iblock9 wrote:Streetcars run 24 hours but they can be infrequent and you might have to wait. If you are planning on walking from Commanders to the streetcar after dinner I would reconsider if you are alone. I am not trying to be an alarmist and you would probably be alright, but I would never wander around that part of the Garden District by myself.

As for your question about a white dinner jacket being over the top, in New Orleans the answer is a definite no. Not necessary but you wouldnt get a second look.

thanks,

I will be solo and might just opt for a cab back to the hotel/French Quarter for some drinks after the Commanders dinner.

I might also roll with an ivory dinner jacket just for fun.

jimswside wrote:I might also roll with an ivory dinner jacket just for fun.

Pair it with a flamboyant bow tie and you'll have the perfect Southern Gentleman look.

stevez wrote:

jimswside wrote:I might also roll with an ivory dinner jacket just for fun.

Pair it with a flamboyant bow tie and you'll have the perfect Southern Gentleman look.

thats what im shooting for.

Do take your family on the St Charles street car during the day, it's a great way to see all the old mansions and I bet your daughter would get a kick out of it. There is quite a lot within a block or two of the line and I think you can get a day pass so you don't have to pay if you get on and off several times.

I like stevez's suggestion!

LikestoEatout wrote:Do take your family on the St Charles street car during the day, it's a great way to see all the old mansions and I bet your daughter would get a kick out of it. There is quite a lot within a block or two of the line and I think you can get a day pass so you don't have to pay if you get on and off several times.

I like stevez's suggestion!

We plan on getting a few day pass they offer, hoping to use the street cars as the main transportation. Sunday we are going to take the St. Charles line up to the Carrolton area for lunch, the football games, and maybe dinner.

jimswside wrote:

LikestoEatout wrote:Do take your family on the St Charles street car during the day, it's a great way to see all the old mansions and I bet your daughter would get a kick out of it. There is quite a lot within a block or two of the line and I think you can get a day pass so you don't have to pay if you get on and off several times.

I like stevez's suggestion!

We plan on getting a few day pass they offer, hoping to use the street cars as the main transportation. Sunday we are going to take the St. Charles line up to the Carrolton area for lunch, the football games, and maybe dinner.

You might want to have a backup plan in mind - during peak periods, things gets extremely crowded at the Canal St end.

On Saturday around 11am, we hoped to take the St Charles line from the first stop after Canal over to Cooter Brown's on Carrollton, but when we got to the stop we found literally 60-70 people lined up at the stop. As each group of 2-3 got on, they asked the conductor how much the fare was, does this line go to the Garden District, does it stop at [insert street name here], etc. We thought we'd be clever and duck into a bar for a quick beer to wait out the line...when we came out of the bar, the same streetcar was still standing there, with 15-20 people still waiting to get on.

Cab fare from Canal to Carrollton was about $15.

Khaopaat wrote:You might want to have a backup plan in mind - during peak periods, things gets extremely crowded at the Canal St end.

On Saturday around 11am, we hoped to take the St Charles line from the first stop after Canal over to Cooter Brown's on Carrollton, but when we got to the stop we found literally 60-70 people lined up at the stop. As each group of 2-3 got on, they asked the conductor how much the fare was, does this line go to the Garden District, does it stop at [insert street name here], etc. We thought we'd be clever and duck into a bar for a quick beer to wait out the line...when we came out of the bar, the same streetcar was still standing there, with 15-20 people still waiting to get on.

Cab fare from Canal to Carrollton was about $15.

thanks for the heads up. great info.

A long oyster-off lunch in New Orleans this past weekend:

We got a dozen on the half shell at five different places, working our way from the French Quarter through Uptown to the Garden District and back:

at Felix's:


A lunch counter-type operation with a shucker. You can also stand right in front of the shucker at the counter and eat them as soon as he puts them on the plate. This was our overall #4, in a virtual dead heat with the Acme Oyster house (below); the good thing about Felix's is that they often don't have a line whereas Acme seems to pride themselves on theirs. A dozen was in the $10-11 range.

at The Pearl:


A diner at the head of the St. Charles streetcar line. Not an oyster bar at all, although it's prominently displayed on their sign. Half-shell oysters were not on their menu, although featured on the chalkboard, and were shucked in the kitchen behind closed doors. A far distant #5; oysters were mealy and had no taste of fresh brine. Also the most expensive of the bunch, at $15.

at Cooter Brown's:


A college dive beer bar with an impressive draft and bottle selection in the Garden district. The shucker arranges your oysters on a black plastic cafeteria-type tray and gives you an extra for lagniappe. You make your own condiment from the supplies provided next to the counter. A strong contender at #2. I didn't pay for this round, but it was in the $10-11 neighborhood again, I believe. The shucker was morose over the weather - he said he just can't stand winter, it feels like he has no energy. It was 63 degrees and sunny that day.

