My wife and I ate at Balsan last night. By both enjoyment and frequency of visits (we went 4 or 5 times), it's clearly my Restaurant of the Year for 2010 (not that I award any such thing or that anyone would care...). Rather than heap general accolades, some comments on last night, which was a typical experience.
(The room is a bit loud for my taste. I was seated close to a ceiling-mounted speaker and had to ask that the music be turned down because I was asking my wife to repeat everything she said, and I have excellent hearing.)
Our server, Brian, had comprehensive knowledge of the menus, both food and wine, and his suggestions and comments were spot-on. He was pleasant and efficient (and more, in a bit).
I had the chicken liver mousse (as per usual), which was pure silk. I particularly like the size of the fat cap they put on it... a lot of places overdo it and I end up scraping a good portion away, but Balsan's is probably 1/8", just how I like it. My gnocchi with mushrooms was fantastic, the gnocchi themselves perfectly textured little pillows: not heavy or dense. I had a pork belly choucroute with (housemade?) sausage that was also delicious, although the pork belly itself was the most disappointing food item of the evening. The skin was on, which added a nice crunch, but there was a solid 1" of fat between that and the first layer of meat. Simply too much for my taste, maybe others differ. The turnips and (fingerling? they had a lovely taste) potatoes were awesome on a cold Chicago night.
My wife started with an eggplant / garlic / olive oil spread which I thought was good, but a little lacking in body and flavor. A little too much olive oil, maybe; I think eggplant needs to be concentrated to really shine, and this wasn't. She had the arctic char, which I didn't try, but she loved it and it looked gorgeous.
We drank wines by the glass (rare for us). I actually think the wine list is a bit of a weak point; it's not terribly deep, and while I applaud a restaurant putting lesser-known blends and varietals on a list, not everyone wants that (my wife wanted Chardonnay with her fish, and isn't a fan of mineral-laden Burgs, which left her with one Sonoma choice, which she didn't end up loving). However, we did enjoy our Gruner-Veltliner (glad restaurants are showing this off more and more) and I had a lovely Barbera (suggested by Brian) with my entree. It's worth noting that Balsan isn't necessarily aiming for high-end wine service, and I'm sure Ria has a good list, so *shrug*. The beer list is excellent.
At this point we were full, but my wife wanted to linger a bit over her wine, so I asked Brian to bring me something sweet to sip for dessert, trusting him. He came back with two full-size stems, and informed us that he had made an "executive decision". Dan, the sommelier from Ria, then appeared with a third of a bottle of 1986 Pichon Lalande, which he emptied into our glasses. (In general, the three 80s Bordeaux vintages you want to drink are '82, '86, and '89.) Our tab was less than $200; we weren't "big time" customers, or regulars, or anything else. The restaurant just did something special for two diners who had a nice rapport with their server.
I can't recommend Balsan enough. It's definitely my current favorite.