Cafe Iberico Spanish 'Style' Ham

LTH,

I've been reading Pig Perfect , a "sprawling love letter to hogdom" in which Peter Kaminsky waxes poetic about, among other types of piggy, ham made from patra negra, or black-foot pig, of Spain. As I'm reading the lure of jamon iberico is incredibly strong. I've had the pleasure of eating this delicacy in Spain, the pigs graze on acorns and the flavor is incredible. But, for reasons not completely understood, at least by me, serrano is imported into the U.S. but not iberico.

About as close as I was going to get, at least on impulse, was a fino sherry, plate of serrano and a chunk or three of manchego cheese at Cafe Iberico. As I pull up to Iberico, the restaurant, not the ham, it dawns on me it's been years since I was last there. Nothing's changed, same long double bar, couple of big rooms, deli, cheese area in back. Nice, I'd have hated it if Iberico had gone with a Surfs-up theme and current Spanish pop stars adoring the walls. Though MTV Spain was playing on the flat screen above the bar.

I sipped a Manzanilla while reading the menu and was immediately struck by the description for Jamon Iberico under the Cold Tapas section. "Spanish style cured ham with Spanish cheese and tomato bread" Spanish style? When asked the friendly, knowledgeable bartender, I ate at the bar, was quite up-front that this particular ham was from California, not Spain. OK, fine, but how did it taste, lots of great ham, cheese, wine etc. is made in California. When he started to describe compressed ham cut on a slicer I interrupted and inquired as to Spanish ham.

My plate of Spanish serrano was served with too cold manchego, a couple of olives and tomato bread. The tomato bread was odd, not so much for the industrial tomatoes, but more for the incredible toughness of the bread. The bread was impossible to cut with a fork and still difficult with a knife.

Might sound as if I was dissatisfied, no, not in the least, the serrano was quite good, as was the cheese, once it warmed up, the Fino I had with lunch was a perfect compliment and the bartenders recommendation of Pulpo a la Planch, grilled Octopus with potatoes and olive oil, was terrific. Nicely grilled octopus served on a wooden plate with french fries, squeeze of lemon juice and I was in business.

All in all a very nice lunch, though I have to wonder how many unsuspecting customers order Spanish style cured ham thinking it's actual jamon from Spain.

Enjoy,
Gary

Cafe Iberico
739 N La Salle
Chicago, IL 60610
312-573-1510

I'm a bit confused as to what happened.

I sipped a Manzanilla while reading the menu and was immediately struck by the description for Jamon Iberico under the Cold Tapas section. "Spanish style cured ham with Spanish cheese and tomato bread" Spanish style? When asked the friendly, knowledgeable bartender, I ate at the bar, was quite up-front that this particular ham was from California, not Spain. OK, fine, but how did it taste, lots of great ham, cheese, wine etc. is made in California. When he started to describe compressed ham cut on a slicer I interrupted and inquired as to Spanish ham.

Are the serving two hams, a California that is compressed and cut on a slicer and a Spainish ham?

Vital Information wrote:Are the serving two hams, a California that is compressed and cut on a slicer and a Spanish ham?

Rob,

They have Spanish serrano in the deli, which is what was used, after I specifically asked, on my lunch order. The bartender said the Spanish serrano is hand sliced off the cured leg, as opposed to machine sliced. I should point out that I did not specifically view this in action, but have no reason to doubt the bartenders veracity.

Specifically in answer to your question, yes, they have more than one type of Spanish ham available. According to their take out menu, both boneless and bone-in serrano from Spain, Spanish Style from California and, most likely, other types as well.

Enjoy,
Gary

This link has pretty much anything you could ever want to know about jamón ibérico.

From Departures -

Because no Spanish slaughterhouses conform to U.S. Department of Agriculture regulations, jamón ibérico is unavailable in the States. (Outside Spain, the ham is for sale in many of Europe's best food shops; see "Where to Find It.") Jamón serrano can be imported and sold here if the pigs have been butchered in Holland or Denmark before the hams are cured in Spain. Jamón ibérico de bellota, though, must be produced entirely in Spain: The ibérico pig and the dehesa's acorns are essential to its unique flavor.

I've been wanting to try jamón ibérico ever since reading about it a couple years ago, and the "Decoding Adria Ferra" documentary only made me want to try it even more. Which I suppose I'll only need to hit Spain or wait two years to try it.

The good news is that COVAP, a cooperative of 10,000 farmers in Córdoba, has built a new slaughterhouse in the town of Pozoblanco, designed to gain the USDA's approval. Donald B. Harris, the owner of the Virginia-based La Tienda import firm, has toured the plant and plans to bring COVAP's ibérico products into the United States. First will come the sausages (chorizo, salsichón, lomo) that are made from other parts of the pig and demand less time to cure—they may be obtainable by early 2006. Harris hopes the first ibérico hams will arrive in 2007.