at Luke:


For happy hour - everyday from 3-6 PM - this was easily the best deal of the bunch. A strong #1, great briny taste, classic presentation on ice bed. A dozen was $6 at happy hour, which was at least half-off. The bartender was a bit surly when we asked him about the happy hour deal, and it didn't appear to be advertised anywhere, but he gave it to us. The shucker was obviously a back-up guy who struggled to turn the plates out at the brisk clip that the orders came in - we might have jumped ahead of some other orders by sitting right next to the guy with drooling eyes. Still, even with the wait and the surliness, it was worth it.

at Acme:


The twin of Felix's (above), although they do more volume and thus the oysters might have been a tiny bit fresher. A little bit more of a touristy happy-go-lucky kind of place. #3 and in the same $10-11 ballpark.

I actually got a little oystered out, which I thought was not possible, and so was not able to repeat the experiment the next day at Casamento's et al, sadly.

jimswside wrote:my list has been kind of fluid(so i have pulled it back a couple times to edit/change, sorry), so here are the final dinner choices & some lunch choices:

I have done alot of reading, and talking with folks in NOLA, folks who have lived there, or knowledgeable people who just love the place, and I think we have come up with a pretty solid list of dinner choices and options for lunches and snacks. I am guessing about $2,000 in pocket money will cover this week of meals, and excess. i dont know when I have looked forward to a vacation as much as this one, family time is priceless, especially in light of recent personal developments.

How we will roll:

Saturday:
L: Felix, Acme or Mothers
D: Cochon
Sunday:
L: Cooter Browns
D: La Cote Brassiere (might switch this to Dante's which is in Uptown by Cooter Browns)
Monday:
L:
D: Commanders Palace - a solo dinner and the chefs menu for me
Tuesday:
L:
D: Boucherie
Wednesday:
L: Commanders Palace - gotta let the wife and shay expereince Commanders
D: Luke
thursday:
L: K-Paul
D: Lilette
Friday:
L:
D: Galatoire's
Saturday:
L:

Dinners were my main focus, so I got those reservations first, I also got the lunch reservation @ Commanders.

Open Lunch and snack choices will consist of: Acme, Felix, Cassamento's, Mr. B's, Central Grocery, Johnnies, Mahoney's, Mothers, Drago's, Cochon Butcher, Dante's, Cafe Dumonde, Herbsaint, Domenica,Parkway, Bourbon House,Cowbell, etc.

thanks for the folks who helped & gave me feedback on places. I will try to get most of my pics and comments up on LTH, otherwise they will be on Grubseeker for sure.

A couple quick questions if anyone can help:

- my Commanders reservation is for 8:00 p.m. on Monday, I am trying to find out how late the street cars run on a week night(I am having a hard time reading their online schedule).

- Also for dinner @ Galatoire's and Commanders I need to wear a jacket. Is an Ivory dinner jacket over the top, and is a standard sports coat to casual?

Thanks for any help with these questions.

Dantes has a great brunch, might consider that for Sunday. Casamentos must be on the list. Also look at Irenes, La Petit Grocery, and Bacco in the W Hotel. It might not be there any more as I heard it is moving. K Paul is not what it once awas and seems to have erratic hours, I have not made it there the last two visits, Hope it is as good as it was.

If you have a chance check out the music at Donna's. Lot of brass jazz. The BBQ oysters at RedFish grill were pretty darn good, great snack and beer stop, the rest of the food is good there also but you gotta try the oysters. I did not care for Felix all that much, maybe I wanted to go there so bad, for so long that it didn't live up to my minds expectation.

I stayed a few nights in the area around Commanders palace and did not feel unsafe walking. As long as you go towards St Charles you should have no problem. Like others said the street cars while nice are unpredictable as far as time. I walked from the French quarter 1/2 way to Tulane more than once and never saw a car, then three will be riding all in a row. They can be frustrating if you are in a hurry or tired. Also catching a cab on the street in the garden dist can be almost as hard as the street car, so if you have your doubts call a cab.

2146 north wrote:Also catching a cab on the street in the garden dist can be almost as hard as the street car, so if you have your doubts call a cab.

Commander's will be more than happy to arrange a cab or limo to pick you up when you are finished dining. In fact, when you are ready, just let the Captain know. You can relax at your table while you are waiting and they will come and get you when your transportation has arrived.

stevez wrote:

2146 north wrote:Also catching a cab on the street in the garden dist can be almost as hard as the street car, so if you have your doubts call a cab.

