A requiem for the Kendal Duque era at Sepia, rendered lovingly in the worst photographs possible, taken in no light by a phonecam and then unoriginally run through the sepia render in IrfanView:
grilled berkshire pork chop, draped in bacon, on a salad of arugula and apples in cassis vinaigrette
slow roasted veal breast with mint noodles, cipollini onions and truffle butter
walleye pike with artichokes, peas, wild mushrooms, marcona almonds, and tart vinaigrette
apple crumble, chocolate pecan pie with honey, banana cake with cream cheese frosting(I swear that I will replace these with shiny true-color Nikon pics if one of my dining companions gives them up, you know who you are)I was at the farewall meal (billed as "The Last Dinner," somehow appropriate for Lent) for Kendal Duque at Sepia last night, and thought it ascendant. If they were this lavish with the ingredients, this generous with the portions, and this careful with cooking everything to a perfect crisp-moist every day, I'd be here far more often.
We started with a nice round of cocktails and scotches, moderately priced. They were out of the cocoa and buttered rum (which honestly would have been appropriate on this snowy March night), and my mule came in a tallboy instead of a copper mug (I covet Ronnie's at the Bristol as I type), but everything was just fine. Our server explained the menu - three passed courses of flatbreads, cold starters, hot starters, followed by choice of three entrees and then back to shared desserts - and some last-minute variations on the menu that had been published on the site:
Sepia's Original Plan wrote:the last dinner
flat breads served family style
market selection
to start served family style
roasted foie gras and spring vegetables with truffle and chicken jus,
grilled ham with creamy polenta, wild mushrooms and fried duck egg,
baby octopus and garbanzo bean salad,
steak tartare with sourdough bread and raw farm egg
entrees choice of one
walleye pike with artichokes, peas, wild mushrooms and cashew vinaigrette, or
grilled berkshire pork chop with arugula and apples, or
slow roasted veal breast with mint noodles, cipollini onions and truffle butter
sweets
selection of tarts, pies and cakes
The flatbreads were served piping hot and were rich and succulent. The first featured mushrooms and roasted garlic, the second, bacon, gorgonzola, and caramelized onion. The cold starters were solid, with the tartare outshining the octopus in mouthfeel and flavor since the latter was slightly under-tenderized and fishier than nutty, making up for it by virtue of the excellent garbanzos, olive oil, and tomato sauce.
The hot appetizers were remarkably generous and quite fantastic. The portions of foie gras were seared and melty, and richly flavored the stew of pearl onions, beets, and root veggies upon which they sat, which had been additionally annointed with truffle and chicken jus. No off (or offal) flavor whatsoever, just earthy goodness. The ham and creamy polenta arrived in two heaping mounds within a cast-iron skillet. The mushrooms in this dish reinforced those from the flatbread, and the fried duck egg played off the raw chicken egg from the tartare; flavors throughout the meal were tied to eachother in playful remembrance, which I found delightful.
The entrees were perfectly cooked, with the limp bacon on the pork chops the one point of debate at our table. I thought it worked since it was obviously house-cured and meant to provide most of its essence right before serving. The chop itself was moist and massive, nestled against a really nice salad dressed with currant vinegar and the bacon fat. The veal breast was very nicely done, with good briskety texture, and served on a bed of perfectly al-dente house-milled mint noodles. I'd had these with lamb at Sepia before, and they were more assertively minty and soggier the last time. I liked this muted and (fighting it, caving in, giving up)
toothsome version. I've noted the very slight differences in accompaniment choices in the picture captions from the original menu above.
We closed with a trio of sweets which were short of spectacular, but quite satisfying. Some variation in temperature, or a jaunty savory element to better connect with the rest of the meal, would have gone a long way. As it was, though, the apple crumble was wedge-shaped, buttery and sweet, the honey-pecan-chocolate pie was triangular, buttery and sweet, and the banana cake in an inch of cream cheese frosting was, er, pyramidal, buttery and sweet. Not much to argue with.
Everything was clearly hand-picked by Kendal Duque from his list of favorites, whether to eat, or watch other people eat, I'm not sure, but it really worked. Flow and interplay of the meal was strong and rewarding and a unified experience under the sepia-casting chandeliers. I will miss Mr. Duque until his next spot opens. I will also look forward to seeing what Sepia will be like in other hands; I do really like the old printing space and table layout.