help for first time visitors

I've been lurking for a while now as we're planning a short trip to Chicago; and, I have to say, this forum is wonderfully informative about all levels of dining. My compliments to the posters -and thanks in advance for your advice.

We (husband and I) will be arriving in mid February for four days (Wed 16 to Sun 20) staying at the Burnham Hotel. Presuming our flight is on time, we'll be arriving mid afternoon and I'm thinking that we'll eat a late lunch at the Gage.

Next day we have a late lunch reservation at Topolobampo and, on Saturday evening, Alinea (this is my husband's birthday treat). It's Friday I'm wondering about. We go to a matinee at the Opera that day and we'll have that evening free for dinner. I do have a reservation at The Girl and the Goat, but I'm beginning to have second thoughts about it. I'm not sure that the scene there won't outweigh the pleasures of the food, given all the hype about the place right now - and we're really not into scene.

Would we do well to consider something a bit less frenetic? Cafe Spiaggia? We're thinking more mid-level rather than fine dining.

Thanks, Kathy

Hello fridayfan--

Sounds like you've got an excellent start on the weekend!

Perhaps you might consider getting out of the downtown area, and venture out to a neighborhood? In that regard, the board's Great Neighborhood Restaurants list might be helpful. Many of them are convenient to the El...

Where are you coming from?? With that knowledge, we may be able to suggest something you're not likely to be able to get at home.

Enjoy your trip!
-jim

Sounds like a great itinerary!

I've read a lot about Girl and the Goat; I haven't been there but I'm holding a reservation for an upcoming date. Based on everything I've read, I would advise you to keep your reservation.

Of course, it's not the only moderately-priced restaurant in town with excellent food. There are lots of other choices, many of which are conveniently located within a short walk of your hotel without requiring a cab or el/bus. Cafe Spiaggia is good if you want Italian, although it's not all that close; other good Italian choices which are much closer to your hotel include Cibo Matto, Vivere, and the Florentine. If you'd like to go with contemporary American, I love Sable, with Chef Heather Terhune's cooking and artisanal cocktails; you could also go to Atwood Cafe, her former haunt for ten years, which is right inside your hotel.

But again, I don't think there's any need to change your Girl and the Goat reservation.

Thanks for the quick replies.

Jim, we're coming from small town Southern Ontario, so no really fine dining close to home - that's why we think about food so much when we travel.

Nsxtasy, your reply is reassuring.

Kathy

Anytime I find myself west of Wacker Dr., I think to myself, "How can I turn this into an opportunity to go to Avec?" If you want to stay downtown-ish, depending on when the opera gets out on Friday, you may want to aim for an early dinner at Avec. They don't take reservations, but if you get there on the early side, you shouldn't have too long a wait. It is the place I recommend most often to visitors staying downtown.

Avec Restaurant
615 West Randolph Street
Chicago, IL 60661
(312) 377-2002

fridayfan wrote:We go to a matinee at the Opera that day and we'll have that evening free for dinner. I do have a reservation at The Girl and the Goat, but I'm beginning to have second thoughts about it. I'm not sure that the scene there won't outweigh the pleasures of the food, given all the hype about the place right now - and we're really not into scene.

Fellow Canadian here who's also excited about catching Girl of the Golden West next month. If you are not into scene, I would say most definitely skip Girl and the Goat on a Friday night--especially after something so lovely as the opera. The food can sometimes be special there, but the space is very large, always loud and, well, just scene-y, unless you're there early and have a quick meal.

As this board knows, I always endorse Avec either before or after the opera. Of late, I've rediscovered my love for the food at Blackbird, so that's once again an occasional pre-opera stop for me. I don't usually have time to do this before the Lyric, but ideal for me, and which you could do, is dinner at Avec followed by dessert at Blackbird. I adore what Patrick Fahy is doing.

Avec and Blackbird have their pluses and minuses which you should be aware of. A big plus for Avec is that they open at 3:30 p.m. so you can walk right in after the opera without waiting for them to open. Another plus is that the first hour they're open, it's relatively empty and peaceful, and you won't have to sit with strangers. Any later than 5:00, though, and they get slammed, so even if you've already been seated, the noise is INCREDIBLY LOUD. And the seats are the most uncomfortable you'll find anywhere, and it's all 8-tops and the bar. Blackbird is a different story, although it too is INCREDIBLY LOUD and if you're in one of the banquette tables you'll be thisclose from the next table. Unlike Avec, I've liked the food at Blackbird a lot, although portion sizes can be small. Blackbird accepts reservations, but they book up, so if you want to go there, make a reservation in advance (they accept them on Opentable.com). Blackbird opens at 5:00.