Commander's will be more than happy to arrange a cab or limo to pick you up when you are finished dining. In fact, when you are ready, just let the Captain know. You can relax at your table while you are waiting and they will come and get you when your transportation has arrived.

My first meal at Commanders Palace in 2000 is the my benchmark for great restaurant service. It is one of the two greatest customer service experiences I have ever had at a restaurant

thanks for the tips on the cab(limo... ), walking, and food/drink/music options. just few more days of work in the salt mines and the trip is here.

- Cassamento's is on my lunch/snack choices list upthread & is definetley a lunch spot, most likely on a day when we are walking around Magazine street.

- K-Pauls deli style lunch seemed a better(less expensive) option than dinner just in case it has slipped. I simply want to try their version of the gumbo and perhaps some other dishes I make at home.

Donna's closed a few months ago.

Bacco...please don't. They are moving. Location hasn't been announced, but rumor is that it'll be in Metairie. And all accounts of recent meals there have been lukewarm--literally. Food coming out tepid. Tired Italian. If you want Creole Italian, go to Irene's (but make a reservation and be prepared to wait anyway).

Walking toward St. Charles on Washington from Commander's Palace=good advice. I would never warn someone off of walking in that area (unless you're creeped out by cemeteries) but different people have different views on what's safe/not safe.

Just had blow-out meals at Stella and August over the holidays. August is leaps and bounds above Stella, IMO. Can't poach from reviews I've just written, but the gist is this: Stella...stuffy, overly, awkwardly formal, weak wine service, food is good but doesn't justify the ridiculous price. $24 for foam, a nugget of lobster and domestic caviar inside an eggshell? Please. Similar item (seafood sabayon and fish fumet topped with cav in eggshell) is served as an amuse at August, and lightyears tastier. Neither is cheap, but definitely walked away from August feeling the value was there.

Sorry to hear Bacco went downhill My meal there a year ago was quite nice, things change.

For music hit Frenchman St. I go to Snug Harbor but stay in the bar, no cover and you still hear the music.

There is a place I have alwasy wanted to try Adolfos on Frenchman, reviews of it are all over the board. Maybe someone has been there, and can offer an opinion here.

For a walk I like the Marigny area, like anything just be aware of your surroundings. The architecture is gorgeous around there. My last trip I did my own tour of John Kennedy Toole sites. Saw two of the houses he lived in, where he was waked an buried from. Also the last house his mother lived in. I wanted to see his gravesite but ran out of time. I also always go to the Faulkner House bookstore and pick up something.

If you need to bring home trinkets for gifts you can do a quick walk down Decatur street and pick up whatever you need.

Wouldn't do Frenchmen St. with a kid, but it is a fun time. Hot place now is Three Muses -- great vibe, great local music, great global-snacky menu, great bar. It's...great.

I haven't been to Adolfo's (it's above the Apple Barrel on Frenchmen St....a fun, tiny dive bar with live music), but I've interviewed the guy who makes their pasta: Jimmy Moran, son of the late great N.O. fettuccini king Jimmy Brocato Moran Jr., and grandson of the legendary "Diamond Jim" Moran (Both men were monster restaurateurs here. "Diamond" got the nickname for allegedly occasionally putting diamonds in his meatballs.) Jimmy also sells his pasta to Eleven 79, another Creole Italian restaurant here (owned by Louis Prima's former manager, Joe Segreto). It is very, very good fresh pasta. If you go, be sure to ask which dishes use his pasta.

2146 north wrote:
For music hit Frenchman St. I go to Snug Harbor but stay in the bar, no cover and you still hear the music.

I always hit up Snug Harbor to see Charmaine Neville (now playing on Mondays I see). While we've typically eaten elsewhere and then (gladly) paid the cover if instead you dine there prior to the show (and the food's actually not bad) you get access to the show as well. For me, though, since I'm down there to have a good time (and not a local) I go eat where I want and then pay the cover - I've heard musicians need to pay bills too.

Kman wrote:

2146 north wrote:
For music hit Frenchman St. I go to Snug Harbor but stay in the bar, no cover and you still hear the music.

I always hit up Snug Harbor to see Charmaine Neville (now playing on Mondays I see). While we've typically eaten elsewhere and then (gladly) paid the cover if instead you dine there prior to the show (and the food's actually not bad) you get access to the show as well. For me, though, since I'm down there to have a good time (and not a local) I go eat where I want and then pay the cover - I've heard musicians need to pay bills too.

I guess that did sound insensitive. I find the room at Snug fills up fast and is real tight. Its more relaxing for me in the bar area. You are not squeezed in like a sardine and you still can hear the music. Another spot for really good music in the French Quarter is Irvin mayfields in the Royal Sonnesta. You can check on line who is there. I have seen some real good shows in that room.

