The Bride consented to join me for lunch today at Zenwich, which I was dismayed to discover I had missed while frequenting La Rosticeria, almost around the corner on North. Glad to have remedied this.
The two of us shared three sandwiches - Mu Ping, Banh Mi and Bulgogi. For those of you who like to read the ending of the book before you start, we left very well pleased. Good ingredients, a deft touch and nice composition, excellent sandwiches. Not perfect, but very good, pretty much unique in my experience, warm welcome, fair price for what you get.
Let me start with a dissection of what we had, and then I will embark on the meta-discussion regarding authenticity and comparables.
The Bulgogi sandwich was the star for me. Any good sandwich starts with the bread, and Zenwich has a very good, fresh, crusty ciabatta. On top of that went a decent portion of marinated beef, a little lettuce and a nice dose of hot sauce. This pleased both first time and again when cold later this evening. The cucumber salad served along with it was a definite example of Zenlike perfection, small cucumber slices, a few slivers of onion, one slice of jalapeno, and a whisper of sugary vinegar, easy to miss. This was perfection.
The pickle had good flavor and was crisp enough, though my preference runs to a fresher pickle. The homemade chips were quite well done, but I was not that fond of the touch of sweetness in the seasoning. I would prefer a bit more salt, a bit more pepper and hold the sweet, but that is just my preference and I respect what they are doing.
The Bride got to the Mu Ping first and it was everything I could do to get a bite. A more harmonious medley, compared to the Bulgogi that slammed you in the face, dancing on the tongue. The warmth, the tang, all suited us well on this February day. She took the slaw accompaniment from another sandwich. Nicely vinegary and again showing admirable restraint. Must be said that we discussed the amount of meat and she pointed out to me that the meat pretty much ended about an inch in from either end of the roll, which may be the reason for the discussion about the amount of meat. To me this is a portion size discussion and rather beside the point - the sandwich worked quite well, and, I admit, I enjoyed eating both heels of her roll as much as the other parts of the sandwich so I have no complaints.
Having said that, I do get the point that for $7.25 one could complain about the generosity, or lack thereof, of the serving size, but you will not get that from this boy.
The Banh Mi was problematic for me. I am not convinced that comparing my Bulgogi sandwich to Bulgogi at my favorite Korean BBQ makes any more sense than comparing John Coltrane's version of My Favorite Things to that of Julie Andrews - sure they are the same composition on a basic level, and I could say that I prefer Julie's version to John's because when I want to hear this song hers is the original and I can listen to it so much more quickly... But honestly, they are completely different experiences and I would not order one rather than the other.
But Banh Mi is a sandwich, I can get very good versions not very far away (just head out North Avenue a couple of miles) at half the price. And the pork was quite lean as previous posts have indicated they want. Too lean for me. In the end, the sandwich we shared seemed to be mostly a cold version of the Mu Ping and it paled in comparison both to that and to other Banh Mi I have enjoyed. Easy enough to address, though, simply by not ordering it again.
Honestly, I do get the comparison between these sandwiches and the dishes they are riffing on, and I surely understand the preference for the real dishes. May even share it. But for me the comparison is to other sandwiches, and the question is whether these sandwiches please me. They were bright, well made, flavorful and, even the worst of them, the Banh Mi, was enjoyable, just paling in comparison to other Banh Mi.
I was very pleased by Zenwich, and I will be back. Not sure how soon I will be back to La Rosticeria, but my guess is that it will not be so soon. Sorry guys.
d
Feeling (south) loopy