I'll post pictures once I figure out how.
AtmosphereThe Kitchen Table was neither in the kitchen nor a completely private room, more like a nook off to the side of the kitchen. That being said, it was very comfortable (albeit a little too warm) and intimate compared to the close tables in the main dining room. We were there for the 6:30pm seating, and we left the restaurant close to 11:30pm, so I would allow 5 hours for the entire meal.
ServiceVery friendly, knowledgeable staff. About 30 people working the dinner shift of which half are front of the house. Each person knew almost everything there is to know about each dish. The demeanor was casual yet professional.
MenuThere were Seven Hors d’Oevres items, and if you consider that one course and the Pressed Duck and Potatoes 2 courses, there were in total 14 courses for the Kitchen Table. Since some of the courses are rather more substantial to something you would get at Alinea, we all left Next extremely full (and more than a little buzzed). The wine pairings are generous and does not stop. I had about 5 glasses of champagne before realizing that I would have to be carted away mid-meal if I kept up the pace. Our intentions were to visit Aviary for a cocktail on a futuristic Bunsen burner afterwards, but no one could muster our way next door after 5 hours of wine pairings.
Hors d'Oeuvres
-Vincent Carre Brut Champagne
This course included everything that yellow truffle experienced, plus two extras. An amuse bouche sized Salmon Boat, which is a pate brisee filled with smoked-salmon mousse; and a boudin blanc (white sausage) of rabbit served on a mini slice of toast. The Egg Custard was triple layers, with white truffles on the bottom and black truffles sprinkled on top, very decadent. It also came independently on a gorgeous small silver platter. My favorites were the anchovy over soft boil quail egg and the richness of the foie in brioche.
Caviare
This was a Kitchen Table Only course, with a massive hunk of Farm Raised Osteria Caviar (from Uruguay? ) to be eaten with amazingly fluffly baby potato pancakes and crème fraiche.
Potage a la Tortue Claire
-Domaine de montbourgeau 'L'Etoile Vin Jaune', Jura 2002
Same as been described- Turtle Consumme. Sous Chef Rene came out and served this delightful dish, very common in early 20th century France. I found it thin but very rich and beautiful. After inquiring what they did with the turtle meat, our waiter mentioned that this course was made with turtle bones that were shipped in fresh to the kitchen; although fresh turtles were considered early on.
Puree Palestine
-Olivier Merlin 'La Roche Vineuse', Macon 2008
This was a Kitchen Table Only course, which was unfortunate because many of the group felt this was one of the best courses of the night. It was a pureed sunchoke (often known as a Jerusalem Artichoke) soup, with hazelnut and a hint of tonka bean. Definitely more substantial than the Turtle Soup, it was velvety smooth and sweet and subtly nutty. Very satisfying. They had considered putting this in the regular dining menu but it lost out to the Turtle Soup (I think because of the popularity of Turtle Soup in that time period).
Filet de Sole Daumont
Same as been described, so I won’t elaborate on this course. Definitely definitely use the bread to soak up the Normande Sauce.
Supremes de Poussin
-Meursault Goutte d'Or Premier Cru, Coche-Bizouard 2005
Our waiter came out with this and said “This is Chicken.” Obviously an understatement, the chicken was butter poached with a perfect sauce. We could see a chef working the line who’s sole responsibility was to cut this piece of chicken into the perfect diamond shape. The concentration and perfection was admirable, despite us relaying the message to Chef Beran that he should get a diamond shaped cookie cutter. The cucumber has been seeded and replaced with a mousse and the skin replaced with perfect tiny slices of pork belly.
Carre d'agneau
-Michel & Stephanie Ogier, Cote-Rotie, Rhone 2003
Kitchen Table Only Course. Tiny perfect onion rings, over sweetbread, over medium rare lamb loin, over a tongue ragu, over duchess potatoes makes this tower of deliciousness worth the price of admission.
Caneton Rouennais a la Presse avec Gratin de Pommes de Terre a la Dauphinoise
-Domaine Brusset 'Les Hauts De Montmirail', Gigondas 2005
Chef Beran comes out and prepares the sauce for the Caneton Rouennaise a la Presse, using the smaller Duck Press that they found via Twitter The larger, black Duck Presse is actually a Sausage Presse (that can fit seven ducks at a time) that they acquired via Ebay. This dish is as amazing as everything you’ve heard about it, but we simply couldn’t finish despite it being family style and just one enormous duck.
Salade Irma
They replaced the giant flower with something smaller. Twenty Seven distinct ingredients goes into making these two bites. I’ve come to realize that tweezers are apparently the most important tool in a kitchen. 20/20 vision helps.
Sorbet Sauternes
Kitchen Table Only Course. Think a Sorbet, made with sweet alcohol. That’s pretty much this dish. You can see Chef Beran freezing the alcohol with Liquid Nitrogen shortly before serving. Tasty and fun.
Bombe Ceylan
Perfect. Rich. Delicate. You know.
Souffle au Chocolat
-Smith Woodhouse, 10 year Tawny Port
Kitchen Table Only Course. Very well made Souffle, albeit by this time we were all so full of food and liquor that this course was mostly forgettable.
Mignardises with tea/coffee
Did I mention we were stuffed?
ConclusionI’ve never been in a Kitchen Table before, but truly felt this was one of the best dining experiences I’ve ever had. Is this Alinea? Course not it’s not supposed to be, but I had more fun at Next. I’ll compare it to some of the very intimate and incredible keiseki meals you can find in the top restaurants in Japan. The precision and execution was impressive given that they’ve been at it for less than a month. Whether I would go back to the Kitchen Table on a new menu is debatable (given my budget), but I’m very happy to have been lucky enough to enjoy it once.