At some point I will posting an essay on El Bulli, but as it may take some time, I wanted to share my photos. You will wish to see the evidence rather than my babblings. We were served 42 courses in this last year of El Bulli on a menu that emphasized winter provisions, such as black truffles and game (hare and woodcock). I was impressed in examining Josh's photos and from comments by those who had dined at El Bulli before that the meal was less experiment, but almost restrained. It was not that there were no molecular dishes, but some of the striving for the new was less evident. Yes, this was "cuisine agape," a cuisine of amazement, but simultaneously it spoke to traditions in cuisine. Even Adria's new found classicism is not Escoffier's as Grant Achatz may soon demonstrate. Actually I have come to prefer dishes that are astonishingly simply, rather than those that strive for aerial acrobatics. Of the 42 courses, I would not wish to taste all again (there tofu tiramisu I could do without and the sugar cane was less than compelling), but other dishes were evocative and will live as long as I do in my memory. Ferran Adria is one of the few true geniuses in the culinary world (Grant Achatz is another), even when his ideas do not pan out.
With forty-two courses the meal permitted sets of courses, creating musical variations on a theme: we had a set of mojito courses, a set of shrimp courses. nut courses, truffle courses, Mexican courses, and game courses. And sometimes we would revisit a theme. I have had better courses, but with a very, very exceptions, never a better meal. With fifty cooks, twenty-five servers, and fifty diners, service was splendid. One of the eight of us could not eat raw fish or shellfish, meat, or liquor. For many restaurants this would be a problem. But her forty-two courses (about half were different) were just as proficient as ours. As is evident, Adria is not a star when it comes to plating - only a few dishes are beautiful on the plate and some are (perhaps deliberately) sloppy - he cares about the theory of taste, the idea of the gustatory senses. In that he is the master.
Even with 42 courses and 6 bottles of wine (for seven of us), we were not stuffed after five hours (but no pizza on the way home)
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Here is the man himself greeting his guests
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Ferran Adria by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
An elegant start to the mojito theme.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Ginger and Lime Candi by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
A warm and minty mojito
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Warm Caipi-Mojito by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Mojito 3.0 - a mojito sandwich, very playful
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Mojito and Apple Flute by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Moving from mojito to nuts with the almond fizz
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Almond-Fizz with Amarena by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
A beautiful dish using ingredients that would challenge other chefs.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Nori Seaweed with Lemon by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
The olive oil chip was masterful. It could be found nowhere but El Bulli.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 Olive Oil Chip with Parmesan "Macaron" by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
An early dessert - and an ode to nuts
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Peanut and Honey Cookie by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
More nuts, and the start of the Latin theme.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Hibiscus and Peanut by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
As good a ravioli as I have had. Nuts!
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Pistachio Ravioli by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
One of Adria's best dishes. Simple and so clever and so shrimpy. Beautiful. I won't forget this, ever.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Shrimp Tortilla by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Classic shrimp.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Boiled Shrimp by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
The third (and fourth) shrimp - with an intense "soup"
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Prawn Two Firings by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Another amazing and simple dish. Four dabs of carrot and one dab of peppery carrot (it is number four). Wonderful.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Quails with Carrot Escabeche by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
A pure palate cleanser
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Tomato Tartar by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
My least favorite - a bit of a mess, and not pretty. There has to be one worst dish. It just didn't sing.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Soya Tiramisu by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
A much better use of soy, each bite had a distinct taste: how did he do this?
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Soya Matches by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Ferran at his most playful: caviar with hazelnut cream. Hazelnut caviar with caviar cream. A very Fat Duck/Moto playful dish. A laugh riot. I wouldn't have it again, but I will talk about it endlessly.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Caviar Cream with Hazelnut Caviar by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Very pleasant "bread" stick, hazelnut style.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Liquid Hazelnut Porra by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Wow. As truffly as things get. The texture matched the dark intensity of the fungus. A great and extravagant use of the black truffle.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Truffle Cake by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
A play on fish cuisine with endive. A good and light dish.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Endive in Papillote 50% by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
In contrast to the above dish, an uber-rich cake.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Foie Cake by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Simple. Classic. And as good as cheese gets in the hands of a master.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - San Felicienne (cheese) Blini by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Fun as a quicky. I prefer eels more robustly prepared, but it was an aquatic palate cleanser.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Steamed Eels by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
A dish of sublime complexity. Part of the Latin sequence
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Lulo "Ceviche" and Mollusk by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
What a beautiful dish. Iced gazpacho with prime olive oil. Adria removes all of the color (how?), but leaves in all of the taste. It would be the best dish in July, and pretty amazing in February.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Iced "Gazpacho" and "Ajo Blanco" by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
The bridge between the Latin courses and the game courses. A bite size treasure.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Hare Bunuelo by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Soup Starbucks style - finally foam. Note the absence of form (and other oddities) in the rest of the meal.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Game Meat Capuccino by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
A vegetable dish for the diner who didn't eat meat. I just thought it was so pretty - but not a great photo. (It wasn't part of the game sequence)
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Peas Two Ways by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Game and fruit (with a Latin twist with soursop): lovely dish. Perhaps the best of the game offerings.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Woodcock with Guanabana (Soursop) by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Another fruit and game special. A strong dish as well.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Blackberry Risotto with Game Meat Sauce by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Very intense dish. A fine taste of the wild. Traditional, but also El Bulli style
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Hare Ravioli with Bolonesa (and Blood) by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Sweet blood sauce in a wine glass
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Sweet "Blood" Sauce by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Another in the set of game "soups" with fruit.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Hare Cocktail with Raspberry by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Finally game and nuts - wrapped up in a delicious package. Perfect for snacking.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Hare Chestnut with Liver Puree by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Another treat and trick. One of the jelly beans is salty: a reprise of the quail dish. The best dessert.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Pandang Ice Cream with Coconut Water by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
OK. A palate cleanser
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Sugar Cubes with Lime Whiskey Sour by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
A second palate cleanser.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Rum Sugar Cane by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Powerfully bitter and sweet. Can chocolate taste so intense?
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Mini-Donuts with 97% Pure Chocolate by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
A very enjoyable sweet. It went down easily and quickly
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Coca de Vidre - Crystal Cake - Coconut and Pine nuts by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
A strong way to wrap up, reminding us that despite the nods to classicism, Chef Adria created much of modern cuisine that we take for granted.
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - Gold Leaves in Coffee-Chocolate Soil by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
The finale! The freeze dried strawberries were particularly notable as was the passionfruit-yogurt sponge
El Bulli - Roses - February 2011 - The "Box" by
garyalanfine, on Flickr
Toast, as every breakfaster knows, isn't really about the quality of the bread or how it's sliced or even the toaster. For man cannot live by toast alone. It's all about the butter. -- Adam Gopnik