Kingfisher first impressions

Haven't posted in quite a while, but have a few spare minutes and wanted to dish on the new place in the old Arkadash space 'Kingfisher'

I met about 8 friends there last night for dinner. Overall consensus at the table was a resounding 'meh'. Most (those from other hoods like Roscoe and Wicker Park) said they wouldn't come back.

The good: great space, wonderful service. I can tell that the owners clearly know how to open and run a restaurant from years of experience.

The bad: the menu was so basic continential cuisine it reminded me of eating at a Marriott in the suburbs. For example Tequila Lime shrimp, Garlic Shrimp Scampi and Coconut shrimp were all entree options. Other entrees were similarly basic recipes of tried and true favorites from decades past.

Now, A'ville has become a bit snooty (Acre, Anteprima, Ceres table down south) and As a resident for a number of years now I am likely more snooty as well. That doesn't mean I am going to turn my nose up at a throwback, nothing fancy menu, or at least I hope I am not sub-conciously.

 But IMHO if you are going to hawk classic continental cuisine at a $20 to $30  in this town - you have to execute it at a level where things like shrimp cocktail,  lake perch, and mashed potatoes are flawless and really remind you why this cuisine was so popular back in the day.

Not the case here - just safe, decent cooking.. Nothing too special - the ribs were ok, a bit too peppery, the perch was ok, not as crispy as I would have liked, the shrimp cocktail had a watery but acceptable cocktail sauce. Crab cakes were ok, a bit bready and clearly used claw meat vs. lump.


Seeing as Calo's is just down the street and has a lock on the family restaurant of the 'hood I just don't get opening this restaurant, in this town, at this time. I mean two places with chicken vesuvio on the menu within 4 blocks on the same street is overkill!

I really think a few risks on the menu need to be taken, or, the execution of this cuisine needs to go to the next step, otherwise - I don't see Kingfisher as a success long term

5721 N. Clark St.
Chicago, IL 60660
773-506-7014
http://www.kingfisheronclark.com/