I'd also recommend a few additional places in the vicinity of the opera. La Sardine may be the best French bistro in town. They open at 5:00 and they accept reservations over the phone and on their own website but not Opentable. For Italian food, the Florentine is nearby and on your way back to the hotel, opens at 5:00, and is on Opentable. Vivere is on your way also and opens at 5:00 and is on Opentable.

I would say INCREDIBLY LOUD is in the eye of the beholder. I've never really had an issue with the noise level at either Avec or Blackbird.

nsxtasy wrote:...the noise is INCREDIBLY LOUD.

Only INCREDIBLY LOUD if you use caps.

Avec is not a quiet place, but I've never had to yell with just one dining companion and have enjoyed intimate meals both at the bar and at the communal tables (different story if you're in a party of five and seated at the opposite end as the person with whom you're speaking). On a recent Friday, Avec was quiet until 6pm and then merely a jovial buzz of conversation. Perhaps there's just something about my ass, but I've sat comfortably at Avec, again at the bar and at tables, for hours without thinking about it.

As for Blackbird, I just had dinner there with one other person, and we literally whispered to each other at multiple points during the evening. Didn't even have to hunch forward. Volume was not an issue. Nsxtasy, maybe if it's loud next time, you can just go, "SSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHH!"

happy_stomach wrote:Perhaps there's just something about my ass, but I've sat comfortably at Avec, again at the bar and at tables, for hours without thinking about it.

Speaking of asses, the one potentially bad thing about Avec's seating is that there are no backs on the chairs or stools, so it is not infrequent that I spend half my time there staring at the crack of someone whose shirt has risen up while his or her pants rode down. This can either add to or take away from the dining experience.

When in doubt, Publican. Or, spend some time hopping around taco and BBQ spots, since you can't really get those in Canada, no?

Kennyz wrote:Speaking of asses, the one potentially bad thing about Avec's seating is that there are no backs on the chairs or stools, so it is not infrequent that I spend half my time there staring at the crack of someone whose shirt has risen up while his or her pants rode down. This can either add to or take away from the dining experience.

Phil Vettel mentioned the same thing in this review.

Vitesse98 wrote:When in doubt, Publican. Or, spend some time hopping around taco and BBQ spots, since you can't really get those in Canada, no?

That's exactly what I was thinking - how about Frontera or Topolobampo?

http://www.rickbayless.com/restaurants/

Ursiform wrote:how about Frontera or Topolobampo?

They already have a lunch reservation at Topolobampo.

nsxtasy wrote:They already have a lunch reservation at Topolobampo.

Ooops, my mistake! I was running back and forth from the kitchen preparing lunch.

The Girl of the Golden West was estimated at 3 hours 10 minutes preseason and now 3 hours 6 minutes on Lyric's website. This means that getting to the street after a 2:00 pm matinee will be at least 5:15 without a restroom stop. Timing does not look too good relative to Avec.

Another complication: hasn't the Wacker Drive construction closed both the Washington and Randolph bridges to pedestrians?

As for Blackbird, I just had dinner there with one other person, and we literally whispered to each other at multiple points during the evening. Didn't even have to hunch forward. Volume was not an issue.

Except for Alinea, I don't know of any restaurant in Chicago that two people could whisper to one another at. Your experience at Blackbird is the polar opposite of mine. The tables really are thisclose and with occupied tables on each side of you, well, I congratulate you on your Superman like hearing. Or perhaps you just whisper really LOUD.

If you are not into scene, I would say most definitely skip Girl and the Goat on a Friday night--especially after something so lovely as the opera. The food can sometimes be special there, but the space is very large, always loud and, well, just scene-y,

Disagree here as well. A scene-y restaurant would be Hub 51 or Sunda. GATG is just popular because of Chef Izard and the fact that the food is pretty darn good. GATG is certainly no louder than Blackbird. Heck, we were there on NYE and I'd say it was quieter than the dinner we had at Blackbird last fall. The space isn't that large. Bigger than Blackbird, yes but I'd wager that the number of seats isn't that great. It isn't always loud and it isn't scene-y.

In other words, fridayfan, just go wherever sounds good to you. We have no idea.

Fridayfan - just an fyi that the Lyric has a nice little bistro if you want a quick pre- opera lunch. Open only to ticketholders, the food is not brilliant but quite tasty and light ... Small servings which I find preferable before heading into the theater and very inexpensive. The doormen at the Lyric get patrons cabs which is a help but at 5ish on a Friday, the line may be long but they do have everyone wait inside in old weather - just expect to wait about 20 minutes or more if cabbing.

I'm also a Sable fan but you might consider Naha for really lovely food in a nice setting for post-opera. Naha is "new american" done very well indeed.

