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broken butcher top cart-fixable?

broken butcher top cart-fixable?
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  • broken butcher top cart-fixable?

    Post #1 - February 7th, 2011, 11:00 am
    Post #1 - February 7th, 2011, 11:00 am Post #1 - February 7th, 2011, 11:00 am
    I have a stainless steel cart with a thick butcher block wooden top-maybe 3 inches thick. The wooden top has split between the boards due to excessive weight over the years. It also is probably dried out too. I really am in a quandry as to repair-it seems that some sort of glue but I don't know if you can then use it for food stuffs, plus I would imagine that you would need a vice but the table top is pretty big. The split is in the middle so it may be difficlut to get some screw is in. Any hope?
    What disease did cured ham actually have?
  • Post #2 - February 7th, 2011, 12:05 pm
    Post #2 - February 7th, 2011, 12:05 pm Post #2 - February 7th, 2011, 12:05 pm
    Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is FDA approved for indirect food contact.
    You wont need a vise, a couple long wood clamps should work
  • Post #3 - February 7th, 2011, 12:11 pm
    Post #3 - February 7th, 2011, 12:11 pm Post #3 - February 7th, 2011, 12:11 pm
    Certainly it's repairable, but I don't think a vice (e.g. lust, greed, sloth, wrath, envy, pride, or gluttony - well maybe the last one) will help. If the crack runs the full length, you could probably reinforce it with biscuits and glue it back together with standard yellow glue, which is commonly used on cutting boards and such.
  • Post #4 - February 7th, 2011, 1:23 pm
    Post #4 - February 7th, 2011, 1:23 pm Post #4 - February 7th, 2011, 1:23 pm
    Yep - wood glue and clamps are the way the to go (and biscuits would certainly help a lot too). If you do glue it be sure to sand the edges you're gluing together to remove any old glue.

    If you think you have other joints that are about to split you might want to drill through the two pieces and use threaded rod to join the pieces. Gluing is probably your best bet.
    It is VERY important to be smart when you're doing something stupid

    - Chris

    http://stavewoodworking.com
  • Post #5 - February 24th, 2011, 12:10 pm
    Post #5 - February 24th, 2011, 12:10 pm Post #5 - February 24th, 2011, 12:10 pm
    From a woodworker friend who repairs high-end furniture for a living: "Use a syringe to inject glue between any separated seams and into the crack, then clamp the f**k out of it (on the sides perpendicular to the seams). Scrape (food approved) wood filler along the crack using a putty knife and sand it down when dried".

    I also have another friend who makes butcher block tables for a living (among other things). If you PM me, I can put you in touch with these guys. I am sure they can fix it for you, but they probably aren't cheap.
  • Post #6 - February 24th, 2011, 2:02 pm
    Post #6 - February 24th, 2011, 2:02 pm Post #6 - February 24th, 2011, 2:02 pm
    After posting the above, I went searching for food-safe wood fillers without much luck. There are several mentions of food-safe epoxy based fillers, but I cannot find any that specifically say they are safe for direct food contact. The McMasters-Carr catalog claims that epoxy fillers are "non-toxic", but that is not the same as food-safe. I will ask my friend who makes butcher block tables if he knows of such a thing. Otherwise, I would skip that step and hope the glue holds the crack tightly together, so it is not as obvious. You can wipe the thing with Butcher Block Oil (which I believe is just mineral oil) to revitalize and seal it.

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