Kman wrote:For music hit Frenchman St. I go to Snug Harbor...

Thumbs up for music at Snug Harbor. Just don't even think about eating there.
--Rich

jimswside wrote:- Cassamento's is on my lunch/snack choices list upthread & is definetley a lunch spot, most likely on a day when we are walking around Magazine street.

Be careful, they are closed b/w lunch and dinner service (something like 2-5:30 or 6). We got burned on that.

ziggy wrote:

jimswside wrote:- Cassamento's is on my lunch/snack choices list upthread & is definetley a lunch spot, most likely on a day when we are walking around Magazine street.

Be careful, they are closed b/w lunch and dinner service (something like 2-5:30 or 6). We got burned on that.

I did see that 2:00 p.m. til dinner siesta on their website and thought it was odd. But then again I am thinking I might need a 2:00 p.m. til happy hour siesta a few days to give my liver a break.

One more thing, At least for me, no trip is complete without at least one trip to the Roosevelt Hotel and drinks at the Sazerac bar. That whole hotel is worth a walk thru to see old school elegance.

no kids allowed @ Cooter Browns(ill head over there to check it out the night we are eating @ Boucherie)...

So thats out, as is the planned dinner @ Dante's.

Ill find somewhere with a raw bar that allows kids, to watch the early NFL game. Then off to dinner @ Emeril's Delmonico.. Not a huge fan of Emeril, but the menu looks interesting., plus Sunday dinner options seem limited with some spots not being open(first choice would be Herbsaint).

jimswside wrote: Ill find somewhere with a raw bar that allows kids, to watch the early game. Then off to dinner @ Emeril's Delmonico.. Not a huge fan of Emeril, but the menu looks interesting., plus Sunday dinner options seem limited with some spots not being open(first choice would be Herbsaint).

I've eaten at Delmonico's a few times and really enjoyed it (although it was pre-Hurricane Katrina.) I'm not a big fan of Emeril's fame machine either, so I was pleasantly surprised by the friendly ambiance and high quality of the food. My husband went back a few months ago when he was in NO for business and reported back that the food and service at Delmonico's was still really fantastic.

Hope that helps!

jimswside wrote:Then off to dinner @ Emeril's Delmonico.. Not a huge fan of Emeril, but the menu looks interesting.

Having eaten at both (pre-Katrina), given a choice between Delmonico's and the namesake Emeril's, I'd choose Emeril's. Having said that, given the choice between these two and someplace else on your list, I'd choose someplace else from the list.

Largely because of this thread, Mr. X and I will be taking a long weekend in the Big Easy. Since we just decided to do the trip today, I'll have to cull through this and other threads to plan our dining. I look forward to getting on the spot updates from Jim!

interesting(at least to me), gordon ramsay is going to be in NOLA when we are there, I am' making an attempt to get in on one of the 2 kitchen nightmare episodes hes is doing there.

Steve thanks for the input, I respect your opinion quite a bit(sundays are tough, alot of spots are not open, and we will still be learning the city), looking at the Emerils flagship menu, and the Delmonico's menu, it looked like we can get out of Delmonico's for less with the small, medium, and larger plate offerings(plus the charcuterie). Gotta pick and choose with 2 meals @ Commanders, a meal @ Galatories, etc. on the itenerary.

jimswside wrote:looking at the Emerils flagship menu, and the Delmonico's menu, it looked like we can get out of Delmonico's for less with the small, medium, and larger plate offerings(plus the charcuterie).

That is certainly true.

What he said ---->

stevez wrote:Having said that, given the choice between these two and someplace else on your list, I'd choose someplace else from the list.

Emeril's is an institution, and if you're aiming for an 'essential New Orleans' kind of run on restaurants, I guess one of his restaurants should make the list. I don't think you'll be disappointed in the food...just not jazzed by it. I'd pick Delmonico's over Emeril's.

How is Brightsen's these days? I haven't been to NO in a decade, but if I go, I'm there.

The other random crowded neighborhood place buried in my memory is Mandina's; had a good turtle soup there. Not a destination place but a great neighborhood joint.

sazerac wrote:How is Brightsen's these days? I haven't been to NO in a decade, but if I go, I'm there.

The other random crowded neighborhood place buried in my memory is Mandina's; had a good turtle soup there. Not a destination place but a great neighborhood joint.

Brightsen's has always been one of my favorite NOLA restaurants--and given that it's in an old home, always seemed pretty kid-friendly. It's also in the garden district, not far from Cooter Browns in case you want to try that in stead of Dante's.