Our arrival in Chicago is imminent!

It even looks like the weather is going to co-operate.

After these past few weeks I've been thinking that flying to Chicago from Buffalo in February was not the smartest thing we've ever planned to do.

I've changed our plans up a bit. You've convinced me that we shouldn't miss Avec so we'll go early, soon after it opens, on the afternoon we arrive.

On the next day (our Art Institute and Symphony day- we're gorging on culture too) I've got reservations for what we think of as "lupper" at The Gage. Is there a good breakfast spot close to the Burnham that's not quite as formal as the Atwood Cafe - more like a diner?

On Friday morning we'll see the Vivian Maier exhibition and wander up to Xoco, whether for breakfast or lunch depends on our time of rising. And yes, I did keep our reservation at the Girl and the Goat for post-opera.

Saturday is an architecture tour in the morning with Alinea in the evening. I'm guessing that we shouldn't eat a whole lot earlier in the day.

I've realized that we have to fit Pizano's in somewhere too, but I'm not sure where. Oh, and Intelligentsia Coffee too, if only to buy some beans to bring home.

Too many restaurants, too little time.

I'm really sorry that we won't have time to explore some of the neighbourhoods. I feel that we're behaving like "those" tourists in New York who never get out of Midtown. We will just have to remedy that on our next trip which, I guarantee you, will be in better weather.

See ya soon, Kathy

Hi Kathy --

While I would never call the Atwood "formal" (More like Ladies who Lunch) there's literally no chance at a decent diner in that area. Whatever passes for a diner in the loop isn't really someplace I'd recommend to someone who doesn't work there and is looking for a breakfast under $5.

What I would suggest you do is to head over to Wabash and go to Heaven on Seven, which is dineresque AND cajun/creole.
They serve breakfast on Monday through Saturday starting at 9. It is not New Orleans...but it's pretty fun and tasty. I especially like their Jalapeno Corn Muffins.

http://www.heavenonseven.com/wabash.html

I have to thank you because I had NO idea that Heaven on 7 served breakfast daily. It makes me very happy to find out.

111 N. Wabash - 7th Floor, Chicago, IL 60602
(312) 263-6443 phone
(312) 263-3777 fax

I would not skip Pizano's. Despite your dinner at Alinea -- i'd make time for pizza during your day of Art and Culture. Get the small and thin crust. And Intelligentsia's is also very close to all of this -- it's near Randolph and Wabash -- it's all very close by. You can grab a delicious coffee and grab some beans on your day of culture.


Have a great time -- there are rumors of 62 degrees this weekend.

fridayfan wrote:Is there a good breakfast spot close to the Burnham that's not quite as formal as the Atwood Cafe - more like a diner?

It's a small detour, but Lou Mitchell's on Jackson would be my recommendation. It's a classic Chicago diner and serves up some great breakfast. You can rub shoulders with a broad cross section of Chicagoans.

Lou Mitchell's
565 W. Jackson Blvd
Chicago, IL
312-939-3111

Breakfast is the only thing to get at the original Heaven on Seven in my opinion, so that's a good idea. With Harry's closed, it might be the last grits optinion in the Loop. But I don't think the breakfast options in the Loop are so bad if you are creative. Better than lunch.

For instance, right next to the Burnham is Beard Papa. Who wouldn't want Japanese cream puffs for breakfast? They are damn good. Around the corner is a perfectly pleasant Intelligentsia, which the OP should visit if they like coffee at all. For an interesting only-in-Chicago scene, there's Ceres in the Board of Trade, where the chilaquiles shouldn't be overlooked, nor should the bloody marys. Go look at what's left of the trading floor when you are done. And as bad as people think the various Greek owned diners are (eg, Maxim's, Marquette Inns), they can make a respectable breakfast. Speaking of which, Billy Goat is another place that I consider to be better at breakfast than lunch. Oh, another really good option -- Cafecito for Cuban breakfast, especially toast with cafe con leche.

If you are willing to cab it, I'd go with GNRs Moon's or Manny's.

Breakfast is the only thing to get at the original Heaven on Seven in my opinion, so that's a good idea. With Harry's closed, it might be the last grits option in the Loop.

Agree re HoS: the cheese grits are quite good, tho, and they now also offer eggs over grilled cornbread accompanied by red beans for those who like their breakfasts really hearty. The Gage also was recently offering stone-ground grits (with duck confit!) as a breakfast special, altho the latter (at least for breakfast) would probably be considered in the "formal" category.

Ah....more choices.

Both Cafecito and Heaven on Seven sound good. Needless to say,. neither Cajun nor Cuban are much in evidence here.

I'll make sure to report back.