Also, if you -really- want to make sure you're among the first to get an imported ibérico, you can pre-order here for the low, low price of a $200 deposit. (The full ham will be > $600.)

Hope that helps.

Pete wrote:This link has pretty much anything you could ever want to know about jamón ibérico.

I've been wanting to try jamón ibérico ever since reading about it a couple years ago, and the "Decoding Adria Ferra" documentary only made me want to try it even more. Which I suppose I'll only need to hit Spain or wait two years to try it.

Also, if you -really- want to make sure you're among the first to get an imported ibérico, you can pre-order here for the low, low price of a $200 deposit. (The full ham will be > $600.)

Pete,

Interesting link, thanks. I saw Decoding Adria Ferra as well, which was also rattling around in my mind as I read Pig Perfect. The Iberico slicing scene, and Tony B's reaction to the taste, should have an R rating.

I have a cryovaced shank of pata negra from Salamanca my niece brought me from Spain. Much to my shame, I have waited so long for the perfect opportunity to eat the Iberico jamon I'm afraid it is no longer good.

Jamon Iberico


Enjoy,
Gary

Does everyone have a favorite Chicago restaurant, Gary?
Though many find Cafe Iberico only tolerable, I find, when discussing favorite restaurants in Chicago, Cafe Iberico is my #1 restaurant.

First, it is consistent.

Second, my good friend who was in Spain for two years for University making Sangria in bathtubs, also finds it her favorite. So, I like to go with her.

Second, quality vs. cost factor rings high in my public school teacher brain, because for $25 + tip Mr. Food Nut and I can chow happily on Friday afternoons after a long week with great variety plus enjoy an entire pitcher of Sangria.

Third, the deli. For all the years I've been going to Iberico, 10+ now, only recently have I carried out from the deli. I can't imagine attempting Tortilla Espanola at home....too labor intensive. Iberico's deli version is sliced from an entire cake of it....very fresh, and delicious.

As for the tomato bread. It must soak for some time before eating in my opinion. However, I prefer the bread untoasted from the table basket soaked in the very smooth, fruity olive oil.

I nearly died when my mom, when I brought her to Iberico, asked for parmesan cheese with her bread.

I've pretty much eaten there with everyone I know....and they've all liked it.

I've enjoyed the Jamon Iberico plate at Cafe Iberico, without requesting the serrano.
The ham is quite chewy, though.

I go to Cafe Iberico often because it's fun, fresh, and tasty. They're doing something right... Something was written about Iberico ham lately in the paper or somewhere....

G Wiv wrote:I have a cryovaced shank of pata negra from Salamanca my niece brought me from Spain.

Consider yourself (or your niece) lucky. I brought back several nice, sealed pieces of jamon serrano from Madrid several years ago. Back in the U.S. while waiting for my luggage, a customs agent's beagle smelled the food in my backpack. As the ham did not meet the USDA guidelines, it was seized.

I just wish I knew that before I spent the cash on the ham!


Tim

Food Nut wrote:Does everyone have a favorite Chicago restaurant, Gary?

Why yes, I have a favorite restaurant. 'Little' Three Happiness, the restaurant after which LTHForum is named.

This is quite an interesting question, what are peoples favorite restaurants?

Food Nut wrote:
Though many find Cafe Iberico only tolerable, I find, when discussing favorite restaurants in Chicago, Cafe Iberico is my #1 restaurant.

I enjoyed my lunch at Cafe Iberico and did not mean to convey different.

Enjoy,
Gary

"I can't imagine attempting Tortilla Espanola at home....too labor intensive."

It's like falling off a log. You should try it sometime. I've said it before, but the real sleeper at Tango Sur is the personal pan tortilla. Probably the best in town, though Iberico's is very good too. Be warned, the TS version is served hot, which is a bit unorthodox.

G Wiv wrote:All in all a very nice lunch, though I have to wonder how many unsuspecting customers order Spanish style cured ham thinking it's actual jamon from Spain.

Well, I wasn't as careful as you my last visit to Cafe Iberico (two Fridays ago). We went with out of town guests for a late (~11pm) dinner. Prior to this visit, I'd have to agree with Food Nut -- we've always had great, value-packed meals at Iberico, but its reputation took a hit for us this last visit.

I'm guessing the relatively late hour may have had something to do with it, but the food was so-so. For one, the Spanish-ish ham was pretty poor and flavorless. And while I was hoping and expecting the tomato bread to be the Catalan delight that Antonius had previously described, what came to the table was overtoasted bread with a mush of mealy tomatoes on top. As for the rest of the meal, I'll say that while no other dish was poor, there was nothing to get excited about.

Again, I think Cafe Iberico usually does one of (if not the) best renditions of tapas in the city. I'm just hoping this last visit was an anomalous clunker.

