Rene G wrote:As a child I was fond of my mother's Swiss steak but I've hardly eaten any since I was a wee lad.
I made up for lost time recently. Three lunches of Swiss steak, each very different, in as many days.
Cellars Market is a large cafeteria in the basement of the Chicago Board of Trade. They offer Swiss steak as a special on Thursdays ($7.69 with mashed potatoes).


I was asked if I wanted gravy and before I knew what was happening, both potatoes and steak were smothered in gloppy brown stuff. It wasn't good gravy to begin with and had no connection with the dish. A big part of Swiss steak's appeal is the way the long-cooked meat and gravy integrate with each other. This gravy ruined the plate for me but even without it I don't think I would have enjoyed the Swiss steak very much. The meat itself wasn't bad, mechanically tenderized but still with a bit of chew (and a little sinew and gristle) but the sautéed onions and green peppers (no tomato) seemed like they'd been cooked separately. I don't see myself ordering this again but in case anyone is tempted, I strongly recommend getting gravy on the side if at all.
Valois is Hyde Park's beloved old cafeteria, actually one of Chicago's oldest restaurants. You can get Swiss steak on Tuesdays and Fridays ($5.95 including potato, vegetable and rolls).


On Fridays, Swiss steak is advertised as coming with rice but they had no problem subbing mashed potatoes. This was a better meal than the previous one in every way (and an excellent value). The abundant vegetable gravy enhanced both the tender meat and potatoes, the last bits getting sopped up with the nice, fresh roll (curiously light on salt). Not quite the tomato-and-green-pepper-heavy version I'm used to but still appealing. I would order this again without hesitation.
The next day I decided to try something a little different. Andrzej Grill serves a Polish version every day ($8.50 including bread, salads or vegetable, and choice of potato).


Bitki wołowe w sosie własnym (beef cutlet with natural gravy) is freely translated as Swiss steak. The meat's texture is fairly close but the beefy gravy with carrots isn't. Even if it's not the traditional American recipe, it's very good, maybe my favorite of the three. The three salads (sauerkraut, shredded beet and cucumber with sour cream) and potato pancakes are excellent as well. I'm on record as saying mashed potatoes are a necessary accompaniment to Swiss steak but I'm currently reevaluating my position.
I'm still looking for a restaurant that serves Swiss steak with a tomato and green pepper gravy. My homemade version turned out pretty well if I say so myself.
Cellars Market
141 W Jackson Blvd (basement)
Chicago
312-427-3444
Valois Cafeteria
1518 E 53rd St
Chicago
773-667-0647
Andrzej Grill
1022 N Western Av
Chicago
773-489-3566