Kathy

More like a diner and within walking distance is

Pittsfield Cafe
55E. Washington

Ada's Famous Deli
14 S. Wabash


Definitely hit Cafe Intelligentsia, there is one within a block of here. They don't really have hot breakfast food options, but the coffee and the beans are a must.

How we learned that in Chicago “small plate” is a relative term.....

Hi folks - We’re back home after a superb trip. Great weather and great food. I’ll just do a quick report on each place we ate, sparing you lengthy food descriptions. After all, we ordered based upon the recommendations I found here.

Day 1- AVEC

Egg Crostini, Chorizo stuffed dates, Hunter Sausage with Rapini and Pork Shoulder accompanied by Blanche de Namur beer

Food and drink were both A+, even the cheese course we ended up not getting. To explain that; since we were both starving we ordered the four courses above and a cheese course. The waitress, judging accurately that we had ordered too much, delayed actually placing the cheese order until after we had finished the pork. Those small plates were HUGE! She saved us from ordering a course that we couldn’t possibly consume. We felt that to be very nicely considered service on her part. She earned an A+ and a very good tip.

Day 2 - INTELLIGENTSIA and THE GAGE

We woke up still feeling stuffed after the previous night’s dinner, so latte and a scone at Intelligentsia was the perfect breakfast. Food and drink were A+. Service B-, well intentioned but spacey staff. You are so fortunate to have coffee like that. It’s been a very painful return to Tim Horton’s.

A burger and fish&chips (plus a beet salad) sounds like the most prosaic of meals. It wasn’t at The Gage. Food and service were A, beer (a draught Paulaner and a bottled Affligem) were A+. Beginning to understand Chicago serving sizes, we split the salad. The Gage is so, so much better than it needs to be, given its location.

Day 3 - XOCO and The GIRL and the GOAT

We walked up to XOCO for breakfast and promptly got a table. We had Cafe con Leche, an egg&chorizo torta and an open-faced torta. Really good food (A) in a fast-food setting. The service was as good as it could be given the aims of the restaurant.

That tided us over until after the Opera when we walked over to the Girl and the Goat.

Beet Bread, Chickpea fritters, Sauteed Green Beans, Seafood fideos, Goat Loin and Blood Orange Sorbet accompanied by Allagash white beer and a forgettable white beer from Colorado.

I am so glad we didn’t cancel our reservation here. Never before have I had successive courses where I just wanted to lick the plate. Chef Stephanie really understands depth and balance in flavour. Each dish was a party, a bit loud but lots of fun, as was the atmosphere in the restaurant. The place was really packed and humming when we left at 7:30. Service was very good. Our impossibly thin waitress, Andrea, was welcoming and attentive. We were impressed by how well the staff was working as a team.

Food A+. Service A+.

Day 4 - PITTSFIELD CAFE and ALINEA

Eggs, over easy, bacon and toast.

Thanks to your help we found the Pittsfield Cafe, tucked away and out of sight as it is. It was exactly what we were looking for - an individually owned and operated diner such as is all too rare now. Good honest comfort food, a welcoming, non-hip waitress of a certain age (just like us) and an obviously regular clientele. Good value too. 
As you can tell, we loved it.

Alinea. What can I say that hasn’t already been said? - with a chef who is obsessively creative, a beautiful zen like atmosphere, and unequalled service, it’s an unforgettable experience. And the food tastes good. And it’s fun. And no, we didn’t have beer. We shared a reserve wine pairing that was superlative.

We planned the trip around dining here and it exceeded all our expectations. Alinea is beyond rating.

Day 5 - ATWOOD CAFE

Our only disappointing food of the trip was here, right in our hotel. The room is beautiful, the service good but the food was awful, at least mine was. I had Eggs Benedict Florentine - poached eggs on raw spinach on an untoasted, COLD English Muffin. Yecch. My husband’s omelet was passable.

Unfortunately the Atwood Cafe fulfilled my expectations in regard to hotel breakfasts. Convenience trumped the quality of the food. I’d hoped for better.



Alas, we’re finding that our capacity for food is diminishing; hence, no pizza and no hot dogs. Pizano’s and Hot Doug’s will have to wait until next time. That means we’re just going to have to come back.

Thanks to all who helped make our trip as delicious as it was.

Kathy



Kathy-

Thanks for reporting back. It sounds like you had a good trip with great food!

-Mary

Great post Kathy--thanks so much for coming back and letting us know where you went, what you enjoyed, who shined (and who didn't!) It's much appreciated.

And I hope you keep checking back in. We gather info from our members about their eating experiences worldwide (check out the Beyond Chicagoland section) so you could likely help some of us as well!

Til next time!