Zee

"I can't imagine attempting Tortilla Espanola at home....too labor intensive."

JeffB wrote:It's like falling off a log. You should try it sometime

Hmm...I guess it falls into my five ingredient or less rule.

Perhaps I don't make many dishes because they are easy to get, tasty, cheap and oh-so close to home.

This would be the #1 reason I stay in this, my native city: mucho gusto chow.

I was at Iberico last night....quite delicious.

Five ingredients for a tortilla espanola:

Potatoes
Onions
Olive oil
Salt
Eggs

Give it a whirl, it ain't rocket science.

Hi

I want to serve Spanish Ham of some sort at a party for hubby's work without breaking the bank, and without it tasting like American ham Is my best bet mail order from Tienda, or purchasing local at somewhere like Cheese Stands Alone, Iberico, etc.

Thanks in advance,

Cheese Stands Alone is currently carrying a remarkable Serrano ham from Spain (is that redundant? I'm not sure). I highly recommend it. The closest I've come to what I tried in Barcelona.

Interesting you say that. I just had a peanut-fed Virginia country ham, and it tasted more like a Spanish ham than just about any ham I've tasted other than Spanish ham. It cost a buck seventy a pound, which is something like on one-tenth the price of a good European ham.

But it was American, so it's no help, I guess.

Sounds like a good bargain! The jamon serrano at Cheese Stands Alone goes for something like $21/lb. I'm not complaining though.

JeffB wrote:Interesting you say that. I just had a peanut-fed Virginia country ham, and it tasted more like a Spanish ham than just about any ham I've tasted other than Spanish ham. It cost a buck seventy a pound, which is something like on one-tenth the price of a good European ham.

But it was American, so it's no help, I guess.

Where did you get it? If it's good I'm willing to try it. Most of the Virginia hams I have had weren't at all similar to Spanish ham. The texture was completely different. I love Surrey (Surry?) ham, but can live a life complete without a Smithfield in my life

JeffB wrote:Interesting you say that. I just had a peanut-fed Virginia country ham,

Jeff,

Love to know where you got ham from a peanut fed porker.

Enjoy,
Gary

Well, my ham tasted like Spanish ham and had a similar texture -- before I cooked it for 6 hours over hardwoods. Now it is rather different, but still damn good. (The ham started out salt and pepper cured, no smoke, no sugar, no nothing else (unless you count the glorious mold that I scrubbed off with boiling water)).

I have to admit this was all kind of a tease, since I purchased the ham at a grocery store/shack in the middle of Virginia near Charlottesville. The folks said it was peanut fed, but who the hell knows for sure.

All in all, a nice buy. I would have bought more if I could have packed them into my overstuffed truck.

Ditto on Cheese Stands Alone.

Also my girlfriend found jamon serrano at Eatzi's.

Genuine jamon serrano seems to be an elusive item around Chicago. Had dinner at Sol y Nieve (an Emilio's place) last night and the bartender said they often have to ration it out because the supply is spotty. They sometimes have to go a month between deliveries. They may stop serving the serrano & manchego plate and save the jamon for dishes on the specials list.

And speaking of Sol y Nieve, can highly recommend it. Great sherry selection, bartender was very generous about pouring samples of the fino's and manzanilla's before trying a different one. We had olives, potato salad, serrano & asparagus, goat cheese & tomato sauce, and stuffed mushrooms. The 5 tapas was more than enough food for two people, and everything was delicious. With 3 sherries apiece it came out to $70 total including tip, not bad at all for downtown Chicago and the service in the bar was great. Nice warm cozy woody room in the winter when the nieve is blowing. Was my first time at this Emilio's location, and will definitely be going back.

Sol y Nieve
215 E Ohio St.
Chicago, 60611
(312) 467-7177

They have it at Sam's and F&O, every time I have been.

Hi guys,

I live in Barcelona, Spain, so for me and the rest of Europeans it is quite easy to get high quality cured ham. The best ham is obtained from iberian pigs which are feeded only with acorns and wild grass, and cured in the high mountains (Sierra) after its sacrifice.

The production is limited to 1 to 2 milion hams per year, I think, due to these special conditions. This is a very small percentage of the whole quantity of hams produced.

Lately, some countries, such as the USA, Japan and Australia, are enabling iberian ham imports, and Spanish people are afraid for the rise of its price. But for you, the americans, these are good news. In fact, one of the most well-known online shops, IberGour, is translating its website to english and closing agreements with worldwide couriers, as one of its partners told me recently.

Ramón

I searched for a thread covering this recent news on Iberico ham coming to the U.S., but I couldn't find mention. Embutidos Fermin is the first slaughterhouse in Spain to get USDA approval for exporting Iberian products to the U.S.

Press release from the Fancy Food Show

If this has already been covered, my apologies.