Just got back from a weekend in NO and more superlatives are in order.
Got off the airplane, dumped our bags at the hotel and headed straight to
Bayona. Hadn't been there since before Katrina, but happy to report it's as good as ever. In true New Orleans tradition, once they've perfected a recipe they leave it alone and they leave it on the menu. I think the Grilled Shrimp with Black Bean Cake and Coriander Sauce app and the Garlic Soup have been on the menu since they opened over 20yrs ago, both are still excellent dishes

Friday was upper-80s, sunny and humid, and marching around in that heat called for an ice cold cocktail. What could be better on a hot day than the
Napoleon House, literally and figuratively one of the coolest bars in America. Windows thrown wide open to embrace the faint breeze, ceiling fans whirling, sensible awning shading the sun, two-foot thick masonry walls holding in the cool - no A/C necessary, especially when the marvelously mustachioed Mario immediately comes over and puts an icy Gin & Tonic in your hand.

Had our first meal at an Emeril restaurant that night at
NOLA. Now that the Bam! nonsense is over we figured it was safe to venture forth. Wasn't the most mind-blowing meal but I'm glad we went. Beautiful room, made even more beautiful by former Chicago newscaster Tamron Hall sitting at the bar, yowza! She's even more stunning in person. This is in an old Creole mansion right across the street from Napoleon House. You enter at ground level and it looks pretty cozy, but I didn't realize they had three floors of dining. I thought they were taking us up the elevator to plant us in Siberia, but the 3rd floor was just fine. Very crowded but service was excellent, it's a very efficiently run place even though they're running food up with a dumbwaiter. Service bar is on each floor, so the martini's arrived ice cold - yes! My main course was a monstrous braised pork shank, delicious. My wife had the shrimp & grits, wouldn't bother ordering that again. The shrimp were in a sweet bbq-type sauce that's not described that way on the menu, I find the more savory versions much tastier. The real winner of the meal was the black bean & corn succotash side dish, phenomenally good - each ingredient stood out but was melded by an unexpected dose of citrus, really went beautifully with the pork.
My favorite meal of the trip was breakfast next morning at
Stanley on Jackson Square. Had never eaten here before, but this will be a must visit every future trip. How can you not love a place where the waiter greets you at 9:45AM with, "Good morning, can I get you a bloody mary or a mimosa?" A capital suggestion. And then the menu is headed by the ridiculously decadent "Eggs Stanley" - basically eggs benedict with a handful of perfectly fried oysters strewn over the top. I salute the complete awesomeness of this place, devastatingly good. Now that is a breakfast:

Lunch was uptown at
Casamento's, another place we hadn't been to - we were looking to knock off a lot of the classics on this trip. Eating here takes some effort because first you have to work around their limited hours of operation, and second it's small and if you're there on a weekend expect to queue up for awhile. But waiting on line was pleasant, spoke with some interesting folks and ended up sharing a table with a board member of the NO Jazz Festival. The queue also snakes past the oysters shucking station, manned by the brothers Rogers. Michael works the pile first, selecting the smaller ones for the raw platters. The bigger ones get passed down to his brother, who throws them in a bucket that gets taken to the kitchen for battering and frying. Michael said they just started getting the post BP oil spill harvest in one week before, so we lucked out. The raw oysters were spectacular. Also ordered a plate of the fried, those were somewhat disappointing - too much batter, they paled compared to the beauties I'd just had at Stanley's for breakfast. Glad we went, but no need to rush back here again:


Late afternoon meant time to stop marching and take a seat at a bar. We decided on the
Swizzle Stick, located in the lobby of the Loews Hotel. Not a historic place, but the bar is manned (womanned?) by
Lu Brow, bartendress extraordinaire. Great bartender, very personable and professional. As an aside one great thing about this visit is that everywhere we went the service folk were the old pre-Katrina crews, everyone seems to have come back and the city seems to be thriving. Lu concocted some gin & ginger beer potion for me, and here's a lovely whiskey sour she put together for my wife:

Got back to our hotel, which was hosting three separate wedding parties. Place was festive the whole weekend, lucky for us each wedding hired brass bands for the parade line back and forth to the church and reception. One night we got back in time for the final two encores that they bellowed in the courtyard, unbelievable - only in New Orleans:

Dinner that night was at
Tujagues, second oldest restaurant in NO. And as far as I know, the menu hasn't changed since the 19th century either. The bar is on one side, manned by a guy in his 20's who took a lot of pride in making an excellent Sazerac. He put on the full show, doing the old school thing of spinning the glass in the air to get the absinthe out and everything. I asked him why they didn't have any stools at the bar, and he explained that if you're too drunk to stand up you shouldn't be drinking. The dining room is old and worn but comfortable in lived in way, kind of small holding 20 tables or so. No menu, it's 5 fixed courses with a choice of entree. The soup course was shrimp & mirliton (a local squash), delicious. Chicken Bonne Femme is an off-menu item, but from research I understand that they'll always prepare it if you ask for it. They don't mention it when they run through the four entree choices, so I wondered what all the secrecy was about. But the question was answered when they served it - it's some excellent fried chicken smothered in a pile of good freshly fried potato chips, with literally a handful of raw chopped garlic and parsley tossed on top. Not for the faint of heart, the huge dose of raw garlic would mean lots of dishes being sent back by the unwary. Interesting place in a museum kind of way. Food was decent but certainly no bargain, the tab was a stiff $150 for two with 2 beers and 2 wines:

Early flight meant up and out at sunrise Sunday, stumbling out in a daze after two boozy and dreamy days. God bless New Orleans, there's no other place like it: