mike Ryan himself and bottled exclusively for Sable (which Mike let me taste during the first visit). The spirit list at Sable is lengthy and impressive. I could spend a lot of time working my way through it and the cocktail menu and the food menu . . . and I plan to do just that.

=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain