Hi everyone,
I'm excited to report back on our cooking class and tour with Eugene. We had a great time with him, but I have to say that it wasn't quite as amazing as I was expecting. Most importantly, though, Eugene was a wonderful person to spend time with for almost a full day, and he was very knowledgable. It turned out that his partner, Antonio, was our cooking class teacher, and we absolutely loved him, too. Here is how the day went...
Eugene picked us up in the morning from Florence and we went for a drive through the Chianti for a couple of wine tastings. First, we went to the winery Corte di Valle. It is an agroturismo and the grounds were beautiful. The wine was quite good and we ended up buying two bottles, including one of vin santo. They also have a small saffron garden and we ate delicious saffron cookies while tasting the wine. Next, we went to the winery Castello Vicchiomaggio. The wine here was also good, but it was clearly a well-known tourist destination. I guess I was hoping that having Eugene there would allow us to meet with some very small wineries that are not usually open to the public. Somehow I can't find my winery photos, but safe to say that wineries in Tuscany are gorgeous.
After the wineries, we had a little bit of time before the cooking class. Eugene took us to the town of Greve-in-Chianti. This was traditionally a market town, but now the main square is mostly tourists. We went into the heavenly store of Falorni. They have been making their own salami, prosciutto, etc. since 1729. There was also a cheese room in the basement.

Wild boar prosciutto. Note the hair and tail still attached
We tried some samples and bought too much meat (don't tell, anyone, since we brought some back in our suitcases

). But again, we heard more English in this store than we had in the few days prior. I was just expecting to see more hidden, non-touristy things with Eugene.
Next, we were ready for the cooking class. Because of what we had read on the website, and from what we had learned from jnm123, we were expecting to do the cooking class at some wine estate. We were initially very disappointed to learn that we would be doing the cooking class at Eugene's own home, with his partner Antonio as our teacher. Again, we were just expecting a little more, especially for the cost of the day.
However, we ended up having a really nice, long afternoon cooking and talking. Antonio is a native Tuscan and was a chef and caterer in New York City for awhile before returning to Italy. It was actually nice to see a true Italian home, and their garden was very pretty. Some photos of the house and what we cooked...

Kevin chopping onions for chicken cacciatore. Behind him is a wood or coal burning fireplace in the kitchen.

Antonio preparing the pasta with artichokes

Pasta with artichokes and pine nuts, and chicken cacciatore

Their backyard where we ate and talked for several hours
We also made what were basically savory beignets with cheese and an almond chocolate cake that is native to Capri. I do feel like I learned a little bit, besides having fun. We got to practice rolling out pasta dough by hand. I make fresh pasta at home, so I really wanted to see how it is supposed to be done. Everything was delicious. The couple was also very helpful in giving us ideas for the rest of our time in Florence. They found a map in their home and marked many different places that they would recommend.
Although I had hoped that we might see more interesting, off the beaten path places with Eugene, I still had a fabulous time.
Weinerjb, I hope this helps you decide what you would like to do when you are in Italy. I know Eugene specializes in art history and also does tours around Florence of the museums. Also, I will post soon on the rest of our Italy trip in another thread, for more ideas